I'm having an issue with the AAV. When the car is started it reves up to 3000rpm and does not want to go down.
If I clamp the hose from the aav to just about closed, it will bring the idle down to about 1200 rpm but i must release the clamp a bit to keep it from stalling. I figure the AAV is toast.
I tried to connect the aav to the battery and it gets hot but does not seem to close the air off enough. It might reduce it by 15%
When it works correctly how much should it close off the air? 50% , 95%.
How long will it work for? Until the engine is warm and then shuts off?
When I first got the car someone had unpluged the temp sensor and jamed a plug in the hose to stop any air flow. I found this out when i disconnected the hose comming from the AAV and tried to blow through it and it was pluged.
The car would run fine when it was warm but you would have to feather the gas until it was warm.

This valve has a bi-metal strip that when heated, closes off the valve. Once warm, air should not flow. These often get gummed up or the heater burns out. 2.0 is different from a 1.8 but the function is the same

It should close completely once warmed up. If it moves at all, you might just need to clean it out ...

Speaking about a 2.0L AAR, the rotating cylinder inside gets gummed/rusted and sometimes won't close all the way. Turn it upside down and soak it in PB Blaster. Mine was stuck open and an overnight soak freed it up. The AAR stays closed until it cools down.

IIRC, if the hose to the AAR from the Air Cleaner has a suction after the engine is warmed up, the AAR is stuck open. On a cold engine, if there is no suction immediately after starting, the AAR is stuck closed.

Paul

Good news is you can bench test with a pair of 12 volt leads. When you get it cleaned out, the window in the AAR ahould close in 1 - 3 minutes. Mine typically close in 1 1/2 min.

Spares are easily found at swap meets and the classifieds.

And yes, they have 3 positions. Open, almost closed and closed.