What would be a fair $ on a complete used dealer installed A/C system, minus the dry rotted lines? Looked all over the net & Evil Bay couldn't really find anything as to a fair current market value.

From my experience, you can't give any 914 a/c parts.
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Make sure that you get the rotted lines as well so you know the exact fittings and lengths of the hoses! A fair deal including the drive pulley for a nice system is 1500.00. This includes the wiring harness as well!!!

Ac is great in a 914. I would NEVER add it to an unmolested original car but certainly to a restoration that will be a driver. It makes the interior an ice box on the hottest day. I have a story to tell about air vs non air on a four hour trip years ago to Hilton Head. Identical cars even the color (Malaga) My friend Frank and girlfriend Nancy with no air, I and Becky with air arrived in Hilton Head, one couple looking like a train ran over them the other fresh calm cool and collected!!!

Even though I'm in Illinos, I would also have to agree. As we get older, the climate controls are a lot more important, and I know that I would use the car a whole lot more if it had AC.

Unfortunately, mine is a -6 conversion, and I need all the space possible, so until someone comes up with a good way to run a compressor on a -6 conversion, I have to stay hot in the summer months.

There are cars out there who had air installed and it no longer works.. If all your components are definitely in working order, the target market would be cars that want to refurbish their existing A/C.

Price is whatever market will bear! If someone restoring a 914 that had A/C wants to keep their costs within reason, anything over $500 usually doesn't make it into the budget.

Someone interested in adding A/C do a good driver, might actually pay more, since he isn't spending cash on a lot of restoration all at once. My experience is, keep prices under $1,000 for a better response.

It's been a while, but I have purchased used AC off of ebay twice, each time for about $300.00. Both times it was a pile of non functioning rust that I ended up putting back on ebay. The pictures always look so nice on ebay!! I would also love to put AC on my home made six. I am waiting for a NEW kit that includes an electric compressor. Another future 914 project....

I've seen several threads here on AC in a 6. Search is our friend.

Thanks for the quick replys, have a local shop here in town intersted in purchasing it, for another customers car.

Besides George's 916, there has only been 1 installation I have seen here on the Forum and that one had a Serpentine Belt with a mount attached to the Chain Boxes. It broke the studs off the Chain Box and it is no longer in use

Sorry for the hijack... Has anyone tried an electric compressor from a hybrid?
http://www.globaldensoproducts.com/hvc/ele...compressor.html

I was hoping to put an A/C compressor on after my /6 conversion. So there's no room for a belt driven compressor?

The belt hits the firewall because of the crankshaft dual belt pulley. The Dr's 916 had the firewall cut to clear the compressor. Other people have done it in the past. They just weld or rivet a box to cover the hole in the firewall. However it leaves a bulge in the backpad and limits how far you can put the drivers seat back.
I think an electric compressor would be the way to go, except it would probably suck the battery dry pretty quick if your stuck in traffic.

Another reason to stick with a high-performance 4-- "simplified air conditioning."

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Putting A/C in any 914 is not simple, however.

or, go totally to the dark side ...couldn't resist. Hi Steve!

Price or value is relative. In the desert it's priceless. In Alaska it's worthless. If you can get $1500 from George, sell it. Most systems I have seen are in the $300 range from ebay. COndition and completeness will drive price up or down. Have the guy make you an offer. If you get more than $300, it's a bonus.

Now as a buyer, if I have to pay $1000 or more, then I would buy a system from Custom Air or another aftermerket company. At least I would get all new equipment and a modern compressor. Remember it's getting real hard to find R-22. Your old system will have to be converted to R-34 and it may not work with the old compressor seals.

Water cooled!!! Sacrilege!! Just kidding!!! I would love to have a Suby or V8 914, but I don't have the space or money for another toy.

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Here's another version of a hi-po -4 , It is a system I designed for
my application ( being older ,& living in miami ,AC is a must )


thanks Bill D.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914...or-bracket.html

After years of searching, I've come to the conclusion that there is no easy fix. Clay Perrine's setup looked promising, but the forces are too much for the available bolt locations.

Perhaps someone could come up with a way to turn the compressor from a CV joint (obviously would only work when moving), but otherwise there seems to be no good way without cutting the firewall and limiting the driver's seat travel.

The early 911 AC brackets attached to the timing cover 6mm bolts, and also caused problems. These engines were not really engineered for AC back in the day.

A V8 or Subaru conversion is probably the best way to AC a 914!

I googled custom hot rod airconditioning and came up with a page full of companies. Some have under the dash equipment that looked exactly like the DPD ac units.

The addition of a pulley between the CV and the trans-flange works fine for pumps of various sorts... transaxle oil in particular and racecar alternators that run off of the battery when the car is still.

I ran a v-belt pulley (unused) under a borrowed axle for years (came on there and it kept me from losing it) and wondered if the AC compressor would be a good fit there. Despite some naysayers I still think it's a good thing. Fitting would have to be in the trunk or under it very near the exhaust pipes, but it's workable. Certainly easy enough to cut off the compressor when at rest.

Would it hurt the compressor or anything else of it stops working when the car is not moving?

Nope. The clutch normally cycles on and off anyway, and the pulley on a car engine changes speeds constantly, especially with a manual transmission. Technically the axle would make for much slower transitions from slow to fast (except a panic brake) and be a more constant speed Power-Take-Off (PTO).

A more interesting question is what effect the drag would have on a torque-biased differential. Likely not much unless an obstruction on the A/C high side made the compressor work really hard. Clutch-types would be unaffected... ok, maybe a little.

I'm thinking nobody would notice at all.