I have installed my second aux air regulator (first one did not function properly) and this one is doing the same thing. here it is. The valve is not closing to cut off the air. I have checked the voltage (over 13) and amps draw (approx 1 amp). I think the coil is heating, but the valve is not closing. The rebuilder at Auto Atlanta acted like a butt when I called and said the second one was not closing. he said it worked when the sent it to me, send it back to him and he would check to and send it back to me or another one if it did not. Does anyone know what kind of amperage these things normally draw. Is my problem with the regulator or with me computer/

Thanks for the help. at this point I just want to by pass it and get what ever refund I can get from auto atlanta, which in there opinion should be nothing

If it's got voltage and drawing current, electrically it's fine. That is a common "failure" you are having. Best way is to soak the inside of it with PB blaster or kroil overnight. They just get sticky from years of crap in them.

This one was rebuilt by Auto Atlanta and should not have any gunk build up in it. Should I still try soaking the top part in kroil.

The computer isn't involved. 12V with the key on, nothing else. I have yet to have a good experience with a "rebuilt" AAR, and I've tried several sources.

The Cap'n

When I bench test the AAR, it will close in less than 2 minutes. As stated, PB Blaster works pretty good on AARs. I like to hold the AAR and watch it close...

Give it a shot of PB or what ever you use and let it sit overnight. Connect it to a 12V source and time it. It should close in less the 3 minutes. If it doesn't close call George. He will see it it gets corrected. He's been pretty cooperative lately. I'm sure he would like to know if his rebuilder is being proactive. If it's good I would bet it just got sticky from sitting on the shelf.

After applying voltage, if the heater coil is working, it will get HOT, but that doesn't mean the valve is closing.

I bench test them and blow thru them. After they get HOT it will burn your lips if you aren't careful.

How much did it cost to get it rebuilt . Mine closes fine but does not open all the way at ambient temp. I put it in the freezer and it opend wide as a gate . Should it be wide open when its warm out?

At ambient temp, mine open 1/3 to 1/2; if put into the freezer, opens about 2/3...

They charge 159.50 for one with core exchange. Which is way to much if it is not perfect when you install it

They charge 159.50 for one with core exchange. Which is way to much if it is not perfect when you install it

Keep sending it back until you get one that works right.

Are you sure it is grounding as it should? If it is not grounding, and it is getting 12V it will not work.

The base is solidly screwed to the mounting . Isn't that enough. If I am showing amps being drawn? The draw is about 1 am. is that corrrect?

When you say a shot do you mean just shot some (Kroil) into the vacuum opennings of the unit. What is to prevent the lubricant from flowing down to the coil and causeing a short or fire when it is heated

Mine does not look like what you have pictured.

Mines from a 1.8, works the same though. When you bench test, are you connecting a + and - to the connectors on the AAR ?

I hosed the crap out of mine, just drain the excess out and the rest will just burn off. Won't hurt a thing.

Have you checked out Brad Landers site? It has all the values your looking for. If the bottom gets warm after a few mins of current then the heater part is functioning. Is it trash on the inside and not sealing?????I don't know. Even if the heater function is not working the engine heat will trigger it; just later than if the heater element was working. Remember that it is 2 stage. All the info you need is at his site. We're some lucky S.O.B.'s that Brad did all this research for us. You might as well strat memorizing it all now.

Do you have a url for Brad Landers Site?

Thank you everyone. i will hit it with a bunch of Kroil and hope for the best.

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/

I merged your two duplicate threads and deleted the extra duplicate post afterward. This way all of the replies to both threads are no in this one thread.

1st ... Jim imaged a 1.8L L-Jet Aux Air Valve. It can be made to work on a D-Jet system, but requires a power wire and ground wire. Functionality is the same, operation is slightly different.

2nd ... The D-Jet Aux Air Valve is grounded and the body is the ground. One power wire is the only hookup (as you have figured out)

3rd ... The D-Jet one should close completely. When I "blow test" a good one, lots of air passes when cold; When hot it completely shuts off the air. The rotating valve can get stuck and not operate correctly. Filling the top portion with PB Blaster or cleaning with Carb Cleaner may free it up. Do this procedure cold as you don't want to start a fire on the car.

4th ... I bench test them prior to installation.

5th ... It can be removed or the lines plugged with a ball bearing to negate any air leakage. It is only functional for fast idle on cold start up. If you don't mind sitting in the car with your foot on the loud pedal to keep the car idling when cold, the car will run fine without it in the circuit.

6th ... "Rebuilding" is a misnomer. Making it functional is all they can do. The heater element can be repaired (or so they say), but is not replaceable. The rotating valve can only be cleaned so it functions.

7th ... supposedly they can be disassembled. I've never tried to do it as I don't have a proper tool to crimp the top portion to the bottom portion, not do I have a tool to properly spread the crimp for disassembly.

that's it for me.

I have disassembled mine to clean it up and get it working again; it's not too hard, but I would not mess with the one from AA. I must say that $159.50 is way expensive for the valve especially for the hassles you are having and for a part that you don't really need as the valve as it is for cold start.

What is the problem you are having with the car? Do you have the valve plumbed correctly (from the air filter to the valve to the plenum)?

George from AA often posts here. I'd get his attention on this, as owner he will be able to take responsibility for the defective part that was sold.

if it wont function, he needs to know about it. If you paid via credit card, and have not yet b=payed the bill, contact the credit company and tell them you want to disput the AA charges becuase the part is not working. this iwll get them off you back for payment and put the ball back in AA's court since they wont get paid until the dispute is settled and you will NOT be charged any interest nor penalties untilthe dispute is reviewed and resolved. it should be a simple win for you. that will promt the seller to either take back the defective part and send you a replacement (dont cancel the dispute until you know you have a working valve in your possesion) or if AA fails to make right, you will owe nothing ont eh credit card, and you can then tell AA if they want the bad part back, they shouyld send yo a prepaid package to ship it back in.

No reason at all you have to put up with a "butt" acting employee, your incontrol again once you start the credit card dispute process, That gets results.

I'd retitle you post to include the words Auto Atlanta just to gets georges attention on this issue, or you could PM him.

the world awaits AAs reply.

Okay, we soaked it with Kroil for two days and then tried to get it to work again.. Still heats up, but no valve action. So today i have packaged it up with a nice letter to Sean the rebuilder at Automobile Atlanta and will fax and mail a copy to George Hussey on Tuesday.

This is really a hastle. If I known what I know no about the purpose of this valve I would have done what I am having to do. Plug the two vacuum tubes and move on without it. And yes, it is plugged into the proper places, and yes I have good ground and more than anything I want to say thank you for the responses. Oh and yes 159.50 out of pocket sucks when you are on a very closer budget.

I replaced it because in the special 914 manual that George put out it says, If the idle does not return to normal when you take your foot off the gas after the engine heats up you have a bad Auxiliary Air Regulator. So that is what happened. I could say lots of more stuff, but I made the bed and now I have to sleep on it.

so your being refunded your money, right?