I got my self a tranny, Im going to attemp to stick it in tomarrow sence I don't have school. I only have access to basic tools at my house I have some jack stands Im going to use. I can't find any tech articals on replacing the tranny I have checked pelican to. So all I have is my haynes manuel. Here are some questions. This is a side shifter transmission.

1. Do I have to drop the engine to take the tranny out
2. Do I need any special tools
3. How long do you think it will take
4. Will this be possible with only 2 people and jack stands
5. Are there any articals out there to help me.

Im sure I will have plenty more once I start.

1. No, and I wouldn't recommend it, for now. You finally have your engine running nicely. Get a jackstand and a length of 4x4 to rest your engine on.

2. The cheesehead (or triple square) CV joint bolt tool Those bolts should NOT be regular allen head bolts, if they are original. Also, a clutch alignment tool is highly recommended. You need a torque wrench to do the job correctly, too.

3. Plan a Saturday, and a pitcher of iced tea.

4. Oh yes. 2 people make the job easy.

5. The Pelican article has a great checklist.

Do you have all the parts you need? You'll need the CV joint gaskets, and I recommend replacing all the CV joint washers (with correct serrated replacements) You want to have some extra CV joint bolts handy, because sometimes they strip. You don't want to put old crap back in. You might want to have extra muffler gaskets on hand, just in case they need replacing when you pull the muffler. Oh, extra "proper" copper exhaust nuts and antisieze.

Don't cheap out on the gaskets, washers and bolts. You're going to ruin the old gaskets when you separate the CV joints.

Do yourself a favor... before you start the job, take the car to the local quarter wash and spray the hell out of the underside. It's already a dirty job, and doing some clean-up in advance makes it easier. then, when you have the transmission out, get some cans of brake cleaner, and clean the gearbox and the underside. You'll be so happy that you did.

After you run the car for a couple hundred miles (someone WILL correct me and post the factory recommended number), get under the car and re-torque the CV joint bolts.

-Rusty

1) No. You just have to be strong, or be able to balance the tranny really well on a floor jack.
2) You need just a basic rachet set for the most part, but you will need a special tool to remove the CV's. It's a 12 point tool if I remember correctly. Your also going to need new gasket's between the cv's and the tranny because for the most part you have to destroy the old seal to get the cv's disconnected from the tranny.
3)The time depends on your mechanical ability, comfort level, and most importantly rusty nut's and bolt's . They are what make most of the job the worst. You'l see .
4) Yes it's very possiable with 2 people and jackstands. For the most part you could do it yourself, but the second person is very helpfull for acutally removing the transmission itself. It's one heavy SOB, and when your pulling on the back ears (where the tranny mount's go through) It's very helpful to have someone balance it, and make sure that it dosn't fall or anything like that.
5) Yes. I would look at the article on the pelican part's site for replacing the clutch. It's show's you how to do everything. Including moving the starter . There is a mystery bolt which you will learn about if you read the article. If you have trouble's with it, just post here, we've all been there and it's an SOB!
Eric

I just reread your post.

Unless you keep a basic stock of service parts (I keep CV joint gaskets in my kitchen... don't ask. ) this is NOT a spur of the moment job.

Plan for a Saturday in a week or two, after you have all the right parts on hand. You don't want to get into this and get stopped by parts.

If I was in your shoes, and had no parts on hand, I'd clean everything and pull the transmission out tomorrow. After cleaning the gearbox & axles, I'd pull the clutch and inspect the disk, pressure plate and flywheel. Once I knew what I needed for the WHOLE job, I could order parts.

This way, if you need to resurface the flywheel, you have time to take it to your local machine shop. If your clutch disk is about to explode (cracks, etc), you know about it and can avoid doing the job twice.

-Rusty

i'm confused.

you've read the procedure in the Haynes, right ?

more things to check:

do you have enough (5,3 US pints) 85W-90 gear oil?
if the new transmission is already out of a car, have you been able to remove & replace the drain and fill plugs (do -not- assume it'll have the proper amount of the correct lubricant) ?
do you have an appropriate CV joint grease for when you re-attach the CV's to the flanges ?

do you understand how to adjust a clutch and the gear selector ?

the consequences of not doing this stuff right can be serious - think about what happens when one of the halfshafts comes loose from the transmission while the car is on the highway. (hint - it's a 50-lb club being flung at high speed in the area of expensive stuff...)

In my manuel I it dosn't say have lots of extra gaskets laying around. So thats why a good tech artical with lots of pictures would help me out alot. Can I buy some type of kit that will have all the gaskets I need. Or do I have to take the tranny out and then see what I need. Also were can I get the cv gaskets at.

all the usual 914 suppliers have CV gaskets - Pelican for sure, Performance probably, Stoddard for sure, Paragon... check the websites.

the manuals usually have good exploded parts diagrams, and i'm sure they can be found on this site if someone will point you the way. (i'm not trying to be coy, i would if i had it, but the link is not on the computer where i'm working today...)

follow along the procedures in the manual and you'll see the things that need replacement.

Pelican doesn't have kits, but they do tend to group things together. look around in the CV-joint area and you'll see stuff - usually with pictures of where they go... they have technical articles too - search the site, search the web - the information is out there. you are going to have to do a certain amount of the legwork yourself ...

make sure you are getting 914 CV gaskets (not just 'Porsche' gaskets) and not VW Bug gaskets. they're different...

I guess Im going to use the Replacing and Adjusting
the 914 Clutch artical to help me get my tranny out I have read it many times and pretty sure I can do it. So I just need the the gaskets and I will probley have to order thoses. Here is another question someone before me put my car on a chamber I already had to rotate my tires once cause its gets really bad wear on the inerside so how do I take my car off the chamber.

Cactus, I think you mean camber. Are the tires that are wearing on the front or back? Front tires wearing on the inside could be an indication of worn out ball joints or tie rod ends, or way too much toe. If ya have to chase the front wheels with the streeing wheel, something is amiss somewhere. I remember seeing a pic of your car from the rear. Rear camber did not look bad in the pics.

P.S. Transmission R&R is not that hard.

Hey my tires are wearing from the back the front tires were in perfect condition. But I rotated them. Im going to probley buy this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

When I change my muffler to my monza the gaskets on it looked great so I think thats all I need so I can get started I guess I will have to wait tell next week to stick it in. I was hoping for today cause driving my car with only 1st 3rd 5th gear is kinda a pain. Also anyone who wants to come by next week and help me turn some wrenchs on my tranny is more then welcome.

uh, cv gaskets are a buck each at HPH, Pelican, or most anywhere else.

Rear tires wearing on the inside is an indication of the toe being off. Take it to an alignment shop. Like I said before, your car doesn't appear to have that much negative camber. At least from your pics.

Good luck, Curt

Here is another option I called the only place in town Foreign Auto that will stick my tranny so they said it will cost me $350 bucks for labor. I know I could do it for alot cheaper But this way I know I could get it done right. This will be my first tranny job Im only 16 years old and still learning alot I just don't want to have learn anything the hard way on this car and cost me even more money. But if its something not to hard I would like to try and do it.

Cactus, do it your self and use the 350 bucks for something you cannot do yourself. You will only need one special tool that will be available locally to you. If not, I'll send you one of mine.

You can do it. We can help. There are lots of folks here that can give you blow by blow instructions.

Do you already have the new (used) tranni?

I saw your tires Kris. Typical 914 wear pattern. You can (and should) get an alignment. Your rear camber may be a bit too negative, but not that much. You could take some of the camber out, but the car won't handle as well. The camber could be at an overly aggressive setting now, which would give you more wear on the inside than say a street canber setting will. It all depends on what you want to do with the car. If you never intend to autoX or race the car, then perhaps you should have the camber changed to a setting that is less negative and therefore produce less wear.

'Sup to you...

Do the transaxle yourself and save the $350. You just need to get the necessary parts to do the job... first.

ok I have everything off and almost ready to drop the old tranny. but I just can't get the transmission mounts nuts lose I have tryed everything why are they so tight.

spec book calls for transmission carrier bolts to be torqued to 2,0 mkg. if they're really tight now, they've either rusted in place, or a previous hamfisted mechanic used his trusty air impact wrench and wailed away on 'em for a while. or both...

removing them now can lead to damaged fasteners, if they aren't already wonky. inspect them really well and be prepared to replace them if the threads are distorted.

They are also bolts, so you have to hold the top while removing the nut.

Lots of PB Blaster (or similar) is a good idea.

Well I got my tranny out now but now my engine is sagging to the ground I hope that is not bad. Im hold my engine up with a jack.

Sagging to the ground, or tiltinga little bit?

If it's sagging to the ground, yes, that's A Bad Thing (as DD would say). You're putting severe stress on the motor mounts and the motor mount bar where it attaches to the car.

Tilting back/down a little bit isn't bad, as long as it's firmly supported with a jack and a jackstand. Don't ever rely on a hydraulic jack for long term support.

-Rusty

Ya it was just tilting a bit so it scared cause I wasn't sure if it was suppose to do that. I got my old tranny out and all the parts I need off it and on my new. Here some quesitons.

1.What type of tranny oil do I stick in it Im going to buy that today once I find out.
2.Do I repack the cv joints with grease if they already have some in there.
3.Is there anything else I should check while my tranny is out.

Thanks for all the help.

That tranny's been sitting for about 7 years. (gee... how does he know that?)

I would get some fairly "standard" off the shelf gear lube the weight recommend in the manual. Get "cheap" stuff and run it for a few hundred miles. Change. Repeat and then get SWEPCO. The SWEPCO should cost around $45.00.

The lube looked decent when I drained it last week but after sitting that long I'd just be concerned with any "crud" that may have built up in the bottom of the case.

Other things to look for have pretty much been covered. I'd say new shift rod bushings would make a "world" of difference while you're down there.

Well the oil in my old tranny was green pal black color. I already replaced all the shift rod bushing a couple weeks ago thinking that would fix my tranny problems.

Ok I got the tranny in everything hooked up and now when Im trying to drive I have no power at all in any gears. Im power less Im thinking it could be cause I don't have the clutch cable adjust right so it could not be releasing the clutch all the way out or something like that. But the good news all my gears work.