looks like I am going to have to replace the rear wheel bearings .The right rear is intermittenly squeeling.
Any pointers out there as far as the procedure?
any hidden things I kneed to know?
Does the caliper come off like any of the modern types?
any special tools ie wrenches-pullers?
Will the bearing come wright out when I get to it?
About how long will it take I have been abel to do a lot on the car myself.
Thanks for all the help.

There are several threads on changing them. I documented mine a few years ago. I'll look for it.

This job can be a little bit of a challenge. You need a 32 mm deep socket and a good breaker bar to remove the axle nut. I have broken several breaker bars removing this nut. A GOOD impact wrench is very helpful. Next the CV's must come off. The stub axle and drive shaft must be driven out. This too can be difficult. You must then drive out the old bearing. this will require a lot of force. The bearing will probably come apart. Clean the housing and the new bearing can be pressed in. This will require something with a screw and a plate. Not a good idea to hammer this in place. I think special tools are a must. Install the stub Axle and connect the CV. The Axle nut is torqued to over 200 LBS.

I don't mean to scare you but this is what you are up against. If you do not feel up to this' take it to a shop somewhere.

The bearings will get pulled out by either a home made threaded rod type puller, or by a specialty tool like the SIR bearing puller. The same tools will be used to press in the new frozen/cold bearings. The proccess can be accomplished without removing the trailing arms. I bought the tool set from Pelican because I needed to remove and save my good bearings for the project at hand. In your case the bearings are going to get tossed, so a home made setup could work just fine. Plug in a search, and you'll find all the juicy details for the procedure.

In 37 years of working on Porsches and other cars using this bearing design, I've never been able to reuse a bearing pulled from it's installed position. They ALWAYS come apart unless the hub is worn out, and they're bad if that has happened.

The Cap'n

In 37 years of working on Porsches and other cars using this bearing design, I've never been able to reuse a bearing pulled from it's installed position. They ALWAYS come apart unless the hub is worn out, and they're bad if that has happened.

The Cap'n
[/quote]

You are correct,
I mispoke, I used the puller in my case(for the project at hand) to remove the wheel flange and re-use the bearings.
We can always count on you Krusty...

Click to view attachment

I made this slide hammer to remove mine.

Click to view attachment

The hardest part will be removing the axle nut. I had a local welding shop take an 8ft. piece of angle iron notch one side to create a bend that could clear the fender and weld on my socket. Do yourself a favor and try to make leverage work for you on that point. The rest is fairly straightforward, also remember to put the bearings in the freezer overnight before installing them.

Good Luck!

There's a few video's here...

http://www.pmbperformance.com/videos.html

sounds like its doabel in the garage,a few hard steps then pretty straight forward.
Now I just need to be sure the sound is the bearing and not something else.I did seek out other threads about squeeling sounds and have pretty much ruled out things like altanater and trans and brakes.
I guess wheel bearings can squeel when going bad.I always thought they made a grinding sound and felt rough when rotating the wheel.
thanks

[quote name='okieflyr' date='Sep 12 2010, 05:42 PM' post='1369640']
In 37 years of working on Porsches and other cars using this bearing design, I've never been able to reuse a bearing pulled from it's installed position. They ALWAYS come apart unless the hub is worn out, and they're bad if that has happened.

The Cap'n
[/quote]

You are correct,
I mispoke, I used the puller in my case(for the project at hand) to remove the wheel flange and re-use the bearings.
We can always count on you Krusty...
[/quote]

Removing the flange takes the outer portion of the inner race off with it, rendering the bearing junk. If it doesn't do that, the flange (we call it the hub) is damaged and shouldn't be used.

The Cap'n

these bearings are not meant to be reused. I have ways of slowly pressing out hubs etc. and I still would not reuse a rear bearing.

Yep, usually balls everywhere. Mine went super easy really. Axel shaft puller for a FWD car, freezer, a little heat, and about 10 pairs of gloves.

So, what's the average shop rate to replace a rear wheel bearing? I have a squealing one right now. A high pitched constant squeal that changes pitch with speed. No grinding noise yet. I'm going to pull the wheel tomorrow and see how it feels when spinning. How far would you drive on the squeal before it turns into a real problem?

I watched Eric's videos and it's not for the faint of heart. More like something that could turn the car into a jack stand momma.

Be prepared for a wide range of prices on this one.

Take a look at this thread for estimates on one phase of that project:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=106198&hl=

I had the right rear bearing replaced on my 914-6 back in February at a local motorsports shop. The bill was $273.00 and I supplied the bearing. They billed me for 2.5 hours of labor.

The right one's the easier one. 2.5 hours is unconscionable. I can see 1.5 if you've never done one, and an hour for someone with my experience, but NOT 2.5. $109.20/hr? Odd number, methinks. Makes it hard to break it up into tenths, or quarters, or "time units" ...............

The Cap'n

Their rate was $98.00 an hour.
The bill shows they sand blasted and painted various pieces of hardware and brackets plus shop supplies and 7% tax.

I believe the nut is a 30mm instead of 32mm.
Slightly off topic, but the dealer wanted $366.00 + parts to replace the right front wheel bearing/hub on my 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Part was $79.00 and I did it in an hour at home. $366.00, GRRR, I hate dealers and they have all the special tools to make it easy! Sorry.
Tom