Guys, need some help. PO gave me a red valet key. This key works the ignition with no problem so I purchased an OEM black Porsche blank and had it cut to match. It now also works the ignition fine (so the cut was good).

When I insert the black key in the glovebox or rear trunk lock, it will not turn at all, ok to assume a re-key on these locks?

When I insert the red or black keys in the door locks, they turn about 45 degrees to the right but with a strong feel of resistance. Is this normal behavior, assuming that the tumbler and lock mechanism need a good cleaning and lube or do these need a re-key too? e.g. Should the door locks turn zero if the key was wrong? The doors do not seem to be locking right, and I don't want to force the key without understanding normal function.

One last question, when you lock the car doors, do you need to hold the handle up when shutting the door?

Thanks

A rekey for the glove box and front trunk yes, but try shaking and turning the key and lubricate the tumblers with wd 40 first. The door latch is a different matter. You MUST remove the latching mechanism from inside the door and clean it. That is why it is so hard to turn. There is a slider piece (up and down) with a big sideways "U" that is sticking from dirt.

Glove compartment, front trunk and rear trunk were all the valet key. You can feasibly re-key the locks. Idea was you could lock valuable crap up and give the attendant the ignition key to open doors and start the car, but not give him the ability to search your valuables.

Resistance in the door locks is probably the assembly being really dirty ... clean and re-grease. If no turn at all you need to re-key.

No need to hold handle up when locking doors.

Can't aswer your questions directly, but here is the classic thread on rekeying:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=115325

You may want to study the thread and see how the wafers in the locks work. Then pull the rear trunk lock ( easiest to pull ) and see how its working.

If you need wafers ( there are 5 or so different sizes ) post an ad in the classifieds, many of us have extras. Fine tuning can be done by filing the wafer edges if needed.

Good luck, this is a pretty easy repair. As stated above, if they are gunked-up, they can seem frozen.

Thanks guys. I wil try a little WD40 and wiggle in the glove box and rear trunk lock, to see if I can free them. Sounds like the fact that the keys turn the door locks means that they are keyed correct. So just a good clean and lube. From what I hear the rear trunk lock is the easiest to remove. So, I will try re-keying there first but may need some extra wafers.

When cutting the black master key, do you need to flip the key? I cut it to match the valet key, expecting that the only difference was the extra slot for the valet.

better link here with pics.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/m..._lock_rekey.htm
checked my keys and recalled that when i rekeyed, it didn't matter if the key was flipped. My bad.

Never use WD40 on your locks. It will distroy them use special greasing for locks

If you need lock work done (or 914 keys cut to match) - contact Tony Euganeo in Sharon Hill, PA (Google his name).

He took care of me when all I had was a red key and a driver door lock that didn't match. I sent him all the locks, the key, and he cleaned them up and cut me a black master.

If you have the original owners manual - mine has the original key codes in the back at the service section and any good locksmith can code cut a new key for both master and valet. You can also take a lock to a good locksmith and they will cut a new key.

?? Does Porsche have the ability to look up codes for old cars ?? Maybe someone will give us the answer on that one.

This is not 100% applicable to the original question here, but the strategy I've taken on a couple of cars was to replace the ignition lock and electrical portion with a new one including new tumblers and keys. Then, I re-keyed the other locks on the car to match that one. That eliminates a common failure point on the old cars (ignition switch) and gets all the locks working and matching...

I did a re-key writeup that's in the info section here (look in my signature for the link). It sounds like you need to clean & lube the locks & mechanisms of your doors. I use Tri-Flo for lubing, but don't let it get hear your paint. The red key should only work in the doors & ignition. The black key should work everything.

The extra slot is the only difference which allows one to open & other not to on the trunks & glove box. Key cut may also be a tad off too, unless both keys have the same problem in the doors.

You sure about that? My drivers door I need to hold the handle to lock it, passenger door no.

Yes, agree here as well. This assumes that you have pushed the lock button on the door panel and simply want to close the door and have it lock. I actually never lock the door that way ..... always use the key ..... because I'm afraid of locking my keys in the car. Of course with the top off (weather has been beautiful in California) I don't even bother to lock the doors.

I also wanted to mention that I used Liquid Wrench white lithium grease that comes in a spray can, and it made a world of difference on my door locks (and windows, too). Seemed to do a real good job of penetrating through the grime.