I have a 1972 914 that has the rear brakeing system off of a 1971 914.
I rebuilt these 4 years ago with a kit from pelican parts and everthing worked fine.
When I swaped brakes over to the new tub, I adj. clearances per manual.
the problem is that when the parking brake is applied firmly (not by a gorollia)
the left rear will not release when you release the parking brake. If you tap the rear calipar with a hammer, it will release. It"s like it cammed over. If my clearences are correct, is this adjustable, or is it replacement time?
marantha, chrispy
Full Version: parking brake
Did you swap cables as well?
QUOTE(underthetire @ Jan 23 2011, 03:59 PM) 
Did you swap cables as well?
the cables are from the 72, they release (detension ? is this a word) , and you can see the spring loaded lever on the caliper move. I did not want to squeeze under the car to tap the caliper ao I decided to jack it up a little way. As the car was raising I heard an audible click and the wheel was free.
Couple of things...
When you rebuilt them did you rebuild the actual handbrake assembly? Most don't, it would require special seals and a welch plug. (shown here):
When you rebuit them did you use a lot of brake cleaner or other solvent? Did you maybe dip them in a solvent?
There's a wiper seal under the handbrake arm as shown in this picture:
Too much solvent and this seal will swell causing the arm to stick. Check around the base of the arm on the offending caliper. You will often see this seal buldging out the top if this is the case. The seal could have been bad before, causing water to get in the bore. If water gets in here it can rust and cause binding:
Model years on parts don't matter for the rears, everything is interchangable.
If you don't see a buldging seal here's what you can do with the caliper on the car:
Remove the cable.
Remove the c-clip holding the washer on the top (bottom when mounted) of the arm.
Remove the spring
Remove the spring bushing...
...and clean everything up. With all of that off, the arm should pull back and then move forward under it's own power. It may stick in one place or another based upon age etc but, it should want to go forward again. Work it back and forth and see if you feel any binding. It should be fairly easy to move and, again, because of the internal spring it should want to move forward on its own.
If not, you'll need to do a full rebuild, including the handbrake arm kit at this time. Also, if that seal is buldging, you'll want to do a full rebuild.
When you rebuilt them did you rebuild the actual handbrake assembly? Most don't, it would require special seals and a welch plug. (shown here):
When you rebuit them did you use a lot of brake cleaner or other solvent? Did you maybe dip them in a solvent?
There's a wiper seal under the handbrake arm as shown in this picture:
Too much solvent and this seal will swell causing the arm to stick. Check around the base of the arm on the offending caliper. You will often see this seal buldging out the top if this is the case. The seal could have been bad before, causing water to get in the bore. If water gets in here it can rust and cause binding:
Model years on parts don't matter for the rears, everything is interchangable.
If you don't see a buldging seal here's what you can do with the caliper on the car:
Remove the cable.
Remove the c-clip holding the washer on the top (bottom when mounted) of the arm.
Remove the spring
Remove the spring bushing...
...and clean everything up. With all of that off, the arm should pull back and then move forward under it's own power. It may stick in one place or another based upon age etc but, it should want to go forward again. Work it back and forth and see if you feel any binding. It should be fairly easy to move and, again, because of the internal spring it should want to move forward on its own.
If not, you'll need to do a full rebuild, including the handbrake arm kit at this time. Also, if that seal is buldging, you'll want to do a full rebuild.
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