So I am converting my '74 914 to a 3.0 with Webers and am going to run a fuel pump in the engine bay. The PO had the car set up with a big 4 running Motec injection using 3/8 aluminum fuel line setup running from the tank to the engine bay with a return line to the tank. There are presently two AN-6 bulkhead fittings which exit just below the battery tray which I will be connecting to.




I'm looking for suggestions on a make and model of a fuel pump to run as well as suggestions for mounting. There is an unused mounting bracket near the fittings which could be easily modified to mount fuel pump. My concern is that it does not interfere with the engine or be located too close for heat reasons. So that is a possibility.

I'm looking for a good pump that will run fairly quietly and will last a long time.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

You only need one line and a low pressure pump. Many flavors to chose from, most make noise, rubber mount it and you will never hear it above the webers.

The pump needs to be lower than the tank. Forget mounting it in the engine compartment. Most pumps like to push, not pull, so mounting it in the front is a good idea.

The Cap'n

I like Facet and the interrupter pump will be the quietest on this page and it's self priming. You only need about 3.5lbs of pressure, 5lbs tops for carbs.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/Facet_Fuel_Pumps

Ditto on having it mounted close to the tank and pushing fluid. Since the interrupter model is self-priming you can consider mounting it higher and/or easier to reach. Regardless, putting it in the front trunk rather than under the tank makes for much easier maintenance on it and the filter. Then you don't have to remove the tank to service either one.

Good luck

I've got a 3.0 with webers and mounted my pump up front. It's a facet blue top. Not the small facet. Althought I have a fuel cell it's mounted below where the stock tank would go. I have a Fram filter between the cell and pump. I made a steel line from the pump through the tunnel to the engine compt. This was done before any ss kits were on the market. Check with Chris Foley at Tangerine Racing he can make the ss line with an fittings. You'll just need one unless you plan a return line. A fuel regulator near the carbs would be good too...Here's the regulator/pressure gauge.

Click to view attachment

I have a Holley Red up front, with a big metal Canton filter.

Not to change the subject too much, but I suggest you poke around that sheet metal shown in the picture. It has that look of badly applied fiberglas, and there's a significant amount of rust bleeding through.

The Cap'n

I have a 3.0 with webbers aswell, I got the CB performance fuel pump and mounted it upfront (since thats where it was from factory on my 75). Works great, very quiet and fairly inexpensive. Dont need a regulator, but I put one on anyways. You'll need the 3.5psi model.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=577

Thanks for all the great responses guys. I guess the pump will go up front after all. I'll need to get creative since I mounted my spare tire against the rear wall of the trunk last weekend....



Out of curiosity, where are y'all drawing your switched power from? I assume you need to run a line directly from the battery to a relay? No? Does the pump draw too much amperage to run it off the fuse box? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Oh, and Cap'n, I'll check into that 'patina' around the battery area

The fuel pump I'm using draws about 1.5 amp. I use a 5 amp fuse from a off-on switch through an inertia fuel pump cut off. I also used some rubber isolators mounted to the body and pump. This is the pump I have. I would use a pressure regulator near the carbs too. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product...acet_Fuel_Pumps

I'm also using the CB Performance fuel pump. I purchased the 3.5 psi model and I'm not running a fuel pressure regulator. On my 75 I installed it up front at the OEM location. Works great and quiet and feeds my 3.0 Webers just fine.

I used a Holly Blue pump on my conversion. Mounted in front. I use the PMO regulator with a return line back to the tank.
Van914

I also used the rotary (Pierburg?) pump mounted up front under the car by the steering rack. It fits with a couple of rubber isolators. Keeping it below the tank and in a location that does not allow fumes or potential leaks into the front trunk seemed like a good idea. The splash guard still fits as well to give it a nice, clean look.

I ran a separate wire to the pump from a dash mounted switch so I can turn the pump on or off as I wish (though an automatic shutoff would also be a good idea). This allows me to shut it off a block or so before arriving at my destination, so the float chamber levels go down a bit. I think it helps with the fuel perculation problems when the hot engine is sitting after shutoff.

Hmmm, good idea on the switch George. That might also serve a secondary function as an anti-theft device.....

You can probably find an original foglight or rear defoster switch at a swap meet or through one of the vendors so it matches the rest of the dash switches. I ran mine through a simple relay, but I don't know if that's really necessary with the rather low draw of the pump.

Same switch as on -'67 bug hazards and defrosters till the early '70's, IIRC.
VW part number and the symbol insert can be popped out and replaced.

I'll be using a Carter pump that I got with the 911 donor car that I got my webers off of.

Whereas the carbs only need one fuel line: I usually run a wire from the origional pump location (on the frame ,under the battery) inside the unused fuel line up front to the new location under the tank. That way I retain all the origional fuses and relays.

Hmmm. Very interesting. I have a 3/8 return line I won't be needing, so perhaps I'll use that...

Rob... this may give you an idea:



I ran a factory black/red wire into the loom:

Wow, that's really clean Eric. Did you just ground the pump to the car body, right at the bracket? Did you pull the pump's power from a switched source on the fuse panel?

A few more questions raised by your pictures.

What is that hard line you have running above your spare?

Also, at what point in the front trunk did you end up running your cooler lines through? I just bought an RX-7 cooler and welded AN -12 fittings to it and am trying to determine the best place to run the (braided nylon) -12 hoses back to the thermostat. I see that some guys run them low, by the trunk floor and some guys run them pretty high up.

I'm pretty sure I want to run the lines under the rocker panels, but am open to suggestions.

Thanks for any input you may have.

Rob

Thanks Rob,

There's a ground buss behind the passengers headlight. I'll pull power from the same place the original one was tied into (yet to be done). That wire now comes into the front compartment with the loom and then goes into the passenger compartment again, with the loom.

That "hardline" is a Seinesystem hood prop. Nothing but a fancy piece of fly rod in my book. An expensive one at that. I may have a line on a more competitively priced version but, have yet to see the samples.

Cooler Lines - In the second picture (previous post), follow the loom to the firewall. Look below where the loom enters... there you'll see the mouse door for the lines. They are modified early 911S lines as per factory GT's. They'll run through the drivers footwell into hardlines going down the rockers. Again, all as a GT would have it. I hope to get the lines this week so I can snap some more pictures.

My jack post was modified for the hard lines:


The sill supports were modified for the lines as well:


Here's the hole going into the drivers side foot well:


The heater tube was modified with an acetolyne torch and some drifts. I wanted to keep heat in the car. Saw this on a factory GT picture.

I've done several fuel pump relocations to the same general area as pictured in Erics post #39. I use some rubber isolators though, and put the fuel filter up there too. On two different installs I also put a inertia cut off switch (one I got from JT Snap) that shuts off the fuel pump in the event of a impact.

It makes fuel filters much easier to replace, up in the front trunk floor.

Are there any keyed power leads up front? I found the electrical for my existing fuel pump was jury rigged to the coil! (very well hidden splice below the engine tin). With the conversion, I want to move it up front as well - but I am not sure where to grab power. Not to hip on having a manual switch.

Thanks!

Eric, car looks awesome!!

I'll look up the part number for the inertia switch and post later for anyone wanting to use one....it's a Ford part and is very useful for any 914 to cut off fuel in case of impact for track or street....

UPDATE.....the Ford part number for the inertia fuel pump cut off switch is: 4W7Z-9341-AA....it's around $40. Mount in an easy access area so you can reset it if needed...It wires between the fuel pump switch, if used, or hot to fuel pump and fuel pump....Two wire connector...it could save your life....thump it with a screwdriver handle to cut power to fuel pump for a anti-theft device.....

Lines came in today...

Hardlines:


Softlines:


Into the cabin:

Nice setup Eric. Is the hard line going to protrude into the driver's compartment?

What will you cover the portion of the lines in the driver's compartment with?

Yes, they come through the holes shown before.

Note sure yet what/if I'll cover them. Some GT's had a metal cover and some had nothing.

since you already have a return line, I'd suggest using it as a return line.

even with a carb set up, your fuel is cooler (slightly more hp, less chance of vapor lock) and technically the whole system is better having a return fuel line.

brant

Isn't the return line fed off the pump which will now be up front?

Yep. The supply and return lines are already plumbed front to rear. I suppose I will simply re-use them and attach my new fuel system to the carbs where they presently terminate (they have AN bulkhead fittings).

Eric, I see the flex lines protrude into the driver's area. My question was whether the hard copper lines also protrude inside - or if rather the flex lines simply continued back outside to the rocker area.

Has anyone tried fabbing up a custom dead pedal to cover those hoses?

Yes, the brass lines come through the hole by the footwell.



Meaning those holes in the side. They go past the heater tubes and into the footwell. Those softlines will connect at the base of the long.

Still confused about the pump. If it's up front, you plumb the return from the pump to tank... right?

Let's just say:

Nipple 1 - Inlet
Center Nipple 2 - Outlet
Nipple 3 - Return direct to tank (no need to run in the center tunnel)

Not sure where you would take a return off your carbs to go back to... what??? When there's pressure on the line, the return nipple (3) will send the excess fuel back to the tank. No?

Could be wrong...

I'm not really familiar with the stock -6 fuel pump
does it have 3 nipples like some of the -4's
just follow a -4 pump diagram is my guess...

This diagram was drawn to show the different ways to put a fuel regulator in.
but it should also show some different ways to route the carb plumbing.

I use option B on the race car

note that option E is basically a factory 4cylinder set up, but could easily work on a 6 also.. and I once ran E on an old 4 cylinder race car.

pictures:

and

I'll be using "Option B" from the diagram. The return line will come off the Holley regulator.

Does that make sense.

I thought stock -6 pumps were set at a certain pressure. Once that pressure was reached on the line the return would feed back into the tank (Basically the "Stock" drawing with the regulator incorporated into the pump).

I want to be certain because I'm finalizing this now. My plans were to go as follows:

1 - Tank to Pump
2 - Pump to Carbs
3 - Return Overflow to Tank

No regulator. Is this right?

B brings the return off of the 2nd carb and not the regulator
their is a regulator in my pictures (with a fuel pressure gauge mounted onto it)

bump...
because I don't know what the stock -6 pumps are like
if they are internally regulated then that would work
I still like to have fuel flowing past the needle and seat so that its not heating up as it sits above the motor waiting to get into the bowl.

I was just working on this last night - now I am concerned too.

My plan was as diagramed below. I was not aware that a return line was needed. I based it on what I *thought* I saw on many 911's, as well as the pic above. Looked nice and clean. Is this incorrect?

My carbed 2.0 ran the cheap Faucet pump for 15 years with no problems - although the carbs were plumbed in series verses going to a central distribution and then branching off.