I'm having a hard time viewing threads in this forum, but I know this has been covered before. I have a 1975 914 that still has original FI system, but the airbox is bad, and some of the wiring isn't correct.

I've had it running, but it has problems with the temp changes so I'd like to do away with it all and go to dual carbs.

I live in rural Nevada, so there are no emission controls or inspections, an offroad kit would be just fine.

My questions: I see kits offered on ebay for under $300. Are they any good? Is there a cheaper better place to look? Is it worth looking for a used set? I'd like a complete kit that will just bolt on.

Thanks a bunch!

This is going to be my winter project along with an old pickup, I'm looking forward to it!

Which engine??

One thing that makes a carb conversion so in depth would be the need to change the cam. As said may times on this forum a camshaft change is a must to get the full effect on a dual carb swap.

It is the 1.8L engine. I'm really just looking for the most affordable way to get it back on the road. Carbs seemed like the way to go since that is something I'm quite comfortable working on. Also, since a new air flow meter is about $200, the cost is similar.

What would you folks suggest? Figure out the fuel injection problem, or perhaps even a single carb?

thanks again.

Firgure out the FI problem.

Single carb isnt going to solve anything it will just make it worse.

the worse of 2 evil's......no jive

if I remember from when I was carb shopping the kits that are around $300 are the 36mm mostly... single carb for each side.

The 40's seem like it would work better, thats what I got.

afford able well =yes if some one is giveing a way a carb it is free, but thet dont meka them better anfd false economy un less you consider you need a new fuel pump also for carb. fuel mpg likely will go down, resale of car will drop more than what you save with a free carb verse a new /used air box or what ever to fix right
carb really needs diferent cam shaft to run best. cam is made for FI. FI is more drivable and once fixed is more maintance free than carb

discribe symptoms of fi failure and see if we all can be of help if youwant to truy to fix it, me I no d-jet more than l-jet but htere is plenyt of l jet exprets here also to ansewr all to fix you car.

good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!91491491494914914914914

Here's some...

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/1977530117.html

........I,m NOT buying into the ...you must change your camshaft as some one suggested.You stated you just want it running decent, not performance...and with a little fiddling with jet sizes and venturis sizes you can get it sorted out...Dual carbs would be best overall.

Dual 40's and header's/muffler made a world of difference in my stock 1.8.

I was collecting items for my 2056 build and I was amazed at what a different car that I had once I made it flow.

So I don't really believe you have to change the cam either BUT would suggest opening up the exhaust.

Good Luck....Ken

I know there are tons of opinions, but I was once in your position and I went the "affordable" carb route, then for YEARS I wished I had just fixed the FI.

Then I put the FI back and am SO MUCH Happier.

Sure, if I were building a bigger and more powerful engine, I'd explore the possibilities, BUT I'd go with the FI, even if you have to spend a little more.

BTW, lots of used parts available, and the Bosch FI and Haynes book tell you how to test each one.

Then again, this is JUST an opinion.

If you do go with the carbs, I'd go with dual single throat carbs over a progressive single carb, IF you are not going dual 2 barrels.

I hope this helps.

Cheap carb conversion? Get a pair of FI intake runners and the collector, weld on a baseplate for a 2 barrel carb, Plumb the lines, and the throttle cable, Get a faccet fuel pump for $50, throw on a cleaner and drive.

Costs:

FI runners/collector: $20

2 barrel carb: $75 ebay/ pick n pull

Fuel pump: $50

Air cleaner: $20

Misc: 25

Total: $190

This assumes you dont have 1/2 these parts lying in your garage somewhere... For instance the runners, or the fuel pump, or air cleaners, or even the carb (any freaking carb would work in the right CFM range...). For instance I could probably do this for the cost of a carb in my garage to get me running (If I was 4 cyl..)



PS, My best guess is you would kill about 40HP and quite a bit of drivability (You would probably have to swap jets, I'd go for a holley for that reason).

Needless to say, you could easily do that in a weekend to get you running while you tackle getting rebuild parts for your fuel injection or what not. Personally I'd do it to say I did it, but I wouldnt run it for long.

Run away from this option. Go with a set of used Weber IDF40s to get the biggest bang for the buck.

Being a 1.8L I wouldn't put much money into making it run better other than fix the FI or go with the IDF40s.

The 1.8L is a turd compared to a decent, factory type 2L. I've had both and the 2L transforms the car into something that accelerates pretty good. The 1.8L just goes faster as you go through the gears.

Spend as little as possible on this 1.8L then look for a good, used 2L with either dual Webers or FI and do a swap.

I've done several carb conversions and drove a carbed 1.8 to work for years. I liked the 40's but I know that the 36's will work good. You don't need to change the camshaft. The only thing I would change would to look for 40's with electric choke's

I had a 1.8l 914, with carbs, and a race header. Ran ok. Fun, etc. But, I changed to a 2.0l with FI. What a difference. Faster, and better to drive than the carb'd 1.8l.

If you are going to invest money, go for the 2.0l.

-- brett