BMW E21 320i NEW ATE FRONT BRAKE CALIPERS PAIR: eBay Motors (item 170441237666 end time Sep-30-10 22:50:10 PDT)

i keep reading tech articles that have part #'s but they don't all match. I was thinking that some may be loaded brakes - and some may not - I want to buy a pair then add racing pads - so I need them 1/2 Loaded ????? what does loaded mean -what other words do parts places use for not-loaded ??? are there 3 options when it come to buying calipers ???? thanks for help - Scott in Savannah

I am building a race car that will spend 7 to 24 hours in a row running tracks in the Southeast USA - because of the budget for the racing series - I cant step up to any 911 calipers - The car has a adj proportioning valve in it already - 914's fronts in the rear - now I am looking for the calipers that will bolt up to the 1970 stock uprights I have ---- thanks

I believe these are the correct ones. The way to verify is to make sure they fit the 320i without vented front rotors.

Now, why are you going to the 320i front calipers? To me they only give you a larger pad, but little more.

I did it about 5 yrs ago as I stumbled onto a pair and figured I'd try them out and the work fine.

320 calipers don't just bolt in. They require machining the mounting ears to center the pads. The pads also ride slightly high and as I understand require a pad modification to work. Do a seach here I know this has been discussed.

you should not run bmw front and 914 fronts as rear. it will creat e a fluid volume mis-match that a prop valve may not solve. what will you gain with this set up? it will only make the pedal travel short, stiff and harder to modulate. if you are using a stock 17mm master, the pedal will go low before bite. it will also require a 19mm MC swap. for endurance racing the next improvement should be a vented rotor.

Rick, the 320i calipers have the proper spacing on the early spindles (69-72) but require machining on the later spindles.
They do ride a little high, but require no pad mod to fit. They do require a backing plate (if you have one) mod to fit.

Sean, I agree with the vented rotor as a better upgrade, but where can you find them for 4 bolt rotors?

Too bad your proportioning valve doesn't work backward. With 42mm pistons in the rear, that's exactly what you'll need.

-or-

Get 911 rear M-Calipers and take the spacers out and use the fasteners from your 914 front calipers to put them back together (hoping that they are early 914 fronts... because the later ones won't work)

With the 911 rears you will have 38mm pistons in the rear which is a perfect bias balance for the 48 pistons you're installing up front. Same pad size (same basic casting too) as the 914 fronts, just a optimum bias match.

Also... cryo your rotors because the 320 calipers will warp them fairly quickly in a racing situation.

Brakes work by converting rotational energy into HEAT. Calipers only provide the clamping force. The stock 914 caliper will create all the heat you need to destroy the stock heat sink, the stock disc. If you want to increase heat storage and dissipation of a brake system you need a bigger heat sink, larger vented rotors. If you can't afford to upgrade the rotors, why waste the budget on bigger, heavier calipers that will not improve anything?

The term loaded means they have new pads included. My opinion? This is not an upgrade. Modified M's is the way to go.

I have seen a set of these BMW calipers badly modified for a 914. Instead of machining off the needed amount they ground it off with a grinder. The calipers wouldn't square up with the rotor.

Stock in good service condition is fine for most of us, bigger motor? think about 'upgrading' but do it right.

Brembos with the spacer removed would bold right up to a 1970 strut... 4lbs 6 oz. Same pad as the BMW boat anchors.

Hey those beautiful Brembo calipers look familiar. ...and I love them. Added these I after I went the BMW route. I could've saved money by doing it right the first time.


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Where did you get those rotors??

-- brett

Parts Heaven street swap meet. They are the billet hubs with 911SC rotors like these Tire Rack.

Sorry for the high jack.

What about for a 1974 strut?

Bottom line is, I don't generally recommend these or the BMW calipers for solid rotors. If you're looking to go Michaels route (above) then they bolt right up to a later strut. That would be the very best. Vented rotors and the larger pad. Now... what to do with the rears?

For this guy, building a race car, a cryo'd rotor should hold up. 911 rear calipers without the spacers would be the solution on the rear.

The offset is wrong for later struts. You'd have to mill the mounting ears just like the BMW mod.

bigger pads and calipers (ala BMW) wont help get rid of braking heat cause the disc is still the same small unvented one. Id save your money and simply buy some porterfeld front racing pads, you will be able to lock up the front with minimal peddle pressure, there is no need for any more than that unless you invest in a larger heat disapating disc (ie vented)

my porterfeld racing front pads ar e great on the stock disc, direct fit on the stock 914 calipers, no monkey bussiness, just great stopping.

unless you go with new higher heat disapating discs, the bmw upgrade is really not an upgrade.

just buy some porterfeld racing pads and be done with your brakeing worries until your ready to move up to bigger discs.

$59.95... best and cheapest "upgrade" for 914 brakes. Spend thy money elsewhere (like sticky tires and great shocks).