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patssle
Will a 1 5/8 exhaust work fine on a 3.0? I've read the 1 1/2 is better, but not as readily available.

I've been searching, and many threads are several years old. Is GHL no longer available? I read some negative things about B&B from a long time ago, are they better/improved now - or still crap?

Basically looking for some updated opinions on heat exchangers for a 3.0L six. I found a used pair of 5/8 B&Bs...any reason not to go that route?

Thanks.
SLITS
The 1 5/8" you are talking about is O.D. I.D would be 1 1/2" assuming 1/16" metal thickness (never measured it).

Stock 914/6 exchangers are 1 1/2" O.D. and again, assuming 1/16" metal thickness would make them 1 3/8" I.D.
IronHillRestorations
Generally speaking for a street (flat 6) engine, a little small is better than a little too large.

The problem I've had with the B&B is fit and alignment. Sometimes they don't fit right, and sometimes the exhaust flanges don't align with the muffler. Ship them back and forth and it gets pricey, for something that's pricey to begin with.
pete-stevers
I have heard it is much better to run stock(on up to a 3.2) than after market stainless if you really want heat, i think D Root will second this,
i think(..don't quote me) Chappy is running a pair of stock heat exchangers on his turbo 3.1
patssle
Stock is insanely expensive though (found a pair asking for $4,000).

So going B&B can be a gamble? What about Hayward & Scott, any better luck there?
mepstein
I'm also thinking about the H & S heat exchangers. They will make custom sizes.
914Sixer
Check with your Porsche dealer. Last ones I knew about were around $1600 each from Porsche.
IronHillRestorations
The Hayward & Scot h/e's LOOK good, but I don't like the idea of welds inside the heat collectors, and neither does Porsche. Some people died from CO poisoning on some early 911's due to faulty h/e design, that included welds inside the collectors.
patssle
QUOTE(914Sixer @ Nov 15 2010, 05:02 PM) *

Check with your Porsche dealer. Last ones I knew about were around $1600 each from Porsche.


Wait, Porsche still sells stock brand new original /6 HEs?

And $1600 each...per pair or for just 1? Just 1...that's a little expensive.
patssle
QUOTE(9146986 @ Nov 15 2010, 06:04 PM) *

The Hayward & Scot h/e's LOOK good, but I don't like the idea of welds inside the heat collectors, and neither does Porsche. Some people died from CO poisoning on some early 911's due to faulty h/e design, that included welds inside the collectors.


I did read about this issue. People said they installed a monoxide detector just to be safe.
914Sixer
There are two nice sets on Ebay right now.
iamchappy
QUOTE(pete-stevers @ Nov 15 2010, 01:46 PM) *

I have heard it is much better to run stock(on up to a 3.2) than after market stainless if you really want heat, i think D Root will second this,
i think(..don't quote me) Chappy is running a pair of stock heat exchangers on his turbo 3.1


Not anymore, they were too restricting for the turbo, my bigger headers work much better.


But I do know guys are running them on there 3.2's.
Steve
I'm running stock 914-6 heat exchangers on my 3.2 and it runs fine. My 3.2 has tons more power and torque than the previous 2.7 with 1 5/8" headers. It's too bad I didn't get to compare the headers with the heat exchangers for a comparison. I also got my heat exchangers for free, so I can't complain.
Maltese Falcon
I have a cust'r with a 3.2 ( motronic) and NO heater boxes. He has good heat/ defrost in the cabin. He utilized the fan blower atop the engine , which blows accross the barrels, and then ducts the flow into the J-tubes. The result is good cabin heat. The original purpose of the blower was to rid the engine of excess heat after shutdown. In reality, I've never seen anyone use it a a six conversion.
Marty
pete-stevers
QUOTE(Maltese Falcon @ Nov 15 2010, 06:51 PM) *

I have a cust'r with a 3.2 ( motronic) and NO heater boxes. He has good heat/ defrost in the cabin. He utilized the fan blower atop the engine , which blows accross the barrels, and then ducts the flow into the J-tubes. The result is good cabin heat. The original purpose of the blower was to rid the engine of excess heat after shutdown. In reality, I've never seen anyone use it a a six conversion.
Marty

......
Marty you have been holding out on us....
Can you explain in detail, maybe photos too if you have em??
heat
headers
no spensive heater boxes???


thanks..eh?
Maltese Falcon
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(pete-stevers @ Nov 15 2010, 07:02 PM) *

QUOTE(Maltese Falcon @ Nov 15 2010, 06:51 PM) *

I have a cust'r with a 3.2 ( motronic) and NO heater boxes. He has good heat/ defrost in the cabin. He utilized the fan blower atop the engine , which blows accross the barrels, and then ducts the flow into the J-tubes. The result is good cabin heat. The original purpose of the blower was to rid the engine of excess heat after shutdown. In reality, I've never seen anyone use it a a six conversion.
Marty

......
Marty you have been holding out on us....
Can you explain in detail, maybe photos too if you have em??
heat
headers
no spensive heater boxes???
it's just using the fan blower (on top/ left of the 3.2) , once you are below the front sheet metal (with some custom contours)...just split some ducting L and R to the oe 914 heat duct inlets. You will not need to use the stock 914 heater blower , but redirect the 12v power to the new 3.2 fan. Sorry for the grainy pic, this is the same system heating up my 3.2 syncro vanagon.
Marty


thanks..eh?

JmuRiz
Bummer there's no way to do that on an old 2.7 with carbs. Oh well, I guess seat-heaters or a cig-lighter powered heat blanket will be needed in the rare occasion I drive it in chilly weather.
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