qa1142
Oct 3 2010, 07:16 PM
So you make us chassis stiffening kits
you make us fuel lines
You make us Oil lines
How about full set of pre-bent brake lines?
front to rear replacement lines?
Mike Bellis
Oct 3 2010, 10:11 PM
This would be cool. bubble flairs are a pain in the ass to get right with a hand tool.
VaccaRabite
Oct 4 2010, 05:25 AM
Pre-bent brake lines would be a PITA to ship.
I made my own hard lines, it was not difficult and they have held up very well. I was able to get perfect bubble flares after 3 or 4 practice runs.
Zach
jaxdream
Oct 4 2010, 06:57 AM
Would it help in the bubble flaring to use a dab of brake fluid to lubricate ??
Just wondering if a little lubrication would assist in the flaring operation .
Jack / Jaxdream
mihai914
Oct 4 2010, 07:58 AM
IMO, what really makes the difference is the quality of the flaring tool you use, the cheap $20 kits are crap and are good to do one flare and that's about it.
Someone lent me a good flaring kit and it was day and night, I think Lisle tools made it.
The biggest PIA lines to make are the ones at each wheel along with the one that goes through the firewall and the one that goes over the steering rack, which would be an interesting kit to make and would be fairly easy to fit in a decent sized box.
The long line that goes through the centre tunnel is pretty straightforward.
Maybe the local brake expert (cough, cough, Eric Shea) can chime in, I assume it would be in his line of business.
VaccaRabite
Oct 4 2010, 08:04 AM
My flaring tool is not the best in the world - but it was free.
This is what I found to be critical.
1) the cut MUST be square. I used a pipe cutter for this, not a hacksaw or rotary cutter. I then dressed the cut with a file and the reamer on the tube cutter.
2) Setting depth on the flares was also critical. If the first flare out was too wide, the second flare in would be out of shape. I also found that I needed to really clamp down with the tool, or the brake line would slip and the flare would be ruined.
With my car I used the green coated steel lines from NAPA. There also is a guy making hardline sets out of a nickle copper alloy that are already cut to size, flared, and can be bent very easily by hand w/o kinking. The steel lines you need to use a tube bender to shape.
Zach
qa1142
Oct 4 2010, 08:16 AM
I don't want to flair them or bend them, I want to install them with these
I got new hoses, wish I could have just bought new lines too.
nathansnathan
Oct 4 2010, 08:28 AM
I've been thinking of doing my lines withe the 'Cunifer' which is copper nickel ferrous. I guess this is common in europe where steel lines often rust. Stainless is said to become brittle and could crack. Also the cunifer should be easier to flare and form without a bender. I think price is its only drawback.
ChrisFoley
Oct 4 2010, 08:29 AM
I've had this on my back burner for a while.
We have the flaring tool already.
Maybe it's time to complete the project now.
nsyr
Oct 4 2010, 07:12 PM
I remember buying a hard line kit on ebay about 7 years ago. They weren't pre-bent but were for the 914.
Eric_Shea
Oct 4 2010, 09:09 PM
Classic Tubes already has patterns that we sent them last year. Maybe now that I have a new rep there we can get some action on it. They come in both staniless and regular steel
nsr-jamie
Oct 4 2010, 09:46 PM
I'd be interested in a complete set for one car Chris if you do decide to make them, I was pleased with your fuel lines, you make good stuff!! And amazingly shipped that to me for much more cheaper than I had expected. Thanks!
Zaney
Oct 5 2010, 02:17 PM
Classic tubes listed: Pre-bent brake lines (I believe SS)
914
Part No. Year Description Price
SBH6246 1970-76 Front & Rear Disc (4 Pc.) $145.46
taken from their PDF cataloge
Racer Chris do your magic!
my928s4
Oct 5 2010, 03:42 PM
I bought a kit from these guys :
http://www.austinhealeywood.com/brakelines.htmlUnfortunately they are meant for the earlier cars which have the proportioning valve in a slightly different position. So for me the kit worked fine except for the rear ...
These lines are easy to manipulate with the Eastwood tool.
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