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pete000
I know this relay was involved in the seat switches, which mine is by passed, but does it run anything else on the car?

Was there a smaller relay next to it?

Mine does not seem to have the smaller one.

Thanks

dr914@autoatlanta.com
large is the interlock the small is the buzzer.

QUOTE(pete000 @ Nov 24 2010, 03:58 PM) *

I know this relay was involved in the seat switches, which mine is by passed, but does it run anything else on the car?

Was there a smaller relay next to it?

Mine does not seem to have the smaller one.

Thanks

dr914@autoatlanta.com
your yellow and yellow with red leads have not been connected together (factory bypass) so you will have to keep your relay plugged in.

QUOTE(pete000 @ Nov 24 2010, 03:58 PM) *

I know this relay was involved in the seat switches, which mine is by passed, but does it run anything else on the car?

Was there a smaller relay next to it?

Mine does not seem to have the smaller one.

Thanks

jim_hoyland
I have one in my '75 and it was bypassed. I'ed like to know how they were wired and worked. Is there anything out there that explains how each of the terminals function ?
bembry
Per George's reply: What is the interlock? All I had ever heard of was the buzzer.
mepstein
I would like to know how to remove it permanently.
championgt1
QUOTE(bembry @ Dec 22 2010, 06:04 PM) *

Per George's reply: What is the interlock? All I had ever heard of was the buzzer.


Without the seatbelts fastened the car would not start. This worked in conjunction with the buzzer and the fasten seat belt light.
bembry
Is there a difference per each model year?

Do all years have the buzzer? The Interlock?
championgt1
Good question. For sure 74 and later. Not sure about earlier cars.
jt914-6
QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 22 2010, 08:34 PM) *

I would like to know how to remove it permanently.

Unplug and remove it. Connect the two large yellow wires together. One solid yellow and the other yellow with red stripe. Take a test light and check the smaller wires for 12v with the key on. I have one black wire that hot with the key on. Seal the one (s) that are hot against grounding.

As far as I know that system was only used on the '74-76...My '74 had it on it.
r_towle
QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 22 2010, 09:34 PM) *

I would like to know how to remove it permanently.

Make a small male male 8 gauge wire about 2 inches long.
Unplug and remove the logic circuit box (its not a relay) and plug the male ends of your new jumper wire into the yellow/yellow red wires.

Rich
JeffBowlsby
You need the double male connector.

mepstein
What about all the other (under the seat) wires? I would like to delete as much as I can. Thanks, mark
r_towle
I had my father (retired EE) reverse engineer this thing a few years back...maybe more than a few.
I posted the diagram here (club/world prior to break)
I no longer have the diagram...it may be here.

Its all useless stuff...
Its all related to the seats pressure sensors, the seatbelt latch sensors, and the door opening light switch/sensor, and all of that starts a buzzer (which needs power) and lights up a light on the dash( which also gets power)
the rest of the wires are grounds.

Rich
Eric_Shea
I want mine gone to... I'd love to dredge up Rich's thread. It should be here somewhere.
sixnotfour
From Blowsby, Rich has posts here also;
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...41066&st=25
Dave Darling;
The only power-in on the relay is on the following terminals:
15 (black wire) constant power.
L (yellow/red wire) switched power--after it goes through the warning light.
C (yellow wire) power when the key is in "start" only.
H (grey/yellow wire) switched power, which runs the "door ajar" buzzer
popcorn[1].gif
914werke
Another classic thread resource!
dflesburg
I agree, re-wire that crap.
Drums66
QUOTE(bembry @ Dec 22 2010, 06:04 PM) *

Per George's reply: What is the interlock? All I had ever heard of was the buzzer.


...All I had ever heard was the buzzer biggrin.gif poke.gif
(most people bypass....do what you like?)
flipb
FWIW, My '74 still has the interlock. I think it's kind of charming or something. Although annoying when all you want to do is test something that requires a running engine.

It's a little strange how it works, and it may be due to some loose connections, but here's what I've found:

1. The car won't start unless the driver's belt is buckled.
2. If there's a passenger in the RH seat (pressure sensor), the car won't start unless both belts are buckled. (In my car, this one is sporadic - sometimes works unbuckled)
3. The seat belt latch has to have a pretty solid connection. I've had to unbuckle/rebuckle to get it to work on occasion.
4. This is the one that confuses me - When I have to start the engine a few times in a row, I've tried to buckle the belt without being in the car; just across the seatback. Then I sit down on top of belt so that I can clutch/brake and turn the key... and it doesn't work! Somehow it knows I'm faking and I've had to unbuckle, put the seatbelt on correctly, and buckle before the engine will start.

Supposedly, there's some sort of bypass... holding the key to "start" for several seconds, or trying several times in a row... i just can't remember what it is.

jt914-6
The "bypass" is give it the "float test"......then connect the yellow's together..... smash.gif
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