I getting ready for the WCR and want a trailer for my Queen.
What are the options?
A guy at a trailer lot says either a tilt or a rool back is best. A ramp type won't allow enough clearance.
I looking for cheap, but don't want to get stuck with one that dosn't work.
Let me know what you guys do, besides drive your car to events with 4 dogs and wife.

any low flat bed will work...you just need to raise the front of the trailer to get the car off and on, along with longer more gradual incline for the ramps...

If your just hauling a 914 small and low works good. I have hauled this trailer from coast to coast many times. I built it about 1987.

Britain Smith had one listed as of 17 January.Price was right.We run an enclosed trailer with 12' of ramps so we clear splitter.J. Jackson

yep, That's what I had in mind. I'm temped to build one like that
Thanks Rick

A buddy had this built for his Lotus...

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http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/for/2188270977.html

Probably a little heavy but this would work just fine. Not to far away from you either. If It was closer I would go look at it for sure

This is a 914 specific built trailer I own. It has been through numerous 914 owners in the SF bay area over the years. It is short and light to the point where I sometimes forget it is behind the SUV on longer trips. The only bummer is that the wheel fenders are really close and the doos of the car will not open once it is on the trailer. I either have to climb out the window or put the top on once the car is on the trailer.

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Good one Jamie, I'll call him in the AM.
Thanks

Michael....did you buy that from Nathan?

I know where if first came from...you are about the 4 914 owner to have that trailer...
started life with a 914 DE/TT racer from years back. I even hauled my Orange track car on that trailer to Thunderhill once
Great little trailer as long as you have a narrow body 914

get an enclosed 16-18' car hauler. you won't ever regret it.

multi purpose and you will never worry about leaving the car on the trailer.

I picked it up from Nathan after he sold his race car in 2006.

Check with your local U-Haul and see if they want to sell off any of their Auto Transport trailers. They rent for $60 bucks a day and fit a 914 PERFECT!

I have one sitting out front similar to the single axles shown but with a tire rack. 8 foot aluminum ramps make loading simple. 1200 bucks. I've towed the 914 all over the West coast with it. I'll send a pic if you are interesed.

I agree, enclosed trailers are the cat's ass. Figure 3-4 K used minimum.

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24' Keeps prying eyes and weather away.....

Tony,
The one Jamie found looks great. It's low to the ground, most likely a straight axle. It's very similar to the one I've had for a couple of years. You'll need to add a winch since the doors won't open on the trailer. You could also modify to tilt like the one I have.
Good find Jamie!

and U can sleep in it when Dana's mad at U

That doesn't happen very often..... although we do need to "break it in"

Also good for hiding recently acquired parts cars from your significant other....

Rich

I've also used it for a store room for shit like X-mas stuff and such....but have to take it out when needed to take the car to the track.....

Here is a link to my trailer for sale.

Britain's Trailer in Classifieds



Mine has some really nice 8ft aluminum ramps that slide underneath and even with my car fairly low it clears the deck just fine.



I am willing to make a deal with a fellow 914 owner.

-Britain

Oh, and I will include the tie-down straps set-up specifically for this trailer.

-Britain

And it ^ was designed and built by one of the smartest guys on this board.

Lol!

I rebuilt it & Brit did some good refinement (just like he's doin' to the shitbox now)....and parked it in front of my house (now that's smart). I'd like it to be out of here......maybe he'll sell it cheep.

Why not flat tow the 914 ? Seems like it would be easier than pulling a trailer with the car riding on it. There is a custom flat tow rig made for the 914...had one, works good.

In any case, see you in Medford.

I thought about the flat tow and saw a tow hitch assy in the clasifieds. I am leary but not opposed to the idea. Having a 32ft motorhome adding a 16ft trailer makes a monster.
Has anyone had any good or bad with the flat tow, with the proper protection on the teener. ????

What the heck is that, A PUG!??

do you want to repaint the front of your car? Flat towing is great, but behind a motorhome with those duals kicking up rocks, gravel, sand, grit....maybe not a great idea...unless your have some very effective mud flaps or a complete rock guard across the back...
I love flat towing, but a low car like a 914 would take a beating without the proper equipment on the Motorhome.

Thanks Dan,
I do have a full ground scraping mud flap behind the back of the motorhome. A friend of mine flat tows his jeep, Show quality, and has a guard between the car and the motorhome, that is another idea.
I was thinking of also using some of the plastic that adheres to the car for protection as an added protector for the paint. the kind they ship new cars with.
I'm soo confused so many choices

I flat towed my last 914 behind my Suburban that was equipped with mud flaps and the 914 wore a full bra on the front...my burb does not sit as high as a MH in the rear nor does it have 4 tires throwing stuff.
It worked well for me but you would have a tough time finding a full bra for the front of your baby.

I used a Rennenmetal tow bar attachment ( I was the one that helped design the final version and came up with the idea to attach to the front torsion bar tubes)) on the front of the 914 along with a Super Beetle tow bar....worked wonderfully. Towed several thousand miles with no issues.

Tony,

See: http://rennenmetal.com/products.asp?cat=2

These are really well made. Sold mine to a fellow teener last year. Once the undercairage bar is installed, it can be left there. Some type of airdams have to be removed, but mostl do not

Tony, flat towing a jeep is a whole different animal than a 914. I flat tow my suzuki and my motorhome has the full flap and still get road crap on my jeep in wet weather. I thought about flat towing my 914 behind the motorhome, which I have numerous times behind my trunk without issues, is another animal. I mated it once and the hood literally is below the chasis of the RV....not a a good idea. You might get away with it for short distances on good clean dry roads...but I won't risk it. You would have to cover 1/2 of the car with that clear guard.

Wish you were on the East Coast

I really prefer tandem axle trailers. Here is a home built I picked up for a really good price. It isn't pretty (but it will be!) but it tows really well with the teener. Has one axle with electric brakes.
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I have said it before and I will say it again, Use a tow dolly. Will work great behind the MH, I have a 32'er also, as it gets the front end up so it won't take the road grime beating. I pull a 22' boat so about 24' over all with my motorhome and even use it to back it down the boat ramp. 16' would be a piece of cake.

I have an extra flat tow if you'd like Tony. They are nice to have anyway. Let me know if you want it & I'll make you a deal. For behind your motorhome I would still recommmend a trailer. I have flat towed a few different times. They ride really nice behind whater you tow with. I hardly notice it is there. I think Flat towing is great even long distances. The detractions are the crap that can get kicked up. I would think the full mudflap on the back of your motorhome would cover most problems. With your paint being in such nice shape. I wouldn't risk the flat tow so far. Get a trailer & a flat tow for smaller trips with a smaller tow rig

I went and looked at this trailer yesterday, for $600.00 its a good deal but... its built like a brick sh!t house. Home made, probably weighs more than my car. has solid mount tandem axles. the axles are from, lets say, house trailer. The rims and hubs are held together with compression fittings,14.5 tires, are they a standard size?. It has very low load ramps, good thing. I'm thinking about it

It is important to have *trailer tires*. Easy to find in standard 15 sizes and fairly cheep. IMO, springs are good but if you're good at fab work anything can be modified. A trailer supply house is a good thing to locate.

Plan on spending about $1200 to get a decent quality trailer.
Dual axles with brakes are best. My flat bed sits a little high and I have had a few problems with clearance, but I load on an incline to solve that.
Just back the trailer wheels into a driveway slope, and it is usually enough to take care of any clearance issues. Use a 2x4 in front of the ramp and you should be fine. Anything less than $1200 and you are either buying somebody's cheap homemade crap, or you got lucky if you found something solid. Of course there is nothing stopping someone from selling their cheap homemade crap for $1200, so price isn't everything.

I pull mine at 75 and hardly even know it's there.

Why anyone would drive there car to an event is beyond me................

Don't buy this unless you can source new rims or tires. You don't want to get a flat and be stuck somewhere. 14.5 inch tires are not very common.

My trailer is still available and already set-up for towing a 914

-Britain

Tony,

If you want a dual axle, send me a pm. I have a utility trailer with 3500 lb axles, brakes on both, new jack, tires, wiring, base boards all in the last 5 years. Solid trailer - have moved the 914 and a TR3 cross country and 6,000 lbs of stuff up from California. Don't use it much anymore, although everytime I say that, there's a load of something I need to move . I'm over the tacoma narrows bridge from you.

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Gary

Gary, if you don't sell this to Tony are you just going to hold on to it? I may be i the market in 6 months or so.

Oh, probably. She's not going anywhere.

house trailer axles are illegal on most roads unless under a house just something to keep in mind

I have a 2002 Carson steel dual-axle that has served me very well. Here is a pic when it was new-to-me. Now it looks pretty shabby but still works fine. I just put new tires on it.

I'm about to start the hunt for my own tow vehicle as I've worn out my wife's hospitality in borrowing her daily-driver SUV for that. Ultimately I'm sure I will upgrade to an enclosed trailer but that is not a big rush.

I strongly recommend dual axles and brakes if you will be going significant distances and/or using it frequently. Sooner or later you are bound to get a flat tire or have to stop quickly, and that could get highly dramatic on an ultralight tilt-bed.

No problem finding 14.5 rims and tires. A rim/tire combo (G or F rated) sell for about $115 or less. You can also find places that can service the hubs/axles springs etc if you look.

We've towed that single axle prolly 10000 miles with never a flat......fresh tires
on the trailer (& truck) make a difference. .....but we carry spares JIC.

Tow rig tires are more important than race tires & a hell of a lot cheeper.

I've seen house trailer axles on a lot of stuff. I have them on a deer stand. The wheels and tires are pretty easy to find and seem to hold up better over a longer period of time. But I would not use them on a trailer you use a lot. I had to replace the bearings and seals after the deer stand set on one lease 15 years with the tires still on it and the seals are a plastic of sorts. I pulled it home after the tires were on it about 20 years though and the tires made it 150 miles no problem at about 55 mph.I found a rubber seal that would work in it's place. I should make a cover for the wheels or take them off I guess.

I have a 20ft dovetail car trailer with brakes but it is really a big trailer. The ramps slide out the back. They are about 6 ft I guess. My son has a suby sti thats pretty low also. I made some extenders with 2x12 with metal tapered ends on them 6ft long that have a stud that fits in the metal ramps. The extra ramps have brackets and handles that fasten on the side of the trailer to take them along when I need them, they are NOT light. The trailer has a metal floor with a big tractor supply tool box in the front with a cheap hf wench that mounts on a pedestal inside the box with the lid open, when I need it, but it's a little underpowered when I load a unpowered surburban. This is a good trailer but I would still like a rollback trailer better but they cost about twice what mine costs. I paid 1900.00 for mine bare with car tires. I've also changed to trailer tires since I bought the trailer.