I'm fitting the V8 engine/901 trans into my 914 and with the transaxle mounts bolted to the stock pads in the stock location it appears the harmonic balancer will hit the stock brake proportioning valve. I'm using a bare block bolted to the transaxle to do the initial trial fit and it has no crank in it to attach a balancer to. Doesn't look like there is room for it though. Also the cylinder heads will not fit on the block without hitting the bulkhead. I do have the engine centered and leveled in the car( the car is on jackstands with rockers level). Doesn't look like much room for the water plates either. On some of the photos posted here I've seen what looks like clearancing on the firewall at the valve covers(hammer work). Is that done?

I've done some searching here and discovered the Renegade kit moves the drivetrain 1.75" rearward. I was under the impression that Simpson didn't move the trans back at all.

Sorry for the newbie questions but I've never seen a V8 swap in person nor any real good well lit photos of the firewall area of a swapped car. Is the proportioning valve moved on V8 cars and I just never heard about it?


Mike T

I would imagine that on most V8 cars the brakes are upgraded and the proportioning valve is removed. Other than that, I'm not much help, alhough I'm interested in an answer, because I'm hoping to do a V8 conversion in the next couple of years.

I havent seen a kit yet that didnt move the engine/tranny back. I think Simpson moves it back less because he utilizes the stock 4cyl late cross bar.

Ditch the prop valve. The extra weight alone in the middle will help balance things. It also makes changing water pump belts easier.


B

The transaxle sets 1.25 inches to the rear. This centers up the chevy engine mounts with the crossbar mount. With the renegade crossbar the engine sets at a slight angle to the front(not level). This is your trouble with the valve covers needing clearence you may have your engine setting to high.

I think I still have the cad drawings of all of the mounts I made and can send them to you. If you don't have anything to read autocad drawings you can download intellicad for free off the net.


Bob

Hey Bradholio,

Speaking of prop valves, does a 911 use one? If so, would we be better served to use the 911 prop valve?

Andy

Mike,

This is where the valve cover is close to bulkhead. Drivers side only (pass. side is offset and does not get this close). Stock valve covers should not cause any clearance issues. Mine are tall due to roller rockers and made slight contact when first installed. It does not take much to get proper clearance.

My kit is a recent Renegade unit.

John

sdfg

A different shot

This is how RH moves trans. back (1.25") and down (3/4").

From another angle. I'm with the others, drop the prop. valve. Ran my v8 with "T" using stock brakes in excellent condition but did have 19mm master cylinder installed. No complaints with this setup.

As Bradholio mentioned, the prop. valve will be in the way for most water pump work. Water pump is located right about center of prop. valve..........not harmonic balancer. You'll play hell bleeding the prop. valve with water pump installed if ever needed.

With the RH serpentine belt, I have about 4-5" of clearance from front of harmonic balancer to bulkhead.

Good luck with the install!!

John

Thanks all for the detailed photos. Best I've seen of the areas I wondered about.

The fitting that replaces the stock prop valve... Where do you get it? I read once that it was the same 3-way fitting used on early VW Beetles in the rear to split the line for each side. Yes? If not, where to get the right one...


My brakes are also stock with 19mm master cylinder. Got it that way. I was hesitant to break into the system just because my brakes are so GOOD but looks like I will have to.

Mike T

Mike,

Sounds like we received our cars in the same condition. PO rebuilt brakes, installed s/s lines and upgraded to 19mm m/c. I dumped the prop. valve when asking the same questions you are here.

The "T" is a VW piece. This is mine installed.

John

Wow, all my questions answered in one day! Simple stuff for those that have done it before but essential to a V8 first-timer.


Thanks John and all

Mike T

(Former V6 car soon to be V8)

What a diffrence, I think I need to wash my engine and make some finish...*S*

John,Brad, anyone...
I was going to by a set of the Edelbrock rpm heads for my 302... are the straight
spark plug or the angled plug heads the way to go for our cars...???
Thanks,
Thom

I've got one I just took off of my car, it's yours if you want it. Was going to offer it up here, but you've got first dibs.

Thom,

Sorry, I'm not a SBC gury and had my engine built by a pro. I would think a more detailed list of other parts would be needed to better answer this question, ie cam, rpm range your planning on, carb etc.

I'm sure Bob or Brad will jump in here soon and give a recommendation.

John

A set of coated headers, a little clean up of the wiring, some degreaser to the intake, and a clean air breather would make all the difference in the world. Looks like less than a days work to me.

John

Angle plug is fine. There is plenty of room to remove the plugs. I have to use a wrench on a couple of them.


B

in our classifieds someone is selling a v8 conversion kit including a 915 transmission for 1K.....i'd buy it if I was not tapped out right now

Mike,
Another example for your topic. Part Jaide and part Bradfab...

[quote=3liter914-6,Apr 29 2004, 06:02 AM] [/QUOTE]
I've got one I just took off of my car, it's yours if you want it. Was going to offer it up here, but you've got first dibs. [/quote]


Thanks, I rooted around in my stuff and it turns out I have one already. Years of fiddling with Bugs pays off.

Mike T