I was wondering what some people here on 914world have in their 914's for keeping out rust.
I want to spray it in the engine compartment, both trunks and the interior floor.

I've heard of Lizard Skin and Silver Rust Encapsulator and Corroless.

thoughts, opinions, facts?

I used the Eastwood products and I think they work great, they are not cheap but they give a great finish to paint over when done properly.
Eastwood Rust Treatment Products

I have used POR15 and silver bullet as a brush on. POR15 has a nice surface finish but silver bullet is easier to apply - no prep work required, just dry and clean surface AND doesn't need any top coat.

Do you mean Rust bullet? I have used rust bullet and I am not impressed. I saw 2 applications that failed. Could have been my prep but for me, it didn't work. I will never use it again. POR is one I have not used but is one that you love or hate. I have heard that it holds better to rust than unrusted steel. This causes problems where rust can creep under the metal that was at first not rusted! I have used a product called"Chassis Saver" so far so good. Not an endorsement! I have only used this sparingly and where I used it, it has held up.

thanks for the replies guys, does anybody have experience with lizard skin or correless?
lizard skin looks like it has to be done by a shop or professional.

i and some others have had horrible experiences with eastwoods rust converter. as a person trained in chemistry i can assure you that stuff they sell is the wrong chemical for what they are doing. I and others (even per eastwoods own website) have had massive rusting under the coating, the acid they use stays active. the rust is deep pitting as if immersed in salt water. if the top coat (and you MUST top coat it) is ever chipped or compromised in any way and moisture gets to teh "rust converter" the acitve acid will respond to that moisture with a deep pitting creeping fast reacting rust, right under the paint! I perform several tests after i had two cars ruined by this product (has to be sand blasted off) The test pieces I did confrimed that teh prosduct when left exposed rusts as rapidly as metal covers with damp ammonium chloride or salt water! even exposure to air will set off the rust. the problem is the product has water in it, they are counting on it drying, but unless you have maybe zero percent humidity , it will never dry enough, then you top coat it and seal in teh active acid. If you did it on a humid day, the failure will happen sooner, if you waited before top coat more the longer you waited, teh worst teh rust as the coating is taking up maoisture from teh air. so in practivce it is impossible to get all the water out . but even if you could, one chip or scrath in the top caot,a dn the rust will take off.

easywood acknowlede they had probelms with this product, I spoke with one of their R and D guys and he acknowledge many complaints. some falilure may not be noted for years after application.

now a word on eastwoodds chassis black, that stuff they had to add stiocker to relable it, the stuff wont dry in any resonible time, so they had to relable the dry time and tell you to put it on real thin. I got some cans without the lable and a second batch with, the paint was horrible, dried slow and was nothing special, *(just over priced)

the word is east wood buys the cheapest chemicals,a dn re-lables them and jack sup the price, real pro- shops do not generally use eastwood paints, eastwood could never match teh R and D expertice of real paint companys such as PPG, or Glaserit or Dupont. Eastwood sells this crap to home doit your selfers, they cant sell that stuff to folks that really know paints.

do not use Eastwood coatings.


Now for a rust converter that does no harm and does seem to work (dispite the bad practice of covering up rust) that produst is made by a professional paint company (SEM) and is called Rust Mort (needs to be top coated) and Rust Seal (has built in primer) these products do work, I have had over 20 years of good expericne with them and the rust has not come back on several cars!


now if you wanting to simply coat teh enigne bay and underside of car and you do not currenlty have rust , then a waxy or simualr removable coating (self heals when scratched) may be what to do.

however if the original paint is decent, and your battery is a sealed type, yoour engien bay should not be a rust concern, even if parked in the rain.

i have done a decent quick clena up of engine bay (engien out for best room to work) with sanding, , wire wheel of rust areas, Rust Mort on rust areas, then follow up with rustoleum primer, then several top coats of the car color (rustoleum) this works well for an engine bay, and many rattle can colors are close enough for the engine bay, this will look better than an undercoat in teh engine bay



what ever you do, you MUST completely degrease the engien bay several times and use the painters grease wax and silicone remover (wont harm the under paint like many other solvents do) you should do this prior to any sanding, so as to not sand grease and oils in the the paints trapping int eh sanding scratches, only to have it cause adhesion probelms later!


POR 15 must be top coated as it is not UV proof, i have found the engine bay to not be shielded enough, light does get in thru the grill and it will discolor the POR15. POR 15 is not as great as they say, very hard, tough to top coat if cured, expensive, and it discolors in sun light. not my first choice, (but miles ahead of EAstwood crap)

good luck

LotusJoe on here had Lizard Skin on his build or a separate topic - look in the garage for it.

Hey John!

I only use rustoleum on deer stands and lawn furniture. I like it for that. You will really be pissed if you ever try to paint auto paint over it, because it will wrinkle like crazy and it won't hold up to any serious cleaners used to remove grease or flush the ac system or the fuel system out. It's got fish oil in it and thats what helps prevent rust from coming back.

, yes I ment rust bullet. I have been watching waaay too much true blood these days - darn werewolfs!!

However, I'm using the Automotive version, which is silver in color. Poor excuse.

How did it fail? I'm using it on mainly clean metal which has a zink coat (hell hole and minor long repair).

I have a hole in the tailgate of my van. I cleaned out the spot and painted it with the silver rust bullet. It rusted within 2 months. I did only give 1 coat. They claim you must use 2 coats. Also painted on a frame that was made to hold a compressor on a truck. Looked nice for 6 months. I painted the trunk of my DD and it still looks good. I am not convinced this is very good stuff. I just won't use it any more. I used Chassis Saver in the channel for the front trunk rubber seal. So far, this has held up well.

I've used Chassis saver but it seemed to flake off over time or if you hit it with a stream of pressurized (not high pressure) water.

I'm picking up my 914 tomorrow (woo hoo!) so I orded a quart of POR-15 so that I can hit any of the exposed rust sections. That should give me some time to decide what rust needs repaired vs. just coated and top-coated.

Speaking of top-coats, I see POR sells at least 2 different black topcoats. They have one that is a gloss black and then they have the Chassis black which I assume is flat. They may also have a semi-gloss.

On a 914, which of these would be appropriate for underneath the car and which would be appropriate in the engine bay ?

Thanks. Bud

I have used Corroseal Rust Converter for about 10 years with good results. I was first exposed to this product in the shipyards, when we had our vessels in for repair and maintenance. I just remove all the heavy scale and apply to the metal. I have painted on top without any issue. This is what I did before I recently painted the 914 I'm restoring.
Link if your interested: http://www.corroseal.com/

Regards,
Joe

I have posted extensively about rust treatment proceedures and products. there is no single product answer. where, how deep...?
do a search

There is no magic paint that if applied, will kill all rust and make the car stronger than before.

To do it right, clean it all the way down, remove ALL the rust, repair the damage, and apply ( at a minimum) self etching primer that is catalyzed to make it hard.