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rdr
Hi all, I have been off and on this forum for 2 years now and I am finally honkering down and going to finish this restore! Actually a resto-mod so I apologize now to the purest among us. I have done a Spitfire and a Lotus Europa so I am no stranger to engine re-builds, welding and all the major stuff that comes with enjoying our hobbie / obsession.

A little history. Picked up this here in Maryland about 18 months ago for $500. A bit rusty (?!?) and only ran for 10 minutes then dies. Jump, ran another 10 and dies. This is what the P.O. said. Ok, for $500 I can fix it. Got it home and he was right. What do you expect from an engine without an alternator! sad.gif

Fast forward a bit. Stripped out the interior, dropped the engine, and generally removed everything to assess it's condition. Biggest issue = rust. I have purchased all the goodies to get it back together... new interior pieces, new center console, pistons, carbs, alternator, sway bars, shocks, 4 x disks, calipers, etc. Literally a basement full of stuff at great prices as I ran across them on eBay and here, on the classified network. aktion035.gif

I am slowly welding in sheets that I fabricated from flat stock to patch / repair the rust. There is not enough to replace the entire floor pan, although if I was to do it again, I may consider doing just that. I am now on the pedal area - putting in a new piece that I got from a cut-up when I cut out the old section. I did replace the trunk pan and areas of the hell-hole. I will be patching up the rest later next week. Th biggest section that needs to be done besides the pedal area is the under-tunnel in the back between the seats. Under the car, not on top. I am going to template it out with cardboard then bend-to-fit a section out of flat sheet.

I will try to post updated photos as I make gains and losses. And above all, I value your opinions, critiques, and general snide comments! beerchug.gif

Richard, thanks for your motivation ahead of time! I think you said a while back to "do a little each night" and it will eventually get done. agree.gif

Here are some questions that I toss to the experts for comments....

1. Fiberglass flares are going to be used and probably bolted on for that racer look. I will be getting them from Pelican. I already viewed many of the bolt-on-flare postings and like that look. I am NOT going to convert to the 5 lug at this time since I already have the calipers (new) and the disks for the 4 bolts. I think I can find some 4x130x15x7's for the front and 8's for the back for now.

2. Any good posts (tried searching but found none) for taking apart that dash? Wow what a contorted configuration!

Take care my friends.... Photos below.

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Up on stilts for easy access. Wish I had a lift.


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From the removal of the front struts... still need to do the steering.


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Pedal area is bad. Note new piece in foreground. sad.gif


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Hell Hole.


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Engine on dolly


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Front gas tank area...

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My shop. Welder, rag pile, and table-o-parts with bench, etc. My *CAVE* ! piratenanner.gif

geniusanthony
With the dash, take lots of pics for putting it back together, There is a classics thread for putting the front ventilation boxes back in right as you will probably end up disconnecting some of it for removal of the HVAC controls. I am nearby and there are probably about 20 others nearby to NoVA/DC/MD.

A question of my own, is that considered a safe way to load I think the cinder blocks under your jackstands?
rdr
I thought of that as well. I was told that the load should be placed on the blocks as if they were used as the foundation of a house, meaning laying with the holes up / down. If they were with the holes left / right, then the crush factor is very high. They are placed up/down. I am going to create a 6x6 frame or weld up some bed-rails into a safety brace to slide under when I am working under it.

Thanks for the pointer!
r_towle
your using the blocks the right way, dont worry.

Here are a few tips.
ALWAYS have your cell phone with you....to call for help.
Try to do crazy shit when someone is home.
Wear goggles all the time...just get used to them (been to the emergency room more than once with metal in my eyes)

Dash...well, its not super hard, certainly easier than anything you drive today.

the gauges all come out in a package...unscrew the plate and start pulling. the tach, wiring and speedo cable will stop you...reach up and find the speedo, and then once that is undone, flip the gauge pack on its face and take ten pictures with great light of all the wiring..
Clean the wires so you can see all the colors..

The rest of it is really simple, just philips head screws.
The top dash pad is bolted to the metal dash.
It uses plastic nuts...just lay down and start looking under the dash for nylon white nuts...you will find most of them easy...
There is one or two right behind the speedo....hard to see and damn near impossible to get...but we have all done it...just have patience and a long pair of neednose pliers...

Rich
r_towle
BTW, to make you feel better....with all the suspension off, go pick up one end of the car....by hand.

Rich
Tom
Can see no reason why those blocks would not hold up. You have them placed correctly. Looks like you are in for a lot of fun. Good luck.
Oh, that rag pile could be a problem if there are oily rags in there. They have a bad habit of spontaneous combustion. Store them in a small garbage can with a lid.
Tom
Jacob
Love seeing posts of projects! educational and inspiring!
Thanks!
Keep the pictures coming!
PanelBilly
Looks like fun to me. Before you start the body work, now would be the time to take it to a shop and make sure the body is straight. If your going to twist things around, better to do it first.
rdr
QUOTE(Jacob @ Jan 9 2011, 09:54 AM) *

Love seeing posts of projects! educational and inspiring!
Thanks!
Keep the pictures coming!


Thank you one and all. I appreciate the tips. The blocks, I feel much better about now. The rags will go into a can today. Good idea. type.gif I am going *under* the dash to get that out and get the front suspension off today / tomorrow. Then back to welding up the holes. Pictures to follow.

huh.gif Question: I want to drop the suspension as one unit in the front then deal with it. I am a little worried that if I start to unbolt, the torsion bar willl suddenly flip out like a mouse trap. Is there anything under *sprung* tension doing it my way that I need to watch for? unsure.gif

Here it is when I brought it home a while back....
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