I am trying get a cam for my engine. I have gotten several camshaft recommendations however I am trying to find out all of my options. I have been interested in one of Raby's kits however I already have all of the parts except the camshaft so it doesn't make sense for me to buy a while kit (I even have a four new sets of lifters from different companies (webcam, scat?...)- thanks to my neighbor).

Here are the questions:
-which cam
-FI or Carbs...
-What are you using your car for- street, auto-x...
-did you have any issues with valve/piston clearance
-would you recommend the cam
-any other observations

Thanks!

you probably already know this but, be REAL careful mixing lifters/camshafts especially while breaking in the motor. it's ultra important to use the proper oil and proceedures. you may want to sort thru jakes advise about a matched cam set first

over and over i've read of these solid lifter cams being completely wiped out in as little as several hundred miles.

you may even swap in weaker valve springs for break in, i would imagine your cam will be abit agressive

I see.

I was planning on using matched sets. I have 4 different new sets of lifters from different companies. I have a set of webcam lifters, scat lifters and two others but I cannot remember the brand. If I get a cam from a different company, I will buy a new set of lifters.

Thats crazy how fast unmatched sets can rip up a cam.

Just curious (this is not my plan) but can you use a used set of lifters on a new cam. The reason that I ask is because I have a set of webcam lifters with about 2000 miles on them. Can I use them on a new webcam or should I just throw them away. Not big deal cause I have a new set also. Just curious.

I'm running a 2366 (71 x 103) with weber 44's and headers. ~10:1 CR and am using a Scat cam with 298* advertised duration and ~.500 lift. The duration @.050" is 262*. The Scat cams and lifters are very reasonably priced. They have the "lube a lobe" lifters with a small hole in the lifter that provides oil directly to the cam. The engine feels very strong, but I haven't dynoed it yet so I can't report any numbers.

if i'm correct the cam and lifters should be from the same manufacture, because they are matching or equal in hardness and whatever other qualities that help them wear properly together. i don't know if a new web cam and then older web lifters from another date would be considered a match or not. i definately wouldn't use the used lifters unless they are with the used cam... and in the same order.

if you haven't read up on the proper break in oils to use, that would be a good thing to do. new oils have taken zink and potasium out for emmission reasons. solid lifter cars are now dieing agonizing deaths everywhere.

I just had a 2270 built with a 163/86b on 1.065 B/C. I have 45 Dells for the carbs. The car is intended for the street and maybe DE or AX, however its probably a street car first. The motor is in the garage not in a car so I don't have anything else to offer you.

Just because cams and lifters are from the same company, doesn't mean anything.. They must also be from the same era to be matched.

I KNOW that Web has used cam blanks from 3 different suppliers in the last 10 years, and that they have used lifters from at least 4 suppliers in the past as well. Mix an incompatible era of cam and lifter and the results are just as bad as swapping manufacturers. One of those cam blanks suppliers is HORRIBLE and we refuse to have our Web cams ground on those blanks, doing so results in failure with our lifters and processes and I know that.

These things are critical to proper compatibility. One has to experience complete engine failure in less than 80 miles to understand just how serious this is.

Mix a used set of lifters to a new cam and if you don't have a failure very early make sure you play the lottery that day, because you are one lucky guy. I am not exagerating.

It took us 20 months to create the ultimate combination of lobe taper, lifter radii and processes to have 6 years of fail-proof operation in both our engines as well as our purchasers. It took a spin-tron device that we built ourselves and months of making alterations to the combinations. This was done with ZERO assistance from any cam or lifter MFR- they wouldn't help, to them what they offered was already "aceeptable".

This is the one area of the engine where you don't take risks. Saving a dollar can cost you thousands.

......Your cam and lifters should be "parkerised". This is a lubericating coating which will protect these parts during break in....If they are not "parkerised" rest assured the manufacturer took a short cut on quality....AFTER...you inspect your cam and lifters, send them off to a quality camgrinder to get them "parkerised". Disassembly of hydrolic lifters is necessary before shipping. A prime source of premature failure is a LACK of valve retainer/ to Valve guide CLEARANCE, inadequate valve springs and tension.(causing the lifter to "bounce"on the cam). Micropolish the outer radus of the lifter, ensuring an absolutely smooth radus from the face of the lifter to well past the "edge". No burrs, no nicks, no dings...just baby ass Smooth edges.

Parkerizing (also called phosphating and phosphatizing) is a method of protecting a steel surface from corrosion and increasing its resistance to wear through the application of an electrochemical phosphate conversion coating

This is one of the processes that are carried out on our lifters.. Applying this process to camshafts proved not as effective as the process being used on lifters and the break in was much quicker.

I tried parkerizing both the camshaft and lifters and that didn't work at all.

No matter which processes are carried out, good oil is mandatory, especially during the work hardening processes that continue for the first couple thousand miles for most engines.

I'll be sharing some UOA from our oil development program at the end of this week on my forums.. Wait till you see how much of a reduction in wear metals can come from a proper "switch" of lubricants in a back to back test.. Then see the differences between a roller cam engine and a standard flat tappet engine.

But none of this is helping the OP, he probably already knew it.. The 163/86B is a good cam for a 2270 when ground on a 1.065 B/C but it does require dual springs and should be applied with ported heads making a minimum of 190 CFM/ intake with no less than a 70% I/E flow margin. I use that Web grind as a bade for many of our custom cams..