Adjusting my clutch pedal today. Two pictures:

Clutch pedal out (not pushed):

Click to view attachment

Clutch pedal pushed to stop on pedal board:

Click to view attachment

Do these positions look right (besides my plumbing fitting used in place of a stack of washers)? Or should the clutch arm touch the transmission case when the pedal is pushed in?

Quite the opposite ... This looks a bit too close. I'd pull the transmission and shim the arm pivot.

And neither a plumbing fitting nor a stack of washers is the correct way of securing the cable to the arm.
There's a special part that fits nicely into the groove on the clutch arm.

Ok.... let's say I don't want to drop the transmission out .

If that gap lets me shift without grinding gears, I'm OK? In the other direction, what's the best way to check to make sure the clutch isn't slipping when the pedal is "out"?

As per Haynes, you need some free play on the top of the pedal before you feel any resistance ...

Do as Sir Andy says in this case. Believe me he along with a lot of us have been there; this is a place where you do not want any short cuts. Use the special fixture that belongs there; do not use "copper" plumbing fixture since copper is soft and will wear quite rapidly.

You must have free play.

Steve

Do yourself a favor and get the metal trunion....at bottom of the page of the link.....
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca...e_pg1.htm#item4

Those instructions always confused me - enough for me to look at it backwards: adjust the pedal at the "in" position and see if that gives me some free play at the top.

Along those lines, you think I would have more the 3/32" gap if everything were OK in the transmission?

Also, that plumbing fitting has been flattened on the arm end so it fits nicely in the arm "stays" and the wingnut sits in the opposite open end of the fitting as well (looks sorta like the "trunion" just mentioned - which is now added to my PP Project List). Don't get me wrong, in a perfect world I'm going to take a Dr. Evil transmission class and get in there to make everything right - I'd like to drive her a bit first if it's not doing any damage, though.

Information to be found in the link below to my 31 pages of transmission notes.

Dr: So, if my pedal has some free play and begins to disengage in the "green" per your appendix, and doesn't grind when shifting into reverse, then I'm OK with the 3/32" gap (which makes sure I'm not stretching the clutch cable because the pedal board stops the travel before the arm hits the casing)?

What's your thoughts on what the 3/32" gap should be?

The gap is a non-issue as long as your clutch disengages as stated in the appendix (in the green), and you do not grind reverse. Reverse is a good indicator that you are dragging the clutch if it drags.

Oh, and get the right part for your cable

Andy is not wrong, though. You will need to shim the pivot ball next clutch change or sooner. It does not need to hit the case, but you appear to have enough authority over the clutch in current form. Not worth dropping the tranz right now, IMHO.

Update just to close this out (don't like it when I read people's threads and they don't bring them to a conclusion):

Finally understand what the 1/2" of free play at the top of the clutch feels like, and I don't have any reverse gear grinding with the pedal board in and the clutch pedal stop in place. Actually got it into 5th gear for the first time too bad I got there by missing 3rd

Thanks for all the help everyone - don't know how anyone used to fix these cars without a site like this one. Oh yeah, someone bring one of those trunions to Hershey for me to buy.