Hello all, can you please help. I don't want to cut an access hole or drop the engine... But can you tell me how to access the pulley and remove the nut to change the fan belt? I've tried everything and would need four triple jointed arms it seems.

Also, how do you find TDC easily so I can adjust the valves?

Thank you in advance.

Ben

First.. the timing marks. On a factory six flywheel there are timing marks already on it. If you don't have a factory flywheel, mark it the next time the engine is out. I did that, including the FE mark for the MFI.

Second, do you have the fan tool? If you do, then lay a blanket on the rear deck lid (or take the deck lid off completely), and lay down. Now you can reach around both sides of the fan housing to change the belt. You have to stack the shims by feel, but it can be done.

Thank you so much. Would I remove the starter to see the timing marks? And how do you recommend turning the engine to get the marks to show?

Sorry for all the newbie questions... It's my first experience with the flat 6.

First, is it a conversion or a "real" six? If it is a conversion using the early 901 flywheel, the marks will probably not line up (front pulley marks vs flywheel marks). The early flywheel is marked for a 2.0L and for whatever reason the later engines 2.2 up, the marks are off (my experience with 5 engines).

2nd, there is a gap between the engine and tranny that the flywheel can be seen, but requires cutting the engine tin and a hole in the rear trunk upper firewall so you can see the split in the case and the flywheel marks. At least this is the case on a CIS engine, not sure about a carbed engine. Not near my car to post an image.

You can also adjust the valves by the "look for the base circle" method. With the valve covers off, you can see the lobe of the cam and it's position. As long as the follower is on the base circle of the cam lobe, you can adjust that valve.

I rotate the engine, in the direction of running, by the alternator nut and pinching the fan belt (spark plugs removed).

Tis far easier to remove the backpad and cut a hole in the firewall to see the crank pulley / fan housing marks and also gives access to the distributor for timing.

And in the end, it is easier to drop the engine to do the above jobs unless you have cut the hole. I have tried mirrors to no avail ... I guess I'm just not that good of a mechanic.

That's my take after building two conversions (2.4L & 2.7L). Your experience may vary.

I now understand why shops get big bucks for doing a valve adjustment / tuneup on a /6. It is pure torture ..........

Changing the fan belt ...... I hope you do your best work by "feel" and have the appropriate fan pulley tool for your engine.

Everyone will have their own method for the fanbelt – this is mine.

Drill a hole in the end of the Porsche C-spanner fan locking tool. Get some steel strip and bend and drill holes in it so that one end will bolt onto the 2 coil mounting studs on the fan housing and the other will bolt to the end of the c-spanner when it’s in position on the fan hub. You can now lock the fan and have both hands free! (Sounds laborious but takes less than a minute to remove the coil and set it up). With the fan locked it’s easy to get a socket to the fan nut just by feel.

On re-assembly you have to set up the shims by feel, but use a thin (thin, thin thin) spot of grease on each one so that they stick together and don’t fall off when you let go to reach for the next one. Set up the locking tool again.

Using this, replacing the fanbelt comes as close to being a breeze as I’ve ever found it. It’s certainly no longer daunting.

There's an easy 3 step procedure to change the fanbelt on a -6 that doesn't require an access hole in the firewall. I found this out after 35 years of ownership!

1. Remove engine from car
2. Change fanbelt
3. Replace engine into car

Seriously, it can be done, but it is mostly by feel. You do need the tool to be able to hold the fan in position while tighening the fan nut.

The timing marks are best observed at the flywheel, but as previously mentioned, the markings imprinted on the later flywheels are not correct for our application (dependind on which engine is being used). It's best to check the position on the crank pulley and mark the TDC and 35 degree spots on the flywheel when the engine is out so you can easily access them in the future.

The hardest thing is to get the correct number of shims under the fan pulley while it's in the car. Beast of a job that is. Beer only after it's finished.

The factory 6 has a view spot where you can see the flywheel from the top rear of the engine.

Thank you all for the advice. I hate to cut the car as it's an original 6 with about 40k original miles and even has the dealer installed 8 track in it. As you can imagine it hasn't been maintained much over the last 40 years, but it sure does look nice.

It needs an exhaust system and I'd like heat exchangers as the ones on it are gone.

Any suggestions on the exhaust?

I have this 1970 914-6, a 1972 with a 3.6 hill climb car with factory race parts (no hills in Louisiana though), a 1973 914 2.0 bilstein car, a 1974 2.0 rust bucket and a 1975 with a big 4 being built for it. I think I have a problem.

Just one word of advise...

Never turn a six backwards. It will jump time and ruin the engine.

And ...