Hey Guys,

I'm stumped! I helped a friend with his 1.7L powered 914.

The first thing I did was replace the pushrod tubes seals, they were leaking all over the place. When changing the seals, I didn't reset valve clearances but was very careful to
reinstall the rocker assemblies carefully. Upon start up, the engine ran smoothly with no
unusual valve noise.

On the way driving home, my friend said the engine suddenly begain reving to 3000 rpm
whenever he pushed the clutch in at lights or when shiftinig. The next day I found that the
clutch cable had not gotton intertwined with the accellerator cable. I found the intake manifold boots that connect to the intake runners were cracked and had several tears. His
car never ran too smoothly in the first place so I decided to pull the entire carb. and intakes.
I rebuilt a progressive carb. of mine to exchange with his, replaced the runner boots, the carb. base gasket and both runners to heads gaskets. I am quite sure that there are no
intake leaks from these newly gasketed places. I preset the carb mixture control one turn
out, set the throttle stop full back to just touching the stop and fired it off.

It started and ran smoothly and quickly right up to 3000 rpm with the throttle closed. What the heck has gone wrong here? I noticed that when I put a small twist to the throttle shaft, it would only drop the rpm by a couple of hundred rpms, max.

I don't think it is the carb. because the high rpm problem was present with the previous carb.

Could I have done something when removing and replacing the valve assemblies, in turn, when I replaced the push rod tube seals?

Any suggestions from the real experienced engine guys here? I would certainly appreciate
it.

Phil

I would suggest you check timming...that can have major effect on idle and carb adjustment. Do you have a vacuum advance? DH

Kargeek,

While doing the work I described, I also pulled the 009 dizzy and replaced it with
one of my used ones that seemed to have no beariing play, better than what was
in there. I also gaped and installed new plugs and points. When reinstalling the dizzy at TDC on
the compression stroke of # 1 Cyl, I noticed that the dizzy drive was lined up way off
the 12 degrees from car longitudinal position. So I set static timing 5 degrees BTDC,
which put the number one segment on the dizzy cap. for plug # 1 pointing about
midway between the carb. and the oil filler.

Anyway, throttle response is sharp and agressive when the throttle is snapped above
the 3000 rpm base line. I am quite sure that the timing is close on. Besides, the previous
carb. and dizzy firstly exhibited the 3000 rpm idle.

Phil

Phil,

I can't imagine that the problem is with the rockers or pushrod tubes, though I hope you got the rockers back into the original places.

Have you checked the entire linkage to make sure something is not bunched up or binding? Have you pulled the carpet around the pedal cluster?

The first thing I would do is to remove the throttle cable from the carb and start the car. Does it idle normally with the cable disconnected? If so, you know the problem is between pedal and carb.

What condition is your pedal cluster in? Are the original ~30 year old bushings cracked or binding up? Rebuilding a pedal cluster is a cheap and easy job for a Saturday afternoon and a six pack.

-Rusty