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Full Version: 914 Accelerator Pedal / Cable / Linkage Diagram
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StewartMotorsport
Can someone link me to a picture or post of how the accelerator cable/linkage looks and attaches near the accelerator pedal?

I am almost ashamed to tell everyone what I found today when going in to do a repair. The Previous Owner(s) must be named Mickey and Minnie. But I DIDN'T DO IT - it's pretty unreal.

But now I don't have a reference point, so a good diagram would be really helpful.

I have looked everywhere I can think of. Please help.
Eric_Shea
Try this...

http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/origi...914_KATALOG.pdf
StewartMotorsport
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Nov 1 2010, 06:33 PM) *


Thanks - that helps some. Do you know of a picture of a complete assembled unit anywhere?
Eric_Shea
Tell us what you're trying to accomplish... I have a pedal assembly on the bench but, without knowing what the issues are, it won't be of much use. Chances are we've seen it or heard of it before...
StewartMotorsport
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Nov 1 2010, 06:43 PM) *

Tell us what you're trying to accomplish... I have a pedal assembly on the bench but, without knowing what the issues are, it won't be of much use. Chances are we've seen it or heard of it before...


Near as I can figure, the previous owner mickey moused the entire setup - and I think it started that way because there was some rust in the floor pan where the pedal mounts. That I can fix.

But the linkage/cable assembly looks all wrong too, and it functions wrong. But like I said, I don't have a good frame of reference - and all thopse parts are pretty buried, so I can't get a real good look at them anyway.

Any really good pics of the assembly (pedal, linkage, and cable) would be a HUGE help.

Then I could repair/replace the mickey moused items.
silver74insocal
these are ready to go in...acc and clutch cables connected but not much else

does anyone no the thread pitch on the mount posts on the pan? i dont want to strip them out

hope this helps

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Eric_Shea
OK... it's pretty simple.

Red Arrow - This is a "ball Socket" that is attached to the end of the accelerator cable. No magic here... cable then runs through the back of the tunnel and exits into the engine compartment.

Green Arrow - This is the clutch "clevis" it also attaches to a cable that also runs through the tunnel and exits into the engine compartment.

Blue Circle is the bellcrank. This can often break at the base where it's pivot shaft is brazed to the metal. Maybe some problems there? (taking a stab because I still don't know what might be the problem).

Clutch and acc. cables are often twisted and crossed inside the tunnel?? Don't know what else to add... It's very, very simple other than the fact that most of it is hard to see.

Click to view attachment
silver74insocal
great work Eric!! and the bolts are they the regular 13mm ? not to hijack..or wait..yeah its a hijack beerchug.gif
StewartMotorsport
QUOTE(silver74insocal @ Nov 1 2010, 08:46 PM) *

great work Eric!! and the bolts are they the regular 13mm ? not to hijack..or wait..yeah its a hijack beerchug.gif


I'm not worried about a hijack - if there is useful information for everyone, then it was worth it.
StewartMotorsport
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Nov 1 2010, 08:22 PM) *

OK... it's pretty simple.

Red Arrow - This is a "ball Socket" that is attached to the end of the accelerator cable. No magic here... cable then runs through the back of the tunnel and exits into the engine compartment.

Green Arrow - This is the clutch "clevis" it also attaches to a cable that also runs through the tunnel and exits into the engine compartment.

Blue Circle is the bellcrank. This can often break at the base where it's pivot shaft is brazed to the metal. Maybe some problems there? (taking a stab because I still don't know what might be the problem).

Clutch and acc. cables are often twisted and crossed inside the tunnel?? Don't know what else to add... It's very, very simple other than the fact that most of it is hard to see.

Click to view attachment


This is a FANTASTIC start - thank you.

BUT (there's always a BUT), how does the pedal attach to the cable? On my car, there is sort of a linkage rod that slips a ball into the bak of the pedal, and then it goes through some weird wire retainer, and somehow it pulls the cable. Remember, I said the PO mickey moused it.

Is there a LEVER or something that converts the action of the pedal from push to pull? I don't see one in my car, but again, it's all mickey'd and it's buried.
StewartMotorsport
OK - Red Circle - is this the BALL that slips into the cup on the back side of the pedal?

Light Blue Shape - what is this?

I see what looks like two levers to the left (clutch and brake), is this "lever" somehow associated with the accelerator pedal?

Tomorrow I will try to get in there with a camera and shoot images of what my mess looks like and post here. The very clean set up you have looks eerily different than mine.

"Who's the leader of the club that's made for you and me?

M I C K E Y...M O U S E."


Click to view attachment
Eric_Shea
Yes. Red circle = ball that inserts into the back of the pedal. It's attached to the top ball on the bellcrank. That's the piece that converts your push into a pull.

Blue = mounting plate for the brake light switch.

Acc. pedal screws into the floor (look at the picture above) with two M6 bolts. Rod goes in the back and the acc. stop is on the pedal board that covers all of this.
Eric_Shea
Silver - Sorry, didn't even see your request. Yes, M8 = 13mm nuts on the floor studs and on the M/C mounting bolts.
StewartMotorsport
OK - I've gotten to the bottom of it all.

1.) The P.O. relocated the accelerator pedal due to some rust in the floor pan.

2.) When he did so, the linkage rod that connects the pedal to the bellcrank is in an awkward position.

3.) When you lift your foot off the pedal and it returns to idle, that rod rubs against the outer wall edge of the tunnel, and thus causes it to become unattached at the bellcrank end.

4.) The PO solved this problem by manufacturing some sort of clip that would hold the ball joint together a little better. And it worked fine for a while. Recently, it failed and started this spiral.

Now my quandry: how to resolve it?

If I am going to install a new pedal, I will have to solve the rusty floor pan issue. And I'm already into this car for way more than I want to be. Suggestions?

bdstone914
Fix the floor and return it to stock.
Eric_Shea
QUOTE
I'm already into this car for way more than I want to be. Suggestions?


Sell it because to do it the Anti-Mickey way is to do what Bruce suggests and, if you think you're already into it for way more than you want to be now... wink.gif
StewartMotorsport
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Nov 2 2010, 05:20 PM) *

QUOTE
I'm already into this car for way more than I want to be. Suggestions?


Sell it because to do it the Anti-Mickey way is to do what Bruce suggests and, if you think you're already into it for way more than you want to be now... wink.gif


I hear that loud and clear.

It turns out that 1 of the original bolt holes in the floor pan is still there and in good condition (the one nearest the tunnel).

For the bad one, I am contemplating filling that void with some aluminum, welding it in, drilling a hole, and using some countersink bolts to mount the new pedal.

Sure, it does not remove all the rust in the area, but it is much more sturdy, and will last for many years.

Additionally, it turns out that the bell crank is bent - and that is what is causing the linkage piece to become disconnected when the pedal returns to the idle position. I think a good bend in the oposite direction will solve that problem.

BUT - I would be willing to buy a replacement unit if I could find one. The Pelican Parts Catalog does not have one for the 914 - are we supposed to use the 911 piece?

WTF.gif
Eric_Shea
QUOTE
Additionally, it turns out that the bell crank is bent - and that is what is causing the linkage piece to become disconnected when the pedal returns to the idle position. I think a good bend in the oposite direction will solve that problem.


This is what I was discussing earlier. Bending it back wont really help. When you get in there, you'll fine the piece has fractured at the base around the pivot arm.

Just take it off, have a competent welder fix it. Grind it if need be and have it replated. Should be better than new if you get a good weld on that joint. Maybe Bruce Stone has some extras (bdstone914 here).

If you can weld, I'd haunt the classifieds and see if someone who is cutting up a car (there's one here on the first page from Illinois) can cut out a good chunk of floorpan with that mounting area in it. Instead of the aluminum trick, spend the same time welding in a piece from a donor car. If you ask nice... the boys here are really nice. biggrin.gif
bdstone914
I do have extras of EVERY pedal set piece. Let me know if you need anything. The parts are the same for 911s.
StewartMotorsport
QUOTE(bdstone914 @ Nov 3 2010, 06:56 PM) *

I do have extras of EVERY pedal set piece. Let me know if you need anything. The parts are the same for 911s.


I sent you a PM - please respond asap! Thanks!
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