Full Version: manifold gaskets for weber carbs
I'm being told by my mechanic that the reason for my continued popping /backfire is a vacum leak where the carb manifold meets the engine. He replaced the gaskets when the carbs were rebuilt two weeks ago but already have leak. He's suggesting that there are special gaskets that don't compress and contain paper or something? Does this ring true to anyone or am I getting snowed? Additionally, he's had the car since last Friday and still has yet to locate the gaskets as they're not readily available
the local VW shop near me had every type of gasket I could think of for almost every type of carb, readily in stock when I rebuilt mine
QUOTE(biosurfer1 @ Sep 8 2010, 12:55 PM) 
the local VW shop near me had every type of gasket I could think of for almost every type of carb, readily in stock when I rebuilt mine
tx. i may try calling another 914 shop i know and see if thye have anything in stock.
Have they ever heard of a non-hardening gasket compound?
Popular names include Hylomar, Permatex, Curil, etc.
It sounds like the guy prefers running into problems rather than solving them.
Popular names include Hylomar, Permatex, Curil, etc.
It sounds like the guy prefers running into problems rather than solving them.
Last set of carbs I used the stock FI plastic spaced gaskets. Shoot, worked perfect, $12 for both.
Not rocket science.
Not trying to be a dweeb, just saying.
Not rocket science.
Not trying to be a dweeb, just saying.
If I remember correctly the engine you have is a four cylinder? If that is the case you have quite a few places where you can get vacuum leaks. I would suggest checking all of them yourself as your mechanic sounds a little dippy??!! From the bottom up:
- Intake manifold to head joint which uses a gasket and/or a phenolic spacer. In any case, check the intake manifold with a straight edge as they will warp due to over tightening the nuts. If the intake is warped, you can flatten it with a very large flat file and I bought one many years ago that was 3 inches wide and about 16 inches long.
- If there is a spacer there, get new ones as they get crushed and this causes the intake manifold to get warp. Count the gaskets used as there must be one at each sealing surface so you'll need new ones.
- If the spacer is on top of the manifold, get new ones anyways and make sure to use new gaskets here.
- Check the carb to manifold top joint as the manifold can warp on top and the carb bottom can be damaged or also warped. Make sure to use new gaskets here also.
The gaskets should be the correct thickness and material composition. I would try Pierce Manifolds in Gilroy CA as they are the Weber experts and can tell you exactly what you'll need. You can use sealer, but if it gets sucked into the intake system as it should be non hardening, as noted, the leak(s) will come back in time. Good luck
- Intake manifold to head joint which uses a gasket and/or a phenolic spacer. In any case, check the intake manifold with a straight edge as they will warp due to over tightening the nuts. If the intake is warped, you can flatten it with a very large flat file and I bought one many years ago that was 3 inches wide and about 16 inches long.
- If there is a spacer there, get new ones as they get crushed and this causes the intake manifold to get warp. Count the gaskets used as there must be one at each sealing surface so you'll need new ones.
- If the spacer is on top of the manifold, get new ones anyways and make sure to use new gaskets here.
- Check the carb to manifold top joint as the manifold can warp on top and the carb bottom can be damaged or also warped. Make sure to use new gaskets here also.
The gaskets should be the correct thickness and material composition. I would try Pierce Manifolds in Gilroy CA as they are the Weber experts and can tell you exactly what you'll need. You can use sealer, but if it gets sucked into the intake system as it should be non hardening, as noted, the leak(s) will come back in time. Good luck
QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Sep 8 2010, 02:53 PM)
Last set of carbs I used the stock FI plastic spaced gaskets. Shoot, worked perfect, $12 for both.
The Stock FI gaskets work great and help prevent heat transfer from the heads to the carbs ...
![popcorn[1].gif](http://www.914world.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
Andy
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Sep 8 2010, 02:26 PM)
QUOTE(Root_Werks @ Sep 8 2010, 02:53 PM)
Last set of carbs I used the stock FI plastic spaced gaskets. Shoot, worked perfect, $12 for both.
The Stock FI gaskets work great and help prevent heat transfer from the heads to the carbs ...
AndyJust what I was afraid of...he's either clueless or bigtime going to school on my car (maybe both). Good news is that this fix is on him...at least he said it was.
QUOTE(john rogers @ Sep 8 2010, 02:18 PM)
If I remember correctly the engine you have is a four cylinder? If that is the case you have quite a few places where you can get vacuum leaks. I would suggest checking all of them yourself as your mechanic sounds a little dippy??!! From the bottom up:
- Intake manifold to head joint which uses a gasket and/or a phenolic spacer. In any case, check the intake manifold with a straight edge as they will warp due to over tightening the nuts. If the intake is warped, you can flatten it with a very large flat file and I bought one many years ago that was 3 inches wide and about 16 inches long.
- If there is a spacer there, get new ones as they get crushed and this causes the intake manifold to get warp. Count the gaskets used as there must be one at each sealing surface so you'll need new ones.
- If the spacer is on top of the manifold, get new ones anyways and make sure to use new gaskets here.
- Check the carb to manifold top joint as the manifold can warp on top and the carb bottom can be damaged or also warped. Make sure to use new gaskets here also.
The gaskets should be the correct thickness and material composition. I would try Pierce Manifolds in Gilroy CA as they are the Weber experts and can tell you exactly what you'll need. You can use sealer, but if it gets sucked into the intake system as it should be non hardening, as noted, the leak(s) will come back in time. Good luck
He feels he's identified the leak and is certain its at the intake manifold
Car in his shop w/ carbs off at this point. I'll have to play along while he stumbles along for the fix 
tx for feedback - i'm better armed with questions when he starts his bull(^%*
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