Anyone who wants to run a plugged Type one 30mm pump with a Berg. Raby (or equivalent) FF cover, so that you can use a remote filter adaptor, oil T-stat, and cooler.
Gets rid of restrictive sandwich adaptors and the stock filter mount. More flow means better oil pressure for running those long lines to a front mounted cooler. Using a Gene Berg pressure relief cover (std cover shown) means you never have to worry about cooler blowouts even on the coldest mornings.
Fully gusseted, stronger than stock, bead blasted and painted black (the yellow was to make it show up in the pic) or raw so you can powder coat it.

Synthesisdv (David R) should have the first one in his hands by the end of this week.

Will only work with the 30mm (or larger) pump.

$45. (USD) + core, includes return postage. ($25. core charge) Stock filter mount delete plate an extra $5.


PM me for shipping details

mark,

do you have a diagram showing the new oil path with this setup compared to the original way??

I'm not too sure what is doing what, and I'd think I am not alone (or I hope so, LOL)

whats involved in running a type 1 pump..... i need one ( ive heard mellings leak) ut dont need the full flow

Cool, but you better watch it.. This is an "advertisement" and you are gonna get spanked by Lmcchesney!

To use a Type I pump you MUST:

-Have the proper pump (it will need some internal mods to be 100% compatible with the TIV camshaft engagement.

-Have a modified cam gear (stock ofr aftermarket require machining)

-if you want to run full flow like this you must also drill and tap your case for the oil to re-enter the case in the main oil galley.

I do this all the time, and pretty much perfected the machining and pump modifications, and have all the blueprints for it. When you do this I have a special blockoff for the factory filter housing, and 1/4 of all the factory restrictions in the oiling system are removed. The factory pressure reliefs still work just fine, however.

On my updated site there will be very detailed instructions on how to do this the same way that I do. The benefits from this are astounding, its the best, and cheapest way to move the oil inside the TIV engine- proven.

I replaced a centerflo pump that cost 230 bucks with one of these in the F prod car and the oil pressure went up 15 PSI and never drops below 30 pounds even in the hardest left hand sweeper.

Mark, thats a nice little modification.... I'll be building synthesis' engine now so we'll get to see it. It will also work with my pump cover. I have my own and don't use Gene Berg covers anymore..... Mine are Billet aluminum

BTW, In haven't used a stock TIV pump since 1992

mark, i didn't know you went to work for berg . thanks for the info.

kevin

uh oh! did jake advertise his billet AL pump cover

Nope, because he don't sell them......LOL :finger2:

lol.....

Just come on those dam engines that cost too much money.... Just like the Billet dizzy clamps!

Jake, I didn't realize you made your own covers now.
Jake's cover is on the list. I only said Berg because I know it clears everything, things are still tight though.

I totally forgot about a stock filter delete plate, I will include one and a gasket for an extra $5.

Yep you must tap the case for a return line (see pic) and like Jake said this will have way better flow than stock.

so you block off the stock oil cooler, and filter? so bigger pum pushes oil through a filter (where do you mount it?) and to a front oil cooler and back again to the case?

Leave the stock cooler, just omit the cheesy filter mount. The oil pump must be "plugged" for this to work correctly as well if you are doing true full flow.

You would have to use a remote filter adaptor, that you would mount to the firewall somewhere (see pic). Then you can run the line to the T-stat, aux. cooler and back to the fitting I pointed out. Yes, leave your stock cooler in place, best of both worlds.

This is for the hipo T4 guys and I'm filling a small niche, so I don't have a problem with this type of advertising.

I don't like the "I can get you that" type of post, that was made by a certain person (that is no longer with us), with no real technical help. I know Jake pisses some people off, but in my mind he does share quite a bit of technical info, so I have no problem with his posts. Guys like Jake, James Adams (rennshift), LN, etc is part of what makes this site cool.

BTW anyone with a welder, some fab equipment and spare time could make this, wouldn't piss me off one bit. There is a lot more to it than just cutting off the brackets though.

Mark, There is an art to pissing people off.....

But I have never heard someone that listened to my info say that it didn't work just as I explained it.....

I know...I've been told I'm quite an expert at it as well.

see, there is a trend... You actually do this like I do, and have had to feel the pain of a mistake, and cannot stand to see someone that gets all their knowledge from some book or webpage try and make it gospel without building a single engine..

Damn! That sucks, because I just converted my motor BACK from that type of oiling system (when I had it in the bug).

Just as an FYI... I might have a Gene Berg cover plate and a 30mm pump to sell. I;m not dicking around with this anymore!

Later!
Tom

Hum.. I'm having issues with 2-3 AutoX cars that are showing low oil pressure at idle when warmed up. I'm betting they have worn stock pumps and could benefit from this full flow and a new pump. I like it.

What exactly do we need to plug in the case ? can this be done with the engine in the car with the fan shroud removed, or does the engine have to come out ?


B

Doubt you can do it with the motor in the car. Have to get behind blower housing. As usual, easier to drop the motor.

anyway, is this canton a good race filter? Good to 8 microns.


thanks,
dr

Brad, if you made a adaptor for the stock fliter mount housing, so you could return oil through it, it could be done. I could try it out if you like. Of course if you already tapped the case for plugs you could just take out the plug and put in the 3/8 NPT 90 degree street elbow. With the fan housing off it should be do-able, I don't know if you can get the shroud off in the car though.

Jake, I've always done my engines much like you do...the right way the first time, no shortcuts.


Tom, you have a PM...Oh, no you don't, it came back. How much for the pump and cover...PM me.

Mark

David those filters look cool, but I've never used one. I take it they are washable.

My buddy has a 'System One' from Berg, POS leaks all the time no matter what he does.

We have used the Canton/Mecca system with success. I have also had decent success with "Oberg" setup in the past.

Mark.. I already have an adapter that we fab for the oil filter console to return oil to the engine from the coolers.

This is what we use in the race cars with no engine mounted oil cooler.


B

This is what the pieces looks like that we use in place of the oil cooler.


B

Yep, that will work!
And you could keep the stock cooler as well, if you want.

The other issue is the cam gear that is currently in the engine. If its not modified the pump WILL interfere with it..

Couldn’t you trim the nose or body on the pump down a bit more? Or would it be too much?

If it had an aftermaket cam in it already the cam bolts would be spot-faced.

The problem is the lower pin in the pump body. f ANY, and I mean ANY material is removed from it you run the risk of the pin backing into the cam gear.. I have seen it happens so many times when guys do it wrong. I leave mine virgin and keep the taper and peen fit just like factory. The upper drive is no sweat at all, the lower one is a bit hairy.

Interesting about the pin. I have ground them down in the past (like 10 years ago) What if we drilled and tapped the front side of the pin so it couldnt slide back into the cam ? This would help hold the cover on also. Just a thought.

B

That could cause problems...if the pin is cocked just a hair it would lock-up the pump, it's another leak potential and isn't the pin hardened steel? If it is good luck tapping it.

i would like to do this.... but my engine is already assembled and running and in the car. stock cam gear i believe....what could i do?