During the process of switching over from tail shift engine mount to side shift engine mount. I found this bolt strip. I tried to extract it out with the left hand extracting drill bit, then the stud extractor next. Dang that German metal. I snap the extractor in the bolt. Whats my options. Would it be ok to just leave the engine mount with the 3 bolts on the engine mount ?

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Click to view attachment

No way. Sorry, that sucks. Screw extractors are the devils gift to auto mechanics.

The theory is the extractor is made of hi-strength, brittle material. A pointed punch may break it up so you can insert another and break it

I've never broken an extractor so I can't say the above is true, but I would give it a go anyway.

got to fix it, use a carbide drill to remove the extractor bits.

did you drill ALL the way thru teh stud for the extractor, if not, do that next time, drill all the way thru.

soaking over night in penatrating oil can hlep, and fianlly application of heat on the case with a torch will help loosen it up when you try again.

if it is really stuct, you will need heat to help get it out. be sure to drill ALL the way thru teh broken stud for use of an extractor.

No i did not drill through I was a afraid of sending shavings to the other side.
How long do I put the torch to it ? A few mintues ? How will I know if it has enough heat. I take it the carbide is stronger than the stupid cobalt extractor ?

Thanks in advance.

This is a blind hole, so no fear on the shavings.

I had a similar problem. I couldn't get even a carbide drill to go straight. (This was in my mnivan, and I didn't have very good access) I ended up buying a set of small diamond coated grinding cones from Harbor Freight. These would gradually cut away the hardened metal when used with a Dremel tool. It took a while, but if you are careful, you can only remove what you want to.

Thanks for tips. I will look into them.

Dam bolt and extractor is getting worse, I tried some diamond coated crap bits from HF and it just blending all the extractor and bolt today. I tried another left hand bit, but not making progress. Will just the 3 bolts holding my mount to the engine bar be ok. Someone tell me from your experience that it will be ok.

Less hassle and probably less money (if you measure time as money)... have you thought of taking it to a quality machine shop? $20-40 and you're done.

I agree though... heat and lots of it will be your friend.

....Ya...so you can kick his ass(machinist) if he fuch's up

I would not heat it. It's to close to the pump. You will have to put a lot of heat into the easy-out to lower its temper. Enough heat to cause collateral damage.
The only way to find out if 3 bolts is enough is to try it.

No
If you were reinstalling the tail shift mount you might be OK with three bolts since the cross bar bolts directly to the brackets on the engine and that metal to metal connection will spread the load to both engine brackets. Since the side shift cross bar bolts to 2 rubber mounts that bolt to the 2 engine brackets you won't get much distributed load and the rubber mounts will likely allow the bracket to twist under load.

Jim

So I finally found a local guy which had a specialty of removing stripped bolts. Yeah I paid for it, a benjamin later. The guy used some laser to remove it. Just wanted give the world an update.

Right choice and well worth it in my book.

Was his name Luke?

A disruption in the force it was to get it out.

it is difficult for me to disagree with a guy as experienced as Len but i must...
the case is a huge heat sink. it would take well over 5 minutes with a small propane torch on that boss to get the pump area up to 250+. the heat should be applied for one complete song to play on teh radio 3-5 min. the heat only needs to expand and contract the surrounding metal boss enough to break the grip of the corrosion.
only quality tools will work on tough jobs like this. sorry no HF china cheapy crap.
I would have charged $100 or $40 before the broken extractor. sometimes when they come out quickly, Ill just get ya for some lunch money $20
I caution all 914world members that these types of operations require journeyman or higher skill level. if your tool-kung-fu is weak, step away before it kicks your arss...and wallet

Done it many times. If you take your time and have easy access (like you do)
It works well.

"the guy used some laser to remove it. "

Did you actually SEE this laser?

I am having a bit of a hard time believing that he has a kilowatt laser that could do that job.

Not impossible, just too cool to believe without a few brews in me.

Stu

I just use my light saber

One of these perhaps?

now I must hunt you down for revieling my secrets to bolt removal...prepare to die, young master Cevan.

Had I seen this thread earlier, and given your location, I would have told you to call Jim's Tap Extracting. He's the best there is, and he's in the South Bay.

The Cap'n

I've had tooling removed with an EDM machine before, but never seen a laser do it... I'd like to!

EDM (electron discharge machining) would not be suitable for use on an assembled engine since it requires the work piece to be submerged in fluid

Maybe this dude was old school or a hack. My parts were not submersed...

fluid flow is required to prevent carbon build up and to carry away material being removed by electrical dischage between electrode and work peice. oh, and cooling.
there are 2 types: plunged electrode and wire edm. the plunged electrode is great fro burning out broken studs

Eh... Maybe I just forgot. It was probably 6-8 years ago I last needed it.

Jim has burned out any number of broken studs for me, including several on assembled 911 SC cases. He uses an EDM. I've not watched him do it. There is a guy So Cal who will come out to your shop and remove studs in the same manner. I've used him, but I don't think his work is up to the standards I need.

BTW, If you're dropping by his shop, ask him for a tour of Cunningham Rods. Absolutely the most interesting connecting rods I've ever seen, and Jim can explain why they're the BEST con rods on the market, bar none. Makes all those other aftermarket rods look like junk.

The Cap'n

That would be correct, found Jim's Tap Extracting by accident. I brought in my assembled block, no disassebmly required. In simple english, the best way I can explain it was "laser". His sight calls a "electron drill". No I was not there when he disintegrated the bolt. Yup he makes the connecting rods for VW engines used in helicopeters !!!

Check it out if you need something removed. Tell him Ted with the VW block referred you.

http://www.extractit.com/

May the Force be With You !!!