My car steers like a Mack truck, so I decided to start with new ball joints... I'm mostly working outside in the nice weather days... and up my way (NW Wash..) those are getting few and far between... However, I was able to get the first one replaced today... Disassembly was trial and error... lots of grunting and big hammers.. I used a wedge shaped chisel to separate the 'A' arm from the strut after removing the retaining pin.. that worked OK.... then after several aborted tries at pipe wrenching the lower retaining nut off, I resorted to popping it loose with drift and a big hammer, once I had it started, it came right off. Reassembly started with slipping the new ball joint into the strut and tapping the retaining pin in... which didn't go as far as it should have, so I pulled everything apart again, and found that the new replacement retaining pin had a rather sharp leading edge which dug into the ball joint shaft a bit and prevented it from properly seating... so after filing all the divots out, I put things back together with the old retaining pin, and it sucked in perfectly... It took a bit to get the new ball to move, but I eventually got it to line up with 'A' arm, and lowered the body jack down while supporting the 'A' arm from the underside with blocks, and then used the new retaining nut to finish snugging everything into place... Then the purpose made (and a bit expensive..!) socket was fitted to do the final torquing... It didn't have a real strong hold of the nut, and seamed like it would easily strip out the four lugs holding the nut, so I put a jack under the breaker bar and socket, and lifted until it supported the entire weight of the car, keeping everything tightly together, and then using a bar extension I tightened with everything I had... and the socket held tight... I suspect that I'm in the spec range (140 lbs +/-), but will double check tightness after I've run it a bit to let everything settle in.... Not too bad an afternoon project... now ... if we ever get another sunny day... I'll do the other side, and see if it cured the stiff steering issue. This just goes to show that driving isn't the only way to enjoy a 914... but it surely is something to look forward to!!! Cheers, Dave

A nice sunny day, so I attacked #2... What a pain!!! It was a real trial to get the pin out of the strut!!!! Wedges... hammers... Heat!!!! Finely, it broke free, and the rest was easy... I'm not sure but it probably wouldn't hurt to use some never-seize or something to allow easier removal... after another 35 years!! I haven't road tested the results yet so I still don't know if it will correct the steering issues... but hoping! Dave

good job and im sure it will be worth it. actually, what symptoms lead you to this replacement? just wondering cuz mine is barely starting to move on her own and im getting alot of clunking noises and slop in the front end. thanks, Dave

I too would like to know what led you to replace the ball joints. To see if I have the same issue.

Silver74, try replacing the steering coupler and the tie rod ends first. I changed my coupler and put in one from Tangerine Racing. Night and day difference. The original coupler had so much movement in it. Then I replaced the tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and bearings. Very little slop now.

However, I do have a shimmy when going around corners, hence my interest in ball joint issues.

You need a good high torque impact to remove the ball joints. They fall into the same category as the rear axle nuts. Let them soak with PB Blaster for a day or two. It helps a whole lot.

Do you have any pictures of this process?

Dave

I was too messy to dirty up my camera so I don't have any pictures of the project... and I didn't think it would be a big deal so...??

I decided to replace the ball joints as I felt that the steering was extremely stiff for a lightweight car like ours, and when jacked up in front, the wheel turned very easily, indicating that the rack and pinion was smooth and lubricated... I'll most likely replace the tierod ends in the not too distant future, but as I'm just intending to use it for around town play, I can't see going much deeper... unless...??

I machined the end off the old ball joints and inspected them... what I found was... not much lubricant, and both balls showed quite a bit of surface etching... they ride in a nylon socket that has a lot of spring to it so I expect that I wouldn't have noticed much play... but they support the entire load of the springs working against the weight of the car, and it would be hard to exactly duplicate that for testing purposes.

The ball joint socket I bought to install and torque the new units was off ebay (a little cheeper..) and it was a very nicely machined unit, but doesn't seem to be hardened at all... I don't know if Pelican's is or not, but if it is, it would last longer... Mine worked great as I kept it tightly loaded with the entire front weight on a supporting jack pressing up against the torque wrench and socket so it couldn't slip and round off the four lugs the hold the nut... I don't expect I'll ever do this job again... at least not on this car...!!!

Just used this as a guide, and I got it all apart! The drift was the answer, along with a sledge hammer, of course. I switched over to a dull cold chisel though, and that snapped it free.

Jim

What were the symptoms that made you decide to change the joints? I have a clunking when turning right and going over rough road. Also, if I push on the top of the tire and get it rocking, I can duplicate the sound. The PO put new KYb's intheback, but I don't know if the front inserts were changed or not. I don't really see any slop at the joints, what's to check next?

Joe

In my case, it's the struts actually. When I'd start out in the day, everything was fine. As the car warmed up, including the shocks, there'd be a vibration in the right front, which turned out to be the wheel going into some sort of vertical resonance because of a worn out shock. Also, I'm been meaning to do a 5 lug conversion, and I've had all the parts since 2003, including new ball joints, so I decided now's the time. When I got the strut out, I found I could grab an end in each hand and easily pump it in and out, so it certainly was worn out. My fronts were KYB, replace by the PO probably around 1980.

Jim

Installing new ball joints on a 35+ year old car is a new experience in PAIN!

AMHIK