Accelerator has always seemed tight, like it takes 2x the foot pressure than it should.

Throttle body does not seem sticky, but could it be a really stiff spring, or is the cable just tight/gunked up?

it is a 75 2.0 and i have had it for 1 year, no idea if it has ever been replaced.

another thing, though, If engine is warm, been running for several hours, and i go to stop, clutch and let off accelerator cable, it is slow to decelerate. I do not see this just much just drving to work in the morning(20 min).

How hard is it to run a new accelerator cable?

Phil

I have this same issue with my newly acquired 74.

I think it is in the linkage behind the pedal that is connected to the pedal cluster. The engine side it seems free and not bound up.

I have to take the floor board out and check pivot of the linkage. I picked up a new cable and accelerator pedal, they are fairly inexpensive.

Let us know what you find out.

Click to view attachment

possible issues:
* Throttle cable wrapped around the clutch cable
* Throttle cable wrapped around the brake fluid line
* Throttle cable frayig and getting ready to break
* Return spring on the throttle cable is too tight

Zach

Hey Phil,

It could be hung up some where in the tunnel . If I only owned the car a year I would probably be inclined to change the throttle, clutch and speedo cables. I have had oustanding results with Teri cables for the clutch and throttle as I have had these in my daily driver for more than ten years. I will be replacing all my cables this month,this way I know the age of all my cables. The cost is apporx. $110 thru Pelican.

Phil, PM sent.

...Maybe ancient throttle body??

they are not hard to replace at all, 10 minutes average. I just did mine yesterday. first you have to unhook from the pedal , then the carb. Jack up the car, you will see the tunel, just pull it out. push the new one into the tunel and attach back on both ends.

I would also check the spring on the carbs to make sure that they are not putting to much pressure on the pedal.

One other place that a 75 can stick. Look at the small cut out on the air box for the end of the lever on the throttle body shaft. It's only about an 1/8" cut out and hard to see. How do I know????

When I did my last restoration, I gutted the car. When I went to pull out the throttle cable, it jammed. The nylon sleeve was so old that it broke apart and jammed the cable somewhere in the tube. BTW you cannot push a cable back in a tube. I tried!!!!!!!!!
I ended up breaking the cable inside the tube.
It ended up that the jam occurred between the shifter and the firewall.
In the end I had to cut out a 6 inch section of the tunnel and a 6 inch section of the throttle cable tube and splicing in a new piece. NOT FUN!!!
Now my new cable is a bit tight like yours but I don't want to mess with it.
Good thing all this happened during a restoration and not after the car was completed.

This thread is perfect timing. I'm going to be replacing my accelerator and clutch cables. Was going to order the Terry Cables from pelican. I've heard a few people say that the TC's accelerator cable is more flexible. How are the Terry Cables?

Ok. Well, i spent some time looking at each end on this. The throttle body i think is o.k., and i do not think the return spring is the problem. when accelerated at the throttle body by hand it pops right back. I actually think it is the pedal itself causing the problem, or the front linkage that pulls the cable when the pedal is pressed upon. I had checked the clearance at the airbox- it is close but not the problem. But just because it is 35 years old, i am going to do the following;
A: replace the cable- new one on the way;
B: since i have a rebuilt clutch/brake pedals from SUNAB914-chris, and i have a new pedal board from the Group Buy(aluminum) that i was going to put in, i will pull the old board, replace the pedals, lube or replace the linkage for the accelerator, put the new cable in and see what happens.
I think Als914 has good suggestion, my speedometer cable is bad, too, so going to do both at same time.
Will let you all know how it goes, but hey, any one have advice on shift linkage bushing replacement- another separate issue right now?
anyway, should be done next week.

Phil

Speedo cable is a little more fun. be prepared. Center console and center cushion, carpet have to come out. Good luck.

Ok, might be a newbie question - how the heck do you get to your accelerator cable? My floor was covered in bed liner, so maybe there are some hidden panels I'm not seeing (besides the 1 covering the electrical wires, and the square panel near the firewall). But other than those, I can't get into the central tunnel to see where my sticky accelerator is happening.

Bad or missing Transmission ground strap can cause the cable to become a ground and will fry the cable someday, welding it to the tunnel. A possibility to check out.

Here's another possible cause. The cable or the casing wears on the inside of the tube. You can't tell when moving the cable by hand. But under tension as it is when installed it's rough. BTDT. All other things remained the same, replaced the cable with a new stock replacement and cured the problem. Cables are cheap enough, and if it turns out not to be the cable, you now have a spare. Which is never a bad idea.