Cheapsnake
Dec 6 2010, 06:56 PM
It's been two years since I started this project and when I finally get to put it back together I forget how it came apart. Usually not a problem cuz I figure it out eventually, but the rear trunk latch has me stumped. The pushbutton and lower latch I've got nailed but the part that goes on the lid is driving me nuts. Its bolt pattern fits the hood exactly and it mates fine with the other piece. However, it doesn't bolt up since there is a nut on the backside that prevents it from sitting flat against the lid. What gives?
Click to view attachmentTom
mojorisen914
Dec 6 2010, 06:58 PM
Is it due to different model year? I thought the rear latch assy would fit all model years. I'm not close to my car so I can't run out and take a look. Someone else will chime in shortly, I'm sure.
SirAndy
Dec 6 2010, 07:04 PM
QUOTE(Cheapsnake @ Dec 6 2010, 04:56 PM)
What gives?
Either your nut is too big or someone made your hole smaller ... Is that bondo flaking off?
mepstein
Dec 6 2010, 07:09 PM
I just pulled mine off today and after removing the two bolts, it dropped right out, no tricks needed.
SLITS
Dec 6 2010, 07:14 PM
Make the hole larger .....
Get a smaller nut ....
Grind the nut down so it will fit.
"don't raise the bridge ... lower the water"
Cheapsnake
Dec 6 2010, 07:25 PM
QUOTE(SLITS @ Dec 6 2010, 05:14 PM)
Make the hole larger .....
Get a smaller nut ....
Grind the nut down so it will fit.
"don't raise the bridge ... lower the water"
Works for me.
Andy, that's NOT bondo, it's actually old flaked paint that I thought the latch would cover. BUSTED!!
Tom
McMark
Dec 6 2010, 07:55 PM
There is foam in that area from the factory. Pieces of the could have shifted. The 'ducktail' spoilers can also impact this area if they're installed poorly. If this were a car that was in my shop, I would be thinking, "What surprise is going to rear it's head now?" It should slip right in, so something has changed. Rust?
Cheapsnake
Dec 7 2010, 07:17 AM
QUOTE(McMark @ Dec 6 2010, 05:55 PM)
There is foam in that area from the factory. Pieces of the could have shifted. The 'ducktail' spoilers can also impact this area if they're installed poorly. If this were a car that was in my shop, I would be thinking, "What surprise is going to rear it's head now?" It should slip right in, so something has changed. Rust?
Actually, that area is in very good shape, with no obvious damage or alterations. The recess that the nut is supposed to fit into is factory formed, not just a punched hole but a "cup" with nicely radiused edges - not something a DIY'er is likely to do. Anyway, I'm grinding the nut down and it's going to work. Still, the mystery continues. Thanks all for the responses.
Tom
dr914@autoatlanta.com
Dec 7 2010, 09:14 AM
The relief where the nut should fit has been bondoed smaller!!!!!
QUOTE(Cheapsnake @ Dec 6 2010, 05:56 PM)
It's been two years since I started this project and when I finally get to put it back together I forget how it came apart. Usually not a problem cuz I figure it out eventually, but the rear trunk latch has me stumped. The pushbutton and lower latch I've got nailed but the part that goes on the lid is driving me nuts. Its bolt pattern fits the hood exactly and it mates fine with the other piece. However, it doesn't bolt up since there is a nut on the backside that prevents it from sitting flat against the lid. What gives?
Click to view attachmentTom
Cheapsnake
Dec 7 2010, 07:08 PM
Mystery solved, and no the hole was not bondoed smaller or altered in any way. I checked a spare hood I had off a parts car and sher nuff, it had a different latch with a different nut (15mm vs 17mm) that fits the hole just fine. For anybody interested, the latch piece with the smaller nut , the one on the right is from a 73.
Click to view attachment
McMark
Dec 7 2010, 08:11 PM
Just measured a spare latch I have. 17mm nut on top. Measured a rear trunk lid hole and it's 18.5mm or so.
The one on the left in your picture looks perfect/original.
The one on the right in your picture looks all kinds of wrong.
computers4kids
Dec 7 2010, 08:18 PM
QUOTE(Cheapsnake @ Dec 7 2010, 05:08 PM)
Mystery solved, and no the hole was not bondoed smaller or altered in any way. I checked a spare hood I had off a parts car and sher nuff, it had a different latch with a different nut (15mm vs 17mm) that fits the hole just fine. For anybody interested, the latch piece with the smaller nut , the one on the right is from a 73.
Is it possible the metal has been replaced around the latch and a new hole (smaller one)was drilled? That hole looks smaller thatn any trunk hole I've ever seen.
markb
Dec 7 2010, 08:38 PM
QUOTE(McMark @ Dec 7 2010, 06:11 PM)
The one on the left in your picture looks perfect/original.
The one on the right in your picture looks all kinds of wrong.
Cheapsnake
Dec 8 2010, 07:49 AM
QUOTE(McMark @ Dec 7 2010, 06:11 PM)
Just measured a spare latch I have. 17mm nut on top. Measured a rear trunk lid hole and it's 18.5mm or so.
The one on the left in your picture looks perfect/original.
The one on the right in your picture looks all kinds of wrong.
Upon closer examination, the one on the right is actually a bastardized version of the other one. The mounting plate and tang are exactly the same. Somebody apparently removed the collar and installed a smaller nut. Either one will work OK, but I'm going with the one on the left and grind the nut to fit.
Sorry to take up bandwidth with this issue, should have done my homework first.
Tom
Mikey914
Dec 9 2010, 01:04 AM
It looks like #2 was modified because the retainer failed. These used to only be available as an assembly (you couldn't just buy the retainer). They're $110, ask me how I know.
This is an inexpensive way to solve the problem, if you can't get a retainer piece for the spring, but there's a very close distance between locked and open. How well did the mechanism work when you pulled the release. I'm thinking with the shortened throw it may have stuck some?
Cheapsnake
Dec 9 2010, 07:10 PM
QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Dec 8 2010, 11:04 PM)
It looks like #2 was modified because the retainer failed. These used to only be available as an assembly (you couldn't just buy the retainer). They're $110, ask me how I know.
This is an inexpensive way to solve the problem, if you can't get a retainer piece for the spring, but there's a very close distance between locked and open. How well did the mechanism work when you pulled the release. I'm thinking with the shortened throw it may have stuck some?
The shortened latch did work unattached, but there is a very narrow window between latched and unattached. I'm not about to install it on the trunk lid to try it out, if it doesn't unlatch I'm in a world of sh*t.
Tom
Mikey914
Dec 10 2010, 10:39 PM
The key will be if it latches. you can allways pull up on the lid. the mechanism will work the same way, just may not have enough force to lift the lid.
montoya 73 2.0
Dec 10 2010, 11:09 PM
That explains why my lid mechanism doesn't work anymore. I didn't know I was supposed to have a spring and retainer? To top that off, someone put a bit of weld on the tip and did some fancy grinding. Worked fine until I replaced my bent springs with the gas struts. Damn it! Another thing to fix. It never ends.
bandjoey
Dec 10 2010, 11:37 PM
Tom, I'll send you a good latch complete for postage. Probably about $5. PM me if you want it. Merry Christmas
Drew if he doesn't need it, you can have it, too.
Cheapsnake
Dec 11 2010, 06:46 PM
QUOTE(bandjoey @ Dec 10 2010, 09:37 PM)
Tom, I'll send you a good latch complete for postage. Probably about $5. PM me if you want it. Merry Christmas
Drew if he doesn't need it, you can have it, too.
Thanks for the offer, but I used the unmodified one and it works fine. Santa, If Drew was a good boy this year you can send the latch to him. and Merry
Christmas to you too.
Tom
montoya 73 2.0
Dec 12 2010, 12:06 AM
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