I have a need to build several ( probably 3) rotisseries in he very near future, and have my own plan of how I want to build it based on some I have used before at other shops. In pre-planning I wanted to see others designs and have been looking at several other styles. Today I happened upon this one. Seems all too appropriate eh ??



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdvgrtTjyPM

Hey Scotty,

While the professionally built rotisseries are very slick, but way to pricey for my budget.

If you noticed the video showed a unit based on 2 engine stands? That's what I used to make my own. I had 1 engine stand and bought the other from Craig's List. I had to cut the verticle support tube on each and weld in an extension for enough height, but the rest was just drilling and bolting. Using some old pipe I had it was pretty easy to do.

You can see that I mounted the chassis via the bumper holes and after just 1 adjustment to the front pivot point, got the car balanced for a very smooth rotation. Even with no bearings, the chassis rotates very nicely.

I'm currently repairing the rust areas of my '73 restoration project and it is a GREAT tool to have. I attached a couple photos, see what you think.

Terry

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment


I built these using 3/16" and 1/4" materal with 1/2" pins & bolts. I am able to lower the cross bar to bolt the car up with the car on the ground and then raise it.
I have not used it on the 914 yet but the healey goes round and round. There may be to much work in this one to justify making three.

I see you used the square pin in the round hole technique!


Whatever works.

I have a similar one. I did not have any problems using the bumper mounts. This is a problem it the car is 75 or 76. I think it would be better if you can reach under and grab some point closer to the center of the car. I restored a rusty car with mine but I wasn't careful enough. I now have door gap problems and I am not sure how I will correct it.

The wench is a really nice touch. So much easier to get the car mounted

My reason for making 3 is I currently have 2 cars at the shop that will be on a rotisserie at the same time and I would like a third for smaller jobs like floor pans. I plan to also build a frame jig that will attach to the car as a dimensionally stable piece, but will also be used in conjunction with the rotisserie. This will in effect give me a frame jig that will also rotate, and I can work on the car with it all in place. I will most likely be using the front suspension points and the transmission mounts for my main attachments, with a box frame under the floor that will attatch to the mounting points to tie it all together. I am also building these to be usd for any type of car so the stands will be universal but the end mounts can be more specific. 914 and 911 can share the front mount but rears will be different, I already have a 356 only one that needs to be blasted, finished, and re-painted.

[quote name='Bartlett 914' date='Nov 13 2010, 01:01 PM' post='1394057']
[quote]

I restored a rusty car with mine but I wasn't careful enough. I now have door gap problems and I am not sure how I will correct it.
[/quote]


The rotisserie is a great tool but in some ways it will accentuate the problems with a rusty car. Whatever bracing one may do with a cvar on jackstands is even MORE important with it on a spit. you now have all of the cars weight distributed between the two ends with the already weak center becoming even weaker. The car MUST be leveld and squared then braced properly THEN put on the rotisserie or you will have nothing but problems. I have done more bracing then alot
I have seen here do and have had cars move on me. I am constantly re-working my methods to get the best possible results.That is why I never made my bracing thread I spoke of a few months back. I had what I thought was the optimal solution, and as I fixed that car I found a couple flaws I have now reworked. If it works out better this time I will make the thread. The issue I ran into was simply that my initial mounting point could have been stronger at the doors, and my floor brace could get in the way on a more extensive repair. I have mentally worked out both issues, but have yet to make the actual mods. The door braces will get extended to bolt onto the seat belt location. Once the 1/4 panel is cut out there is too much flex at the latch post for my liking, and had I needed to replace the WHOLE inner long, my rear brace would have to b removed. I will be relocating it to attach to the firewall, and the side bar wil be removeable



Besides the whole point of this thread was that the guy has a 914 on the one he is trying to sell

I built mine with 2 HF 700# engine stands. Cost me $300 and my labor. Was able to sell it for $400 when I was done, and I would have gotten $500 if I had wanted to not have a super quick sale.

They are easy to make, and will be even easier for you to make then it was for me to make.

Scott - Your back will thank you. Mark

This is the first of two product prototypes we have at my shop.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

The production model uses a Home depot sourced pipe with short square tube ends that have threaded couplers.
One of the square tubes is used to connect the two uprights for compact rolling storage. The uprights unbolt for boxable shipping.
Instead of the welded on casters of the first one, we welded mounting plates for big Harbor Freight locking casters.
The vehicle support bars mount to either early bumper mounts or late bumper shocks.