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Randal
222 isn't here at my house, so can't get the measurement I need.

What I'm looking for is the longest run on the steering colunm where you could install one of these inline devices:

http://electricpowersteering.net/index.php...586d61ffddb90af

Maybe there is enough room.

Thanks for the help.
Chris Hamilton
Thats an interesting idea! is that just the module from a Prius or other hybrid power steering with a metal plate bolted on or does the ECU have to be modified?

I think the best place to put that is the part of the steering shaft after the final U joint where it goes into the column. This would only work if you have relocated the fuel cell, but you've already done that on 222 right?

It might be easier just to use the entire rack from a car with electric power steering like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-INSIG...s#ht_500wt_1155
Randal
QUOTE(Chris Hamilton @ Dec 2 2010, 04:15 PM) *

Thats an interesting idea! is that just the module from a Prius or other hybrid power steering with a metal plate bolted on or does the ECU have to be modified?


Don't know yet Chris, but I've asked for specifications, including dimensions.
byndbad914
I've been considering an OEM rack swap as well but can say that for me I am finding a lot of the offset steering input racks like the Honda shown - I suspect one might have difficulty routing the steering down between the floor mount pedals, etc... even if you get the steering arm to go between two of the pedals, the angle may mean you get interference with your foot when you depress them. With my car right now I juuuuuust clip the steering rod here and there with the toe of my shoe when I hammer the throttle down. If I were going more directly down to an offset rack I would have interference for certain.

I can't see Randal's link as work is blocking that site, I will check that out later... sounds like some sort of inline item. If that is the case I will be really interested. The only one I found was really expensive, like $6K! I found a google link to Randal's site saying $995 in the content so curiosity is piqued.

edit - here is the one I saw, and yeah, $6K wacko.gif
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/prod...8/s0001/FR40105
J P Stein
The Gen 2 MR2 steering rack (& electronic controls) may be cheep enough from a bone yard to see iff'n you can make it work.
Randal
QUOTE(byndbad914 @ Dec 3 2010, 12:56 PM) *

I've been considering an OEM rack swap as well but can say that for me I am finding a lot of the offset steering input racks like the Honda shown - I suspect one might have difficulty routing the steering down between the floor mount pedals, etc... even if you get the steering arm to go between two of the pedals, the angle may mean you get interference with your foot when you depress them. With my car right now I juuuuuust clip the steering rod here and there with the toe of my shoe when I hammer the throttle down. If I were going more directly down to an offset rack I would have interference for certain.

I can't see Randal's link as work is blocking that site, I will check that out later... sounds like some sort of inline item. If that is the case I will be really interested. The only one I found was really expensive, like $6K! I found a google link to Randal's site saying $995 in the content so curiosity is piqued.

edit - here is the one I saw, and yeah, $6K wacko.gif
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/prod...8/s0001/FR40105



It is an inline system. I'm going to call them Monday and ask for a detailed specification sheet and also pictures of a typical installation.

The price is $995.

Here is their contact information:

EPS Electric Power Steering Specialists
4504-A Candy Ln
Tyler Texas 75701
903-581-0008
byndbad914
they have a circle track one too that comes with some joints, etc for the same price, may try to find out if there is a difference, or if it is the same thing with mo' parts for the same money (always take mo' parts!)

http://electricpowersteering.net/index.php...586d61ffddb90af

I would ask:

1. if it has an adjustable boost level, or if it is constant, or variable (doubt that considering the price but adjustable boost would be good).

2. how many amps it draws - I have a pretty big alternator in my car so I might have capacity but a lot of racers use the smallest amp alternator they can to keep HP draw minimized.

At $1K I am definitely interested...

Oh yeah, the MR2 rack, I have considered that as well as another V8'er did a conversion on one of these forums but I haven't dug that deep as of late. The reduced scrub radius has helped me a bunch, but 10" slicks are still a PITA with a manual rack.
Randal
QUOTE(byndbad914 @ Dec 6 2010, 12:37 AM) *

they have a circle track one too that comes with some joints, etc for the same price, may try to find out if there is a difference, or if it is the same thing with mo' parts for the same money (always take mo' parts!)

http://electricpowersteering.net/index.php...586d61ffddb90af

I would ask:

1. if it has an adjustable boost level, or if it is constant, or variable (doubt that considering the price but adjustable boost would be good).

2. how many amps it draws - I have a pretty big alternator in my car so I might have capacity but a lot of racers use the smallest amp alternator they can to keep HP draw minimized.

At $1K I am definitely interested...

Oh yeah, the MR2 rack, I have considered that as well as another V8'er did a conversion on one of these forums but I haven't dug that deep as of late. The reduced scrub radius has helped me a bunch, but 10" slicks are still a PITA with a manual rack.


I talked to the guy down in Texas and he is sending me the installation instructions which I can forward. (edit) I now have the instructions, showing the complete installation in a Polaris email me if you want a copy).

This unit just might work given that there isn't much more room in a Polaris than in a 914 and beefy part of the unit is perpendicular to the shaft.

He didn't know the amps it draws, but would check. I guess whatever sized alternator that they run on a Rhino would tell you something.
The unit is not adjustable.
He offered that the right way to buy the units is to look at various little 4 x 4's, like a Rhino, and pick which "kit" most likely fit your installation and then you get all the fittings and u-joints with the kit. He said there was a sale at $895 for some of these.
byndbad914
Wow, that is out of a Polaris! They said keep the car lighter than 2900 lbs but a Polaris will be way, way lighter than that, so I am now wondering just how sturdy that unit is with a car at 2800 lbs with driver (my setup), going thru a turn with massive slicks in the 100 mph range unsure.gif Steering is one of those things I always take particular caution with as having the gears strip out in that unit and losing steering at 100mph mid corner would make for an exciting ride.

They do say they use it in circle track, so loading would be similar in terms of weight and grip, but I would be interested in actually seeing cars that have ran these - I haven't heard of it as most just run small, belt-driven power steering pump and the alternator tends to be small, often integrated into the water pump pulley, so electronics tend to be kept to a minimum.

edit - Randal, do you still have my personal email addy? I would be interested in checking out the instructions even tho' expect them to be really straight forward.
Randal
QUOTE(byndbad914 @ Dec 6 2010, 12:44 PM) *

Wow, that is out of a Polaris! They said keep the car lighter than 2900 lbs but a Polaris will be way, way lighter than that, so I am now wondering just how sturdy that unit is with a car at 2800 lbs with driver (my setup), going thru a turn with massive slicks in the 100 mph range unsure.gif Steering is one of those things I always take particular caution with as having the gears strip out in that unit and losing steering at 100mph mid corner would make for an exciting ride.

They do say they use it in circle track, so loading would be similar in terms of weight and grip, but I would be interested in actually seeing cars that have ran these - I haven't heard of it as most just run small, belt-driven power steering pump and the alternator tends to be small, often integrated into the water pump pulley, so electronics tend to be kept to a minimum.

edit - Randal, do you still have my personal email addy? I would be interested in checking out the instructions even tho' expect them to be really straight forward.



PM sent dry.gif
sean_v8_914
1992-94 MR2 is Hydraulic with speed sens electric pump. fits in 914. pics died with my hard drive last year, sorry. pump with integrated resivoir fits fwd of tank mounted on bulkhead. 10 amp wiring straight to batt with power on relay. cut rack ends, machine tap for 911 turbo ends. fab holding bracket looked like an old Rod simpson v8 how he monted to stock eng bar w U bolts to the cross member. add hard stops welded to cross member
it fits
sean_v8_914
custom high presure lines go thru center of floor like renegade rad hose location.
SirAndy
QUOTE(Randal @ Dec 2 2010, 02:16 PM) *
power steering

If you have money to burn, Smart Racing makes a complete kit that fits the 914 ... shades.gif

Click to view attachment
DanT
Ouch sad.gif
Chris Hamilton
Dan you have a Prius right?

How do you like the electric power steering in it, do you think it feels like it would stand up to autocross/track use in a 914?
byndbad914
Randal - didn't get the PM, so dunno what happened with delivery but maybe try again.

Sean - thanks for the info, that is good to know. You mention cutting the rack ends and machining them, is the rack wider than the stock 914 rack? So that when you cut it down you cut it to a stock length to keep the tie rod mount location relative to the lower A arm for straight line bumpsteer stability? I am assuming you are cutting off a decent amount and removing all of the existing Toyota threading, correct?

I actually need to narrow the stock rack a bit now with my new dual A, but am asking this for personal edification as well as for anyone considering a stock 914 replacement.

oh yeah, and what is the pickup for the speed sensor for the sensitive steering input?
Randal
QUOTE(byndbad914 @ Dec 6 2010, 10:47 PM) *

Randal - didn't get the PM, so dunno what happened with delivery but maybe try again.

Sean - thanks for the info, that is good to know. You mention cutting the rack ends and machining them, is the rack wider than the stock 914 rack? So that when you cut it down you cut it to a stock length to keep the tie rod mount location relative to the lower A arm for straight line bumpsteer stability? I am assuming you are cutting off a decent amount and removing all of the existing Toyota threading, correct?

I actually need to narrow the stock rack a bit now with my new dual A, but am asking this for personal edification as well as for anyone considering a stock 914 replacement.

oh yeah, and what is the pickup for the speed sensor for the sensitive steering input?



Ping me back your email address at randalbarrick@gmail.com
sean_v8_914
we ran it at constant on power. it uses a 0-5vdc from teh toyota ecu. with 12" meats it has good feel. others who are smarter and have more time can use the toyota power steering ecu with a summit racing digital speedo drive
I can measure the toyota rack later today
byndbad914
QUOTE(sean_v8_914 @ Dec 7 2010, 09:45 AM) *

we ran it at constant on power. it uses a 0-5vdc from the toyota ecu.

So what did you use inline to reduce the 12V batt supply down to 5V? Just a simple inline converter? If so, what was the brand (no reason for me to reinvent the wheel if you have one that you have proven to work smile.gif )
sean_v8_914
digi key 5v switching power supply 12vdc input 5vdc out @ 1.5A $28 back in 2001
ge9146
Here is the address of another set up that looks interesting. I don't know much about it but it is set up for 911s. It appears that the company may be Dutch.
Has anyone heard anything about this product or company?

http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/index.php?p=3&a=NTc

This might be quick to adapt to a 914.
stewteral
QUOTE(Randal @ Dec 2 2010, 02:16 PM) *

222 isn't here at my house, so can't get the measurement I need.

What I'm looking for is the longest run on the steering colunm where you could install one of these inline devices:

http://electricpowersteering.net/index.php...586d61ffddb90af

Maybe there is enough room.

Thanks for the help.


Hey Randal,

I have to ask a DUMB QUESTION: Why would anyone need power steering on a 914?

On my V8 conversion toy (weighing 2600 lbs.) I play on the Streets of Willow Springs, a very tight and slow track, running 255 x17 Hoosier DOT slicks on the front and a 13" steering wheel. It's quite comfortable to drive.

If one were doing AXs, with the very slow speeds and tight turns, simply reducing caster from 6 degrees to 3 or 4 would reduce the steering effort greatly.

Am I missing something here?

Best,
Terry
grantsfo
QUOTE(stewteral @ Dec 17 2010, 10:49 PM) *



Hey Randal,

I have to ask a DUMB QUESTION: Why would anyone need power steering on a 914?

On my V8 conversion toy (weighing 2600 lbs.) I play on the Streets of Willow Springs, a very tight and slow track, running 255 x17 Hoosier DOT slicks on the front and a 13" steering wheel. It's quite comfortable to drive.

If one were doing AXs, with the very slow speeds and tight turns, simply reducing caster from 6 degrees to 3 or 4 would reduce the steering effort greatly.

Am I missing something here?

Best,
Terry


I can appreciate why Randal would want this. especially if he is going with a quicker ratio. Tough to compare streets to very tight ax crouses we see in Nor Cal. I have driven streets and it's not as brutal as most ax events I drive. I find that even the boxster with power steering at times gets to be a handfull in ax due to it's big slicks.

Less effort put into steering let's you focus better as well.
stewteral
QUOTE(grantsfo @ Dec 18 2010, 09:32 AM) *

QUOTE(stewteral @ Dec 17 2010, 10:49 PM) *



Hey Randal,

I have to ask a DUMB QUESTION: Why would anyone need power steering on a 914?

On my V8 conversion toy (weighing 2600 lbs.) I play on the Streets of Willow Springs, a very tight and slow track, running 255 x17 Hoosier DOT slicks on the front and a 13" steering wheel. It's quite comfortable to drive.

If one were doing AXs, with the very slow speeds and tight turns, simply reducing caster from 6 degrees to 3 or 4 would reduce the steering effort greatly.

Am I missing something here?

Best,
Terry


I can appreciate why Randal would want this. especially if he is going with a quicker ratio. Tough to compare streets to very tight ax crouses we see in Nor Cal. I have driven streets and it's not as brutal as most ax events I drive. I find that even the boxster with power steering at times gets to be a handfull in ax due to it's big slicks.

Less effort put into steering let's you focus better as well.


OK, I hear what you are saying and lighter steering is easier to turn.

However, "back in the day" I took a bunch of TTOD with my Dad's 289 Cobra with NO Power steering and fat slicks in SCCSCC events and ended the year with a 2nd overall in class in the SCCSCC-NCCSCC run-offs held in St. Maria. The Cobra had a V8 in the front end!

Just saying.......smile.gif

Forget NOT, the immortal words of Hunter Thompson, Fear & Loathing in Las Vegas: "More SPEED! Christ, are we Old Ladies?"

Terry
byndbad914
I think there is a question of semantics here - need v. want. And everything with a race car falls under the category of want biggrin.gif The only car I need is the one that gets me to and from work and that is loosely interpreting need.

So while I can run a whole track day with my car and a manual rack, my right shoulder is pretty much junk and the two days that follow are literally irritating, so finding a solution to reduce the load on it might not make the car faster or better, but I can enjoy the day and the two that follow a lot more.
charliew
My experience with 4x4 toys is they are very light duty compared with the real thing. I have had a 92 polaris since it was new and it is powerful but has the engineering of a antique. I know the newer stuff must be better but the mr2 is probably much better engineered than any toy parts out there. I know racing mileage is not like street mileage but why go to the install headache and four years later need to get the real thing and do it over. Also try to buy a toy 4x4 part 7 or 8 years down the road and really get a shock over the price and availability.
Randal
QUOTE(stewteral @ Dec 17 2010, 10:49 PM) *

QUOTE(Randal @ Dec 2 2010, 02:16 PM) *

222 isn't here at my house, so can't get the measurement I need.

What I'm looking for is the longest run on the steering colunm where you could install one of these inline devices:

http://electricpowersteering.net/index.php...586d61ffddb90af

Maybe there is enough room.

Thanks for the help.


Hey Randal,

I have to ask a DUMB QUESTION: Why would anyone need power steering on a 914?

On my V8 conversion toy (weighing 2600 lbs.) I play on the Streets of Willow Springs, a very tight and slow track, running 255 x17 Hoosier DOT slicks on the front and a 13" steering wheel. It's quite comfortable to drive.

If one were doing AXs, with the very slow speeds and tight turns, simply reducing caster from 6 degrees to 3 or 4 would reduce the steering effort greatly.

Am I missing something here?

Best,
Terry



This isn't for 222, i.e., my lightweight car. It doesn't need power steering.

No this would be for a car like The Beast, with huge slicks, so that an individual without huge strength could drive it around an autox. cheer.gif Does that fill in the missing piece?

On the other hand IMHO having a good power steering system would definitely help your driving at an autox or at the track.
diggatron
Here is an idea, fellas:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2303120/1975...sche-914/page-3

This 914 (I know I know, you guys are all well aware of this car) has the steering rack from a VW Corrado. What we (In the VW community) have done for a while is to use the power steering pump from the Subaru XT6. Pretty easily adapted to the power steering rack and doesnt require any computer programming.
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