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sawtooth
Sorry if this has been covered before, couldn't find much on the subject.

When doing complete rotisserie style restoration, what's everyone doing to finish the undercarriage? This would include floor pan, both trunks and wheel wells.

I'm considering doing this after stripping to bare metal:
- epoxy primer
- thin layer of bed liner
- paint (base/clear) body color

Anything wrong with that plan, any other ideas?

TIA
- Dean
sww914
I like Wurth SKS stoneguard over epoxy primer. You gotta buy a $100.00 gun to shoot it. It looks original.
Here are some 912 floors that I replaced.
sww914
I don't have any pictures of the outside when I finished but you get the idea.
BarberDave
smilie_pokal.gif


DEAN:
Nothing wrong with it in my eyes,except if your a C.W. . The only ques. I

have ,is will the finish color and clear bond ( stick) to the bed liner?

I haven't seen any painted bed liner jobs on trucks. But what heck do

I know. Others with experence chime in ! Dave slap.gif
nathansnathan
Hopefully not in that order as I wouldn't think ainting over bedliner would be ideal?

Don't forget seam sealer, too.

I've been thinking about this. I think a sealer coat of epoxy primer, then seam sealer, then more primer (regular coat), then base coat/ clearcoat. I think topping it with under coat would protect the hard paint with a softer pliable rubber-ish layer. I also think that black on the bottom/ in the wheel wells looks better than body color there, but that's just my opinion.
sawtooth
QUOTE(sww914 @ Feb 7 2011, 10:51 AM) *

I like Wurth SKS stoneguard over epoxy primer. You gotta buy a $100.00 gun to shoot it. It looks original.
Here are some 912 floors that I replaced.

That looks great Steve! So do you mix your paint with the stoneguard, or spray paint color over top of the stoneguard?
Scott S
Here is another option –
I just finished detailing the bottom of my car last week after doing the final welding on my Rich Johnson mount. When the car was on the lift I did a pile of scraping and prodding to look for any hidden rust. I am trying not to be to anal, and had planned to just hit the scrapes and such with some black rattle can and call it good. When I went to look and see what was on the shelf that I could use, I found two cans of dupicolor undercoating. One was called simply “undercoating” the other was called “sound eliminator and undercoat”. I sprayed the under coat on a spot and it looked like sh!t – a dirty brown color that smelled like old oil. Sprayed really poorly too – gloppy. Cleaned it off right away (that was nasty). Against my better judgment, I then tried the other can. To my surprise. it looked fantastic. The spray pattern was awesome, the color is really nice (very similar to the Wurth), it stuck great (even spraying over my head). My brother thinks he paid less than 4.00 for the oversized spray cans at Oreily’s. The pan came out really beautiful. It dried fairly rigid and it says that it is paintable. We’ll see how long it lasts…..
Lou W
QUOTE(sww914 @ Feb 7 2011, 11:51 AM) *

I like Wurth SKS stoneguard over epoxy primer. You gotta buy a $100.00 gun to shoot it. It looks original.
Here are some 912 floors that I replaced.

agree.gif That's what I did, then I shot clear over it.
Eric_Shea
+1 Wurth. It is paintable.

Below the engine shelf shot with Wurth then painted:
IPB Image

Inside the fenders with Wurth to avoid stone stars, body left bare and both then painted:
IPB Image

Remainder of the underside shot with black Wurth:
IPB Image

Wurth applied prior to painting. Attempting to match the factory seam sealer around the rear sway mounts:
IPB Image
sawtooth
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Feb 7 2011, 11:28 AM) *

+1 Wurth. It is paintable.

Below the engine shelf shot with Wurth then painted:
IPB Image

Inside the fenders with Wurth to avoid stone stars, body left bare and both then painted:
IPB Image

Remainder of the underside shot with black Wurth:
IPB Image

Wurth applied prior to painting. Attempting to match the factory seam sealer around the rear sway mounts:
IPB Image


Wow Eric, that looks good. That's the look I want. So my new procedure would look like this:
1. strip to bare metal
2. seam sealer
3. Wurth
4. Paint


Eric_Shea
We probably have the same Wurth rep. When it comes time to apply, check with your painter (unless that's you) and see if Brian will loan him the gun. He offered to do that for us.
sawtooth
Any other ideas for stripping underside to bare metal? I don't see an acid dip in my car's future, so I'm guessing it will be some endless hours of heavy duty wire wheel and probably some sand blasting. The old undercoat seems to disintegrate like dust so the flat areas should be easy, but getting into all the corners to get the foam and sealer out etc. is going to be fun I'm sure.
sawtooth
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Feb 7 2011, 11:41 AM) *

We probably have the same Wurth rep. When it comes time to apply, check with your painter (unless that's you) and see if Brian will loan him the gun. He offered to do that for us.

Great idea. I'll be doing the under side myself, but hopefully I'll be getting some professional attention on the top side. Might be able to borrow the gun through them.
Thanks!
Eric_Shea
QUOTE
I'm guessing it will be some endless hours of heavy duty wire wheel and probably some sand blasting


Yup... in for a penny, in for a pound they say. If you're contemplating media... just do the entire thing that way. Bear in mind, you'll be chasing media for a while. Also, soda, while awesome on painted metal, probably won't do that great of a job on the rubberized undercoating. So... probably sand.
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