Hi All, I need to ask a question;
What grade of bolt do I need to hang my 914 2.0 complete w/ heat exchangers on my new engine stand?
To me, I'm thinking about building a support post. That's a lot of $hit hanging out there

Is the engine stand one for those 500+ pound chevys and fords? It'll hold your VW engine just fine. If you're nervous, get grade eight bolts. Never had a problem with grade 5.

I can never remember the properties of grade 5 and 8 and the differences. Shear, blah blah, and more schtuff, ME crap. We have enough of those types around here that I'm sure you'll get a definitive answer sooner or later.

You need at least 5. But either should work just fine. My 2.0/6 is hangin on grade 8's (and has been for the last year).

What are we talking about? I see apples and oranges being compared.


Metric bolts have a two or three digit grading system with a decimal place (i.e. 8.8, 9.8, 12.9, etc)

SAE (english) bolts use totally seperate grading systems. (yes there are a few). A more familiar Grade 5 SAE bolt is approximately equivalent to a metric grade 8.8 and a Grade 8 SAE bolt is somewhere between a metric 9.8 and a 12.9.

Then there are the structural bolts ASTM A325, ASTM A425.

As a general rule, the higher the grade number, the harder the bolt (Higher Yield strength and higher Tensile strength). This also can make the fastener more brittle.


To answer your question, any quality fasteners of the appropriate size will be of sufficient strength to support your engine while it is on a proper stand.


(Be aware of counterfit Chineese fasteners. There are unfortunately unscrupulous manufacturers that will incorrectly mark bolts and nuts with incorrect markings) To be sure, watch out for big chain store type hardware stores. If you can, go to a fastener distributor to insure you are getting quality non-counterfit fasteners.

It's more the stand than the bolts.
Most metric hardware is high-grade (8.8+) and will hold a heck of a lot of weight. I've hung a full dressed T4 without exchangers on my stand many a time, if you push down and let go of the nose of the engine it goes

I've done this with hundreds of T1 & 4 engines over the years, but once the tin is on it's off of the stand anyways.





I've seen some of this crap, I use Bradfasco (a fastener distributor) for all my stuff, costs more but I've never had any problems.

For the few cents difference in price, just get the highest grade you can. For an extra 50 cents you won't ever worry about it again. Besides, if you are like most of us, you'll probably use it more than once.