Okay, I'm needing some outside opinions. As some of you may know, I had to replace the engine in my car due several issues.

I got the backup engine together and installed (2.0L FI) and I cannot get it to run correctly. When I start it up (if I can get it started) the first thing you notice is the sound. It is loud and it is an air-like sound that seems to be more distinct on the driver's side of the car. It sounds like more air is being pushed/sucked through the engine than there should be. Kind of sounds like a Harley. When driving, the car feels like it has no power either. When accelerating, the car shutters and struggles to increase speeds and the engine itself does not want to rev.

I did some tests and verified that all four injector were working properly and that all four cylinders were firing.

About a week ago I took it for a test drive (approx. 10 minutes) and after experiencing the problem, I pulled over, shut the car off and made sure everything will still hooked up and all connections were tight. I tried to restart the car and it would not start. I had to tow the car home. That was the last time I had the car running.

My first thought was that I messed up the valves or timing. After adjusting the valves several times and set the timing to spec, there is virtually no change. (I used the "rocking" method the last time to ensure the valves were correct regardless of where TDC was) I have heard that having the distributor 180 degrees off, the car will run but not very well. So I tried to flip it around and I got nothing. The car didn't even try to run.

I did a compression test when the motor was COLD and I got 120 on three cylinders and 70 on the fourth(cylinder # 3). I would like to repeat this test with the engine warm however I can't get it to start. I believe it might be flooded from all the cranking.

So assuming I can get it running after it dries out, what should be my next step? What could be causing this issue? The low compression on cylinder 3 would cause a decrease in power and needs to be addressed however I don't want to take the engine back out to the remove the head until I can verify the compression results with the engine warm. Would half-pressure on one cylinder cause excessive 'air noise' from the opposite side of the engine or 'shuttering' when accelerating? Obviously the 70 psi is not good but it doesn't seem to be the only thing wrong. Maybe I'm wrapping my head around this too much, what do you guys think?

exaust leaks? maybe that is the harely noise you hear????

for not running right, take a look at the plugs and see what color they are (rich is black) good luck

...also a loose head?....check that!

Exhaust is all tight. I've doubled checked that. I also get no back-firing or missing when the car runs.

Cylinder heads were all torqued to spec when I installed the motor.

Update: I got the car running again. I took it for a drive and got it warmed up and I still have acceleration issues. After I got back, I did a compression test and it is still at 70 on cyl 3. At this point, I'm guessing the acceleration issues are due to the loss of power from cyl 3. Maybe a valve isn't sealing well?

As far as the noise goes, it sounds better for some reason. It sounds more normal now so I don't know what I did but I will address the low compression and then go from there.

the number 3 valve is the one that ends up getting the hottest and the seat falls out of the head...or it loosens and then gets beat back into the head at a slight angle. I have seen both and more....sometimes it bends the head of the valve...then you can really hear it.

Try a farmer style leak down test.
Get the number 3 at TDC, or BDC...just make sure both valves are closed and there is no pressure at all on the push rods...
TDC is better and you will have less of a chance for blowby of the rings.
Air will leak out...via the rings if everything is cool...via the valves is they are messed up, and via the head seal if its bad.

The head leaking is very loud...

Then take a compression tester hose and add your favorite air compressor nipple to the end and hook it up to the compressor and screw it into the spark plug hole. I use 100 PSI.

using a mechanics stethascope (sears), or a three foot piece of hose..( I use the 12mm FI hose) listen at both the intake throttle body, up top top listen for a loud leak...and listen to the exhaust port and all around the head seal for a loud leak.

Could be a seat...could be a head gasket...could be a bad seal at the head.

Listen everywhere...then torque the head bolts again up to the factory spec...then listen again...

Rich

Great advice! Thanks for the help! I did as you said and it turns out, my exhaust valve on cylinder 3 is leaking the air. It was quite obvious once the air was connected. So at least now I know what the problem is. It looks like I'll be removing the engine again next weekend.


It's funny that you mention the cylinder 3 being the most prone to loosing a seat, that's the reason I took the old motor out, an intake valve seat came out.