Need to increase negative camber. What are best options up front and cost of what you did. Rear also. I am using car for both track and AX (likely to go A-6s) so some compromise involved. Winter project. For track going to be running RA1s (previously 888s).
Words of wisdom please.

A6s like negative camber....up to -3 if you're not worried abut tire wear.
On a 914 -1 is about all you can get up front using the stock set up.....another .25 deg or so lowered to the max. Offset strut mounts will give you close to another
-1. Offset ball joints will give about another -.25/-.5

Depending on the car, the rear is good for almost -2 (again lowered) by pulling out shims.

4 a arms slice and add internal doubler plates plug welds and seem weld and if you did it right you added 3/4-1 inch which gives additional neg camber. vintage racer cheater trick.

With added negative camber can come some problems.......excessive side loading on Bilsteins. Had to do some rework to the caps before sending them out for repair and that seemed to fix the problem.....tho I then went to bias slicks (from A6s) after this and took the negative camber out. "Funny" shit happens when your looking for more grip and this sure as hell wasn't the only "fun".

For the front I like struts with raised and re-cambered spindles. It solves bump steer problems at the same time.
Rebel Racing can do this, I've installed several sets.
http://www.rebelracingproducts.com/Suspension/Steering.html
For the rear you can lower it as much as possible and remove all the shims and see what you get. I've thought about building a fixture to hold the rear trailing arms so that I could twist them to increase neg camber, but I haven't done anything yet.

If raising the outer swing arm mounting point as much as possible my removing all shims doesn't get you enough rear camber, is it possible to lower the inner swing arm mounting hole in the suspension console?

It's possible just bloody difficult. The pic doesn't do a good job of showing the raised portion around the SW flange, but it is there.

Sixnot four:
That is solution proposed to me and it makes me a little nervous. Does this solution "look" normal if done correctly? No issue with strength?

What about mounting tabs for sway bar.
THX
Terry

It would have been fairly easy for me to do "while I was there" reinforcing the inner section of the ear.....just more cutting, welding & grinding....but I didn't have the need using bias ply tires.
3/16" plate for the inner.....prolly heat & beat for the outter.

Looking at the pics I remember that Chris Foley, Tangerine Racing sells a kit for the rear. It isn't cheap or easy, as I recall, but it looks like a solution and it looks like it'll never break.

That kit raises the pickup points and allows some freedom to change the inner to outer mounting relationship.
Someone recently asked me about using it at stock height. I suppose that's possible, but the sheet metal filler pieces would need to be redesigned.

Another option uses one of my procedures, that I hadn't previously considered.
My reinforced trailing arms can be setup at any built in camber.
On the website I list stock and two levels of reduced camber, but the same process could be used to increase camber as well.

Its not for everyone for sure ,
I have only done it at the end of the a arm so it doesnt change the sway bar mount or the round diagonal.
drill plug weld holes and insert doubler plates for both ends.
you end up with double wall and looks stock.
I have seen one crashed and it messed up the ball joint hole and bent it.


reboring the spindle is the best way, but it depends on your wheels as they may end up rubbing the strut body.

The two tires that you list require additional camber to run as fast as bias ply tires.We tested several different "patch" ways to increase camber so we could run the superior radial tires.IE decambered ball joints,monoballs up front etc.We could not get as much mechanical grip these ways.In my opinion, you have to change mounting points to run these radials at there optimum settings.Camber boxes up front with spindle changes and raised pick up points in the rear.All of the products that Racer Chris has develloped-are first class efforts at addressing these problems.We run bias ply slicks due to our designs and limtations.J

I just happen to have a set of spindles with way too much built in camber on my street car. I've dialed out as much camber as possible, and still have 2.5 on each side. I just removed them in preparation for replacing the suspension bushings.

Let me know if you are interested in a trade. I don't know what year they are, but I'm currently running Koni reds and the brake caliper spacing is 3".

Dion

Would love to but I need 3 1/2" spacing for brakes......
Never fails !
Thanks
Terry