Here's an interesting posting on the Porsche website - Classics section - about the restoration of the `73 911T purchased in LA last year by PCA, for the 2011 raffle car.

Click to view attachment

A few things I noted in their write-up, which I wish I could set up in my backyard for my own 73 914-2.0's resto, are a straightening bench, caustic paint/corrosion stripping tank, electrostatic priming and cataphoretic dip painting tanks (whatever the f*** those are!!?? ), and the zinc seam sealer equipment that they're using instead of the correct OE plastic stuff.

- you think they'll gig this one at the CW events for wrong seam sealer?

http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands...oryrestoration/

http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands...ation/bodywork/

http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands...reconstruction/

Looks like a good one to follow over the coming months.

Isn't that one the PCA is raffling off?

If money was no object, I would consider sending my /6 back to the factory for a complete restoration. It would be so economically not worth it, but still...

looked at the pics of the body guy working....He needs a bigger hammer!!

Yes it's the PCA raffle 911, & Yes you're Metallic Blue 6 WOULD be well worth it!

Craftsman at their best

So Porsche is talking acid or caustic dip in their write-up on this 911T, & I noticed that Rob/consdodger mentioned "strip & dip" on another resto post on here, as the best means to strip off old paint, rust & crud before such a resto.

I too would love to send mine to Germany for their craftsmanship, but it's even less in the cards for my lowly 73 914.2.0.

Now I'm wondering where around SoCal or Orange County is there anywhere to do a dip - preferably where they can also dip for both rust preventative & primer, as well as the rust/crud removal?

Tom - Here's what you'll have left after dipping your car.

Smart A##!!!!

Hey, I'd have the seats too, cuz they'll be out of the car as well as a few bit-n-pieces!

Seriously though, I'd rather get all the rusted shit out of there in a dip process, properly repaired; & then the whole thing properly rust-proofed, primed & buttoned-up before final prime-n-paint - if possible. Thereby making it more rust-proof/resistant than original under it all - more comparable to post `76 Porsches.

One of the main problems with dipping (and I've done two that way) is the heater tubes. If you're the factory, it's OK because you can easily... literally... make a new car with the bits and pieces they have available to them. Otherwise you're cutting up your longs.

The other problem I've seen is acid weaping from the seams even after the neutralizing bath. A freshly primiered 914-6 tub was weaping and rusting at the seams 3 months after the strip. My very first 911 weaped for over a year in the passengers footwell.

I like Baking Soda. I found the results nothing short of amazing. It has it's limitations as well. Baking soda will not touch rust or get seam sealer out etc. For those trouble areas you will need sand.

Also... blasting will have you chasing pockets of sand or baking soda that mysteriously got into places you didn't think existed. I've been chasing soda bunnies around my car with the air hose for some time now.

Pick your poison.

So true.

Eric is spot on. There is no magic bullet. Everything has a drawback.

Yeah & I've heard similar weeping problems with using a chemical stripper too.
... maybe that's why they're doing tin at the seams on this 911T?

I also knew about having to cut the longs open - maybe just at the ends or sides, and of pulling the heater tubes to do a dip.
.... and my longs are about the only non-rusted area so far - except what may be found inside under the hell hole - at least so far!

I guess it's only okay if you're the factory & have that secret stash of 914 parts & an unlimited budget like for PCA's 911T!

That's lead. "Almost" a lost art but, that's the way 911's were put together. Lundquists still use lead.

The other problem with dipping is that it not only weeps out for a long time, if it is not properly neutralized, it is more damaging to the car then the water that made it rust the first time.

Their text said "tinning" ... I thought lead, and I used to help do leading the seams on my uncle's hot rods back in the 60's-70's & on my 914, and did a small spot recently on my kids' Honda LF fender before the repaint.

Hmmm.... ....that brings up a funny mental image of this PCA Raffle Prize 73 911T Factory Resto melting away to a puddle of goo on the driveway, a year or so after the prize winner gets it!

Yeah Mark, I'm also aware of all the new lead paint rules too, as I'm sure you are too being a Realtor. IMHO some of that is way overkill, like the mold BS.

I think you're safe to use lead with a proper respirator and good ventilation - so long as you don't go around licking your leaded seams!

I'm definitely the first high level lead bullet!

The reasons for the term tin are two fold. First off, what is now being sold for lead work is primarily tin, not lead. IIRC the lead content nowadays is only about 5%. Secondly, the first part of lead work, real lead or new lead, is prepping the metel to accept the lead/tin. This process is referd to as " tinning " the metal. I have done lead work, it is a lot more involved process than bondo, takes a lot morelearning curve, is more dangerous, but it does have it's market. It is also a bit of an art form, but one that can beeasily learned

also possible is that Germans refer to leading as tinning. Kinda like how those goofy Brits call an elevator a lift ..........