I'm contemplating a Porsche 6 engine conversion and was wondering if anybody had a complete, comprehensive list of every part required to move into a 2.4 or 2.7 liter engine.

Someone has had to put together a spreadsheet of everything they had to purchase to itemize the losses, er; I mean expedenitures on this project. Only interested in the drivetrain and limited to a 2.7 engine in size if it matters.

Let me know if you can help.

Thanks,
Kev

Johnathan at GPR has all the info and all the parts. I talked to him on Thursday and he had just completed filling a 6 cyl conversion kit order.

This is an estimate for my 3.2 conversion. I haven't purchased all the parts yet but I'm getting there. It could be done for a lot less with headers and cheaper muffler.

• 911 3.2 Engine 4000
• Fuel Injection DME and harness 800
• 911 Engine to 914 harness 200
• Fuel Pump 200
• 3.2 conversion Flywheel 600
• 3.2 conversion clutch inc
• 914-6 accelerator cable and brackets 300
• Engine bulkhead mount 400
• 914-6 Heat ss exchangers 2200
• M & K Muffler 800
• 2.0L 914 Muffler Bracket 50
• 914-6 Oil Tank, filler neck, cap, dipstick and oil lines 1000
• 914-6 Sheet Metal 400
• Exhaust gasket kit 50
• 911 tachometer 100
• New fuel filter & oil filter
• Oil temp & Pressure Gauge 100
• Oil cooler modification 200
• Injectors rebuilt 200
• Heat tubes on engine 120
•
• Trans rebuilt 500
• H gear 200
• 914-6 intermediate plate 100
• 911 hubs, stubs, trans flanges 300
• Sway away axles 250

With the addition of the cost of installing a front oil cooler to aid in cooling the beast:

Mazda RX-7 cooler (or facsimile) $200

20 feet of AN-12 braided line $100

Fittings, Mocal thermostat $250

Plan on a solid $10,000 for a decent used engine and conversion parts for starters.

Both Pelican and Auto Atlanta have info that itemizes the shopping list. Pelicans is free (check tech articles) and prices for parts are all over the place. Many ways to go but in all candor, buying a conversion is almost always cheaper than the nickel/dime (or $100/500) process that takes place. Determine how you want the car configured for your intended use and then go shopping.
Good luck .......

Thanks for the replies...my initial post was perhaps confusing. I know it's expensive. What I'm really looking for is a parts list of everything I need to purchase, not so much what things cost. I've been here long enough to know this endevour is crazy expensive. Also, I realize I could have saved $$$ if I bought a conversion, however; that's water under the bridge. Like many before me, I've spent tons of time and $ on my car with upgrades and I've got a fantastic car waiting for bigger motor. I know Pelican use to have a tech article with what I'm looking for but I can no longer find it in the tech section.

So, assuming I've got a complete running motor...what else do I need, regardless of how insignificant the part might be.

Next, what is the downside of going with a smaller 6 (max 2.7L)? For instance, do I have do drop the motor to do a valve adjustment (is a valve adjustment required as frequently as a 4)?

Lastly, for a street car, what can I get away with as far as minimum requirements for oil cooling? I'd rather not install a front mounted oil cooler, is that mandatory?

Kev

1.) Engine w/ harness .. $????
2.) Engine mount & hardware .... $550 max (RJ mount)
3.) Oil Tank w/ filler neck & oil filter console .. couple of options here ...$750 - $1200
4.) On engine oil cooler (stock /6 or modified 911) ... $50 - $250
5.) Lines from tank to engine (preferable to have joint in middle to drain oil) $300
6.) Scavenge lines from engine to tank*** $????
7.) *** addition of auxillary oil coolet ... could be Long Tru Cool like the VW used. Can be mounted up front or under the rear trunk or engine lid grill ... $125 - up
8.) Headers or stock HEs if you want heat ... $350 to $2000
9.) Straight rear shift rod to clear /6 exhaust. .... $100
10.) 911 muffler .... New (forget it) ... Used ... $50 to ???
11.) /4 2.0L exhaust hanger .... $39
12.) /6 engine tin .... $350
13.) 911 heater hoses (from shroud to HEs) ... $50
14.) /6 Tachometer .... $100 up
15.) /6 oil pressure / oil temp guage .... $100 up
16.) In line thermostat for external oil cooler (I don't run one) ... $150.00
17.) If CIS motor .... fuel pump (6 bar) & filter / accumulator assembly ... $300 up. If carbs .... $2000 (used) if engine doesn't come with them.
18.) Additional items to convert to bigger brakes (911 front end, redrilled /4 rear hubs/rotors .... all optional depending upon how fast you want to stop.
19.) Time (doesn't take that long to do a conversion)
20.) Holes saws for cutting oil tank holes if using stock or aftermarket "in fender" tank.
21.) 911 Alternator belt tool
22.) 911 valve adjustment tool
23.) 911 ignition system (CDI box) or alternative (hopefully comes with engine)
24.) For up to 2.7L .... early 901 flywheel (need to mark it for 914/6 application)
25.) /6 accelerator linkage ... this can be done several ways from the bellcrank setup to directly connect

Valve adjustment can be done in car ... normal method or backside of cams method. Valve adjust ... every 3K or as needed. Due to clearances, some find it easier to drop engine.

Items listed as I thought of them.

So, assuming I've got a complete running motor...what else do I need, regardless of how insignificant the part might be.

---It depends on the motor and your personal likes. A carbed 2.7 will take some different parts compared to a fi 3.2. Oem parts vs aftermarket. Heat vs headers. Stock 914-6 oil tank, repro or front mounted? There are at least 4 different engine mounts to choose from. Wiring is also different for different engines, tachs and aux guages. Decide on your engine and a lot will build from there.

Next, what is the downside of going with a smaller 6 (max 2.7L)? For instance, do I have do drop the motor to do a valve adjustment (is a valve adjustment required as frequently as a 4)?

--- All the 6's have different needs. Carbs, CIS, Motronic. How you drive and how often, what condition the engine is in?

Lastly, for a street car, what can I get away with as far as minimum requirements for oil cooling? I'd rather not install a front mounted oil cooler, is that mandatory?

---You don't have to go to a front cooler, there are options depending on your engine, where you live and how you drive.

When I decided to convert to a 6, I ran a search on world for "six conversion" and a couple other search terms. There are ~500 threads. I read most of them. I also researched the size and type engine I wanted. I went with a fi 3.2 because I felt it would be the most "turn key" for day to day driving. All the conversions up to a 3.2 cost about the same (big generalization - i know) so I figured I would go with a more modern engine. I felt this was best for me but other people love the look of carbs. A longblock will still need carbs - 1K minimum or 3-4K for PMO's.

Do your research and you will be able to make the best decisions for your wants and needs.

Also, my best tip to you, is when you want something, don't wait for it to appear on the classifieds. Place a WTB on this site and Pelican and sellers will come to you. There are a lot of people who have the parts you might need but let them sit in a corner of the garage until some one asks. Good luck, Mark

The oil cooler issue reallly does depend on where you live and what you want to do with the car. Porsche did use a front mounted loop cooler on some 2.7s, but not all. My 75 911S had no front cooler at all with it's 2.7, but it did run hot. When I converted my -4 to a -6, I used a 2.7 with a front cooler, and it works great.

Any larger than 2.7, and I think a front cooler would be a necessity. A 2.0 -2.4 liter engine should have no problem without a front cooler.

Also, with today's fuels (ie ethanol), I think you'll find FI is preferable to carbs if the car sits for any length of time.

It really comes down to do you want the sex of carbs or the reliability of F.I.. The stock 3.2 is hard to beat, but I ended up with a carbed 3.0 because I am old and romantic about fiddling with Webers and hearing them wide open. It is sort of a siren's song once you have heard it.

The other tip for valve adjustments is to buy Turbo lower (ribbed) valve covers, then machine the ribs down so that you can remove the covers with the engine in place.

Good luck.

Kevin:

You probably know this but once you go to 3 liter or larger additional issues with clutch , flywheel etc. Bigger and even more ---- wiring harness etc. Real need for heavier CVs and axles at 3.2 due to torque .. I can't help you there but you are surely aware of Patrick and kennedy. Personally I really like the newest patrick mount ...doesn't hang down and front bolts go in from the side ..HAve pics of installed but need pm with address>I have both and feel new one makes dropping engine a breeze . Maybe Glenn can hook you up with the ariticle that disappeared.






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