I'm pulling the /6 motor and trans Saturday in preparation for body/rust repair to the right quarter/suspension console/longitudinal. I'd like to do it with the car on my 4-post lift. I need to know of it will fit between the rails (31", maybe more, will know later tonight). I can't really get an accurate measurement of the width of the motor with it installed in the car. Looks like it's right around 31".

Anybody know what the width of a 911 motor is without exhaust installed?

Anybody? Brad?

I dont have a 2.0 (6) out of a car to measure.. all I have is 3.2's and 3.6's.

Measure between the two insed nuts for the control arms. This is the minimum you will need.


B

Thanks.

Mike, let me know how this goes. A while back I measured
that it would take around 6" of lift widening to get the engine
out with the sheetmetal on. And I haven't found a way to
remove the sheetmetal with the engine in (not to mention
it would be easier to drop the engine the normal way).
Are you going to make a wooden 'stand' and then lift the
car? That's what I'll do, probably end of this year.
Mark S.
'70 914-6

You can actually just do it with a floor jack and some jackstands (at least with my motor mount.

Yeah, BTDT (914/4). I'd much rather do it on with the car on my lift with a floor tranny jack and 2 or three guys standing underneath the car.




Will do Mark. Shit. I wasn't even thinking about the engine tin. I might end up on my back after all.

Pull the tin off while its in the car. Fairly painless as long as the car is fairly clean.


B

This motor is the leakiest pig I've ever seen. One of the projects while the car is in the shop is to seal this thing up. I'll look into it though.

Can anybody tell me (or better yet, show me with pics) where and how many screws are holding the engine tin on a 914/6?

I can show ya Gint' Let me find a engine sitting around here or some cam towers and I'll shoot some pics for you.


B

Thanks Brad. I appreciate it. Working multiple projects today.

Quote:
This motor is the leakiest pig I've ever seen.

Thanks for reminder to bring my gloves over on Saturday. No worries about the clearance issue, 4 guys and some beer, we will have that thing out in no time.

Ferg

ya.. ya...

even though my sawzall is out of town..... if we have to I'm positive we can get that sucker out . (one way or the other)...



brant (doing nothing to help the matter)

Mike,


These are the hardest one to get too.

B

are those the 930 lowers?
I was told that they may need to be trimmed or shaved to fit properly.
Any truth in that? If not, I'd like to replace mine with them.

Those are the 930 lowers (this pic is of a stock 3.2 we have sitting around). I dont think they need to be trimmed for a 9146. I know they need trimmed for certain 911's.. but not a 6 in a 914.


B

anybody have a set they want to get rid of?

Hey Brad,

I have the turbo valve covers on my 2.0/6. I got them when I was in Texas. Wes Hildreth told me that I needed to shave the passenger side one since I had regular heat exchangers. He did it right there in his shop.

Pretty cool.

-Rusty

I've got Bursch headers, make any difference.

All you can do is try to install them. If they don't fit, shave it down.

-Rusty

HUm.. I looked under "Muellers6" and I maybe its the passenger side that needed to be done.

OK. Stock 6 needs to be shaved (I dont run them that often) I surface the stock ones and go on.

You shouldnt have any problem with the headers.


OH>>> duh.. to get them off the car... one side does need to be shaved for the stock 6 HE's. It wont come off the studs.

Stock early lower:

B

Stock turbo:

B

Stock Turbo shaved:

B

Mike, I did some looking under the car tonight. As
if you haven't been measuring, but ... At least the
lift is wider than the distance between the
suspension console by about an inch and a half.

So to do the drop, it looks like remove muffler,
remove heat exchangers, remove tin, heater
hoses. Not the worst, but takes some time and
reaching for things like the bolts on the front of
the tin.

To get the tin down past the lift ramps you would
need to move the left ramp all the way left that
it will go, and then getting the car in just the
right place will be tight.

I hate to remove everything if it's not necessary,
so one alternative that I might look into sometime
is to get a couple serious pieces of angle stock to
go under the car near the front and rear donuts
(with wood I think) and large tow truck straps over
the lift, use the lift over the car. It sure is hard
work to be lazy
Mark S.
'70 914-6

Heh. I considered using the cherry picker even.

I waited too long to try and get a standing tranny jack. I think I'll drain the tank and the sump, pull the carbs, linkage, wiring, fuel lines, MSD, battery, HE's/exhaust, shifter rod and driveshafts with the car on the lift. Then I'll bite the bullet and roll it on over to the concrete pad on the side of the house and get the jacks out from there.

Tranny has to come off the motor so I can get it on the engine stand and get it sealed and cleaned up. The carbs need to be re-bushed. The HE's need some straightening that can only be done off the car. Tranny needs to be sealed, and I may even convert it to a SS while I'm at it.

This will end up being just short of a resto by the time it's done.

mskala:


Mark, FYI

I had the motor on one of the lift rails until I got it on the engine stand. Once that was accomplished I lifted the lift up above the motor/stand and got a good look at the motor when it was directly between the rails. With the tin off, it clears by 1/2" total. Now that I have the experience of pulling the motor out and removing the tin, I realize that the motor can be re-installed without the tin whit the car on the lift. It shouldn't be very difficult to re-install the tin once the motor has been lifted above the rails and before raising it all the way into the engine bay. The motor and bay will be much cleaner than also.