Full Version: Lack of use, is abuse!
Gents, I have a 2L, carbs, ran fine when I put it in my garage a yr ago but I have had a miss from the SAME cyl sence trying to get it back on the road. Changed plug and wires, SAME cyl missing. I have been reading this thread about a missfireing engine, and this snot stuff one can expect to find in carbs. I think thats my prob, so, how does one remove a carb? Where to look? Clean with ? [Got air!] PS. Replaced missing cyl plug today, had 4 burning for about 5 min, then back to 3 cyl 2L engine! GUN COCKED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Maybe the float needle on #4 is stuck and its over filling the float and flooding the cylinder... is the plug really gassy?
If the fuel is a year old, you will need to drain and re-fill as well. Carbs don't like the new gas that separates within a few months. I have to drain all my carbs every year on the dirt bikes. Fuel injection doesn't seem to care soo much.
QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Oct 15 2010, 03:07 PM) 
Maybe the float needle on #4 is stuck and its over filling the float and flooding the cylinder... is the plug really gassy?
His carbs have only one float and float bowl each, ruling out a stuck float or leaking needle valve.
The Cap'n
Razor, I know that you have told me this stuff before, but could you remind us what carbs you are using? What kind of linkage? I *think* that I remember you saying that they were dual IDF 40s, but my memory is more like swiss cheese then cheddar, you know?
If they have been sitting unused for a year (it really *is* abuse to let them sit) they may need to be cleaned and rebuilt. Ethanol rots WAY quick and will gum up the passages.
If they are IDF carbs, there are 4 studs per carb that hold the carb to the intake runners. Depending on the linkage type you are using, there could be one or more small joints that need to be unbolted to free the carb from the linkage. Open up the engine lid and it is pretty easy to see what you need.
You have changed plugs and wires. Have you confirmed that you are getting spark? The easiest way to tell it to hook your timing light up to each plug wire and confirm that it makes the timing light flash. You have probably done this, but the test is too easy not to mention.
Have you pulled out the idle jets and cleaned them with carb cleaner and compressed air? Also, put the nozzle of carb cleaner into the port for the ilde jet in the carb and soak that too, then blow it with air. It might clean the gum out of that circuit w/o needing to remove the carb.
But, we are gettign into the "winter project" months. This is a prime time to pull the carbs and tear them down for a full on rebuild. They *will* thank you for it, and it is not hard to do. I actually tend to enjoy it.
Search for my thread on soda blasting carb bodies and Mark's thread on using Pine Sol.
Zach
If they have been sitting unused for a year (it really *is* abuse to let them sit) they may need to be cleaned and rebuilt. Ethanol rots WAY quick and will gum up the passages.
If they are IDF carbs, there are 4 studs per carb that hold the carb to the intake runners. Depending on the linkage type you are using, there could be one or more small joints that need to be unbolted to free the carb from the linkage. Open up the engine lid and it is pretty easy to see what you need.
You have changed plugs and wires. Have you confirmed that you are getting spark? The easiest way to tell it to hook your timing light up to each plug wire and confirm that it makes the timing light flash. You have probably done this, but the test is too easy not to mention.
Have you pulled out the idle jets and cleaned them with carb cleaner and compressed air? Also, put the nozzle of carb cleaner into the port for the ilde jet in the carb and soak that too, then blow it with air. It might clean the gum out of that circuit w/o needing to remove the carb.
But, we are gettign into the "winter project" months. This is a prime time to pull the carbs and tear them down for a full on rebuild. They *will* thank you for it, and it is not hard to do. I actually tend to enjoy it.
Search for my thread on soda blasting carb bodies and Mark's thread on using Pine Sol.
Zach
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 15 2010, 09:41 PM)
Razor, I know that you have told me this stuff before, but could you remind us what carbs you are using? What kind of linkage? I *think* that I remember you saying that they were dual IDF 40s, but my memory is more like swiss cheese then cheddar, you know?
If they have been sitting unused for a year (it really *is* abuse to let them sit) they may need to be cleaned and rebuilt. Ethanol rots WAY quick and will gum up the passages.
If they are IDF carbs, there are 4 studs per carb that hold the carb to the intake runners. Depending on the linkage type you are using, there could be one or more small joints that need to be unbolted to free the carb from the linkage. Open up the engine lid and it is pretty easy to see what you need.
You have changed plugs and wires. Have you confirmed that you are getting spark? The easiest way to tell it to hook your timing light up to each plug wire and confirm that it makes the timing light flash. You have probably done this, but the test is too easy not to mention.
Have you pulled out the idle jets and cleaned them with carb cleaner and compressed air? Also, put the nozzle of carb cleaner into the port for the ilde jet in the carb and soak that too, then blow it with air. It might clean the gum out of that circuit w/o needing to remove the carb.
But, we are gettign into the "winter project" months. This is a prime time to pull the carbs and tear them down for a full on rebuild. They *will* thank you for it, and it is not hard to do. I actually tend to enjoy it.
Search for my thread on soda blasting carb bodies and Mark's thread on using Pine Sol.
Zach
QUOTE(underthetire @ Oct 15 2010, 06:10 PM)
If the fuel is a year old, you will need to drain and re-fill as well. Carbs don't like the new gas that separates within a few months. I have to drain all my carbs every year on the dirt bikes. Fuel injection doesn't seem to care soo much.
Is there something I can put IN the gas for winter storage to prevent this? The gas in the take is mostly this yrs gas, just a few gal from last summer. Bob
Yea, its called fuel stabilizer.
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