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phillstek
My car is at the painter getting a full bare metal respray and I want to replace the bonnet and boot lids with grp ones. Any suggestions for which ones to go for?

I want to use the original latches as opposed to pins.

Thanks,

Phil
dr914@autoatlanta.com
metal metal or metal. Fiberglass is only for racing where one wants to suffer for the sake of light weight

QUOTE(phillstek @ Sep 10 2010, 03:14 PM) *

My car is at the painter getting a full bare metal respray and I want to replace the bonnet and boot lids with grp ones. Any suggestions for which ones to go for?

I want to use the original latches as opposed to pins.

Thanks,

Phil

Tom_T
QUOTE(phillstek @ Sep 10 2010, 03:14 PM) *

I want to use the original latches as opposed to pins.


IIRC there are none on which you can use the latches & springs, & I'd think the spring pressures would tear them up. All factory or M471 type racers had pins at front & straps at rear only - due to the relative flimsiness of the FG/GRP/etc. racing lids.

I'd follow George's advice & stick with the steel lids, which I've seen some folks drill holes in the underside frames to reduce weight, but that too may induce rust.
campbellcj
The Getty lids are very nice quality and can use the stock hinges and latches; however, I agree they may not like the stock-strength springs. On mine I've ditched the latches and springs and I use pins/straps, but the mount points for the latches are there.
Mike Bellis
I had an A.I.R. rear lid with duck tail. It uses the original latch and hinges. It is heavy duty and weighs almost as much as the steel lid.
carr914
Getty Designs
sean_v8_914
Jeff at QRS in Hemet CA. he sells on ebay. he can make a lid to suit your needs...thin for racing or hticker for street rigidity and a nicer paint finish
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