Some questions on a 2 liter FI system:

I got a GC motor (1975), and I have some FI questions:

1. I'd like to use a 1973 or 73 engine wire harness, only difference I see is the early harness is set up fot a single wire cold start switch, the 1975 engine has a two wire switch.
I plan to use a single wire switch on my engine, so I can use the earlier harness.

Any thoughts on this?

2. Also, I have two types of green 2 liter injectors. the ones ending in part number 019 are for a 73-74 car and those ending in 038 are for a 75 to 76 car. (part number data from Paul Anders web site)
What is the difference if any in performance between these two injector types?

3. I also have two brains to choose from, a 75-76 brain (ending in 052) and a 1974 brain (ending in 14x) both are for 2 liter cars.

Would I be better off performance wise with one or the other, and is it needed to match the brain to the harness i an using (per above cold start switch issue?)

I have the 043 number MPS and understand that it is for 74 thru 76 2 liter engines.

So what might be best? use the newer or older ECU (brain), and use the newer or older injectors?

I pretty much want to go with the 74 harness (single wire cold start switch) as my 75 harness is really deteriorated.

Any suggestions or advice?


By the way if you haven't seen Paul Anders write up on 914 D-jet, take a look, it is very very informative.


thanks dave

74 set up all the way! Test the MPS too while you are at it....
Dont cheap out on us, get new injectors instead of using old crappy mis matched ones.

Geoff

Didn't I already reply to this today?

You have to match the mps to the ECU. Those are the exact two ECU's that I have and if you get it wrong it'll run bad.

use Brad's page to match the components. In my case I ended up running the 73 harness with the 75 MPS and ECU.

As I said before (or thought I said before) I won't swear it works perfectly yet, untill I get my AAR problem figured out, but with a matched ECU and MPS its a very noticeable performance increase. I didn't realize how bad it was running until I switched them, but it is night and day.

Duckie, whats wrong with your AAR valve?
Pretty easy to fix if its stuck....
Geoff

Thanks Robert: I did see you prior reply also, I added this post, because originally I only was having to deal with the two verses one wire cold start switch, later I found I had two brains, and two types of injectors, and my MPS was the correct one for either brain. So I have more choices now.


thanks

dave

It is staying open, but I have to check it electrically, I used the best looking of the two. I'm afraid I might have POR15'ed the tin and manifold so well it isn't getting a ground........................

DD posted instructions to test the electrics and once I do I feel rather certain I'll be asking how to fix it, unless the bad looking one works...................

spray PB Blaster into it liberaly and soak it to free up the rotary valve inside. If the heater works it will get hot and the valve will turn. You try it with 12v to it.

Geoff

Yeah I went back and found the other one and realized this one had more content. I was freaking out, I KNEW I had read something nearly the same and had replyed as had Blowsby but there were no replies, I thought I was having a blond moment.



On brads compatability chart under each of those ECUS there is only one MPS that works. Mine ended up with the 73 injectors as well since I couldn't get all 4 of the 75 ones to function.

Oh the djet will run with any mix of the parts....note I said run. The car will run crappy, have little power , not idle worth a darn if the parts are mixed up.

Geoff

WORKED LIKE A CHARM..............