This is a local customers car I am currently repairing. I went at it from the outside to show what lies behind the engine mount in some cases. Form inside the bay the mount " appeard " to be fine. This video will show otherwise. The other spot to check is the lower part of the mount with the curved recess in it. That section tends to rot through and can be seen from inside the engine bay, prior top doing any real work. included is a poic of the mount form the front side once after I knocked all the scale out form the other side. Prior to knocking the scale out, the upper section of the mount looked fine, the lower did not though.Enjoy


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VM9nAhsFa10

I can't see the youtube but I can see the picture. What are your options with a mount like that. Do you look for a donor or fab somthing yourself? I don't think anyone makes a replacement but I could be wrong.

You can use mine if they are any good.

I will take a look at the one on Marks car first since it needs to come out anyway. If his is no good I will look at few cars I have and if all else fails, I will just make a new one. They are pretty simply made. Just a few bend sfrom flat plate, the only " tricky " part is the lower portion, but that isn't to big of a deal.

wtf, that's nasty.

have fun!

Man that's crazy! Even more crazy is Wilford Brimley's music preference! That guy ROCKS!
Lol

I love the sound track
They are still selling those engine mounts, I think, factory originals... for $300!
I was happy that the bottom of mine is alright; just got to reconstruct the back of it.
it is really surprising the nastiness that lies between it and the long. That one is something else though!

Is there even a 914 left anymore?

yikes, you will fix that? probably be cheaper to get a roller from California.
I sold my last roller for $500 and its rust was no where as bad as that.

Yes the car is being fixed. Since these pics I have reweldied the suspension mount, primed and seam selaed all of that area, welded in the outer long and primed it. I have already done the rear floor, inner and outer longs, upper and lower wheelhouse, I now need to finish the engine bay area, reinstall the sill plate, sandblast pass side hole, install engine tray, battery tray, reweld 1/4 panel on, and then see what is gpoing on on the drivers side. I can already see there are pinholes in it

Can you tell me where you get that piece, the inner long inner, the rear diagonal/ angled-up part??

http://www.restoration-design.com/Merchant...tegory_Code=914

Part # 22 in the pic. It goes up much further then where I cut. This car just didn't ned the whole pice so it was cheaper for the customer not to use the whole thing.

When I say 'inner' of the inner long, I meant like the inner layer, not the inner of the car. - I'd asked about that in another thread, the 'restoration panes' one, and the same confusion there. #22 looks to be flat; I think that is the 'outer' sheath; the one I'm talking about looks to be corrugated. I guess I should say 'inside' instead of 'inner'. It looks like you have a formed piece for that ?

#22 IS the corrugated part. the diagram on their site is just a basic drawing. there is no " outer sheath " ( engine side ) currently being reproduced which I find odd as it is always needed when replacing the inner section. If by outer sheath you are reffering to the peice in the wheel well, that is normaly refferd to as the lower wheelhouse. That is part # 26 in the diagram, that includes the hole where the jack post goes.

[quote name='scotty b' date='Oct 5 2010, 05:52 AM' post='1379461']
#22 IS the corrugated part. the diagram on their site is just a basic drawing. there is no " outer sheath " ( engine side ) currently being reproduced which I find odd as it is always needed when replacing the inner section. If by outer sheath you are reffering to the peice in the wheel well, that is normaly refferd to as the lower wheelhouse. That is part # 26 in the diagram, that includes the hole where the jack post goes.
[/quote]
[/quote]


Do you always fabricate the smooth layer to go over the corrogated part? I was under the impression that the corrogated part available was thought of as a replacement for both pieces. It seems to have components of both in its construction.

Just curious,
John

Ah, thanks for clearing that up! They should fix their picture; I'd planned on doing my own for the 'outside' smooth piece, seems easy enough if you're just doing your own car. Doing this all the time, I can see how all of it preformed would be the ticket. I'll definitely be hooking up with that.

[quote name='obscurity' date='Oct 5 2010, 03:18 AM' post='1379464']
[quote name='scotty b' date='Oct 5 2010, 05:52 AM' post='1379461']
#22 IS the corrugated part. the diagram on their site is just a basic drawing. there is no " outer sheath " ( engine side ) currently being reproduced which I find odd as it is always needed when replacing the inner section. If by outer sheath you are reffering to the peice in the wheel well, that is normaly refferd to as the lower wheelhouse. That is part # 26 in the diagram, that includes the hole where the jack post goes.
[/quote]
[/quote]


Do you always fabricate the smooth layer to go over the corrogated part? I was under the impression that the corrogated part available was thought of as a replacement for both pieces. It seems to have components of both in its construction.

Just curious,
John
[/quote]


To be completely honest John I do make the smooth outer piece but I struggle with it ( mentyaly ) every time. It just isn't necessary, it is another spot to trap condensatrion, BUT it just doesn't look right without it on there. I also am not a big fan of welding the engine mount to that outer sheath, but I have not seen one pull apart there so I guess it is fine from the factory like that

Now just to keep you left coasters from getting to smug about you " rust free " cars. This is off of Mikes wreck. A " rust free " Califunkya car.

Just out of curiousity what guage do you use for the smooth layer? I have been using 16ga. for most structurale repairs but I am inclined to think I can go thinner for the smooth layer.

Thanks,
John

18 gauge no less. 16 would be great but not really necessary. You don't want to go any less due to the fact the mount is welded directly to that piece.

Great looking repair Scotty!

i got NOS factory mount, when i got it i was told there were only seven left in Porsche inventory. if any one needs one, PM me. (golly I will have to look for it, but it is in my stuff pile some place) i got two of them some years ago, one is on my car and the other is a spare. too bad no one is doing a reproduction run of these parts yet

have fun