Well like the topic says does anybody know what flow #'s are on stock 2.0 heads?Thanks in advance.

Here is a graph of a stock 2.0 head Vs our LE 180 2.0 replica heads..

i've never really studied the flow thing much so i'll just ask...
i'm assuming the E/I ratio is exhaust/intake ratio, how do you read that part of the chart & what would you be looking for exactly

Sharp tuners can spend hours drawing data from the flow info posted.
I have a hunch that the ? about flow was posted to satisfy a cam suppliers ?
The intake flow @ .500" lift is ~180CFM The E/I flow ratio at that lift value is ~ 75%.

I only know of one cam designer that cares enough about the end result to ask and he already posted here

Thats past tense.
My program changed last week, now we do the cam selection like everyone else. Six camshafts, each with a three sentence description with a list of applications that it works best in.

Why? because people were wasting lots of my time, didn't know what CR was, and thought that none of the questions on our cam dr. form were important enough to fill in. Details on my forums for those who care.

Well, I have been looking through Jakes cam program so I asked this question trying to figure out which one best fit my application.It's a shame that the ones that would do it right have to pay for the ones that won't.

Glad to hear that you are looking that way..

The cams that work best with the stock 2.0 heads are the 9130 and 9530, but if you have stock EFI set all other considerations aside and run the 9550

The 9530 under application says all small bore motors 1.8-2.1 but under description says 2.0-2.2.Might want to clarify that to avoid confusion.

I've been going through the same thing, trying to decide the right cam for my rebuild, was dissappointed to see Jake had stopped his cam program. Thanks for the info Jake, that helped me make my decision.

i was 1 of the 2 previous posts... not me... just clearing my name

So, jake what do you mean you stopped your cam program? kind of new here but like the other 2 including the originator of this post, i have been trying to understand all of this because it does matter, and i am in the process of starting a rebuild of a 2.0. My education began with making contact with Len( i will be remanufacturing my head with him). from there other sites but mainly the ACT - your site. I would like to have the option of either Stock FI or dual carbs, - on a 2056 with 96mm heads-k.b.- does that mean your 9550 or one of the other cams?

just trying to clarify. Did not mean to hijack, thought it would help others too.
( i tried to post on your site today, could not get it to happen)
You know we appreciate your advice since you have done more work and research in this area than anyone. and if i'm going to replace a cam, i want the right one- im want to get it from you since you have put the time and effort(and yes, free advice!) into helping us out.


phil

I have some 'components' that were purchased from Jake several years ago, before the 2056 'kit' was available ... 96mm KB pistons and a 9580 cam.

I'll be running IDF40's, but was wondering if the 9580 is too aggressive if I did want to run the stock T4 FI system?

Guys..
Lets not hi-jack this thread. If you could not access my forums it may be because you did not finish the registration by clicking the link the site emailed to you. It may also be due to the fact that I just verified a couple hundred registrations a few minutes ago.

The whole cam debacle is a sore spot with me.. I did what was necessary to keep from being married to cam selections forever, and to get orders out the door with less confusion. The next step if this doesn't work would be to stop selling cams all together, which I am prepared to do.

Feel free to make a post on my forums if you'd like, but don't be expecting a recommendation.. The one thats simple is stock EFI, if you have it, just roll with the 9550.

Part of building an engine is component selction, mistakes are costly and heart breaking. Thats the same for all of us.

That said, lets not hi-jack and I appreciate all of your interest in our products.

Its pretty tough to make a cam that does everything well, carbs or stock FI.
If you are keeping the Djet, run the 9550! CR 8to1, 96mm pistons...tune the MPS on a dyno or use a LM1 or 2.

Carbs, pick of several....

Phil,
If you are rebuilding your engine, keep the FI! Set it up as a 2056 with the 9550 cam and you won't believe it once you drive it. 115-120hp and it screams, drives soo smooth and if you tune it correctly 25-30mpg on the highway. Forget a stock six as this setup is sweet.

Ill second that! since we broke the crank on teh 2.4 we have been running the D Jet 2056 with 9550, stock-ish heads set to 8.6 compr
great motor

The 9550 works great with stock FI, but thats what it was developed for in a 914 application. It does not work well at all with carbs in a 914, the RPM is way too narrow.

The best carbbed 914 cam we have for a 914 with less than 2.1 liters, 2.0 heads and around 9:1 CR is the 9530. Time and time again these are good for around 130HP, putting around 100HP of that down to the rear wheels.

Like I said, with stock FI you only have one choice, if you want to have a universal engine for carbs and stock FI you also only have one choice- the RAT 9550.

I don't want to be a thorn in anyones side
I certainly don't want Jake's cam kits to go away
I'm about to need another one (previously went with a F.I cam)

anybody have recommendations for a 1911, mild compression (8.0) with 1.8 heads/valves and carbs...

or put another way: the 9530 sounds great for 2.0 heads, but what about a 914 with smaller valves-heads, and slightly less compression also on carbs.

Brant,

If you are going to order a Raby cam, let me know.
I will be making my order in the next couple of days.
Maybe we can save on shipping?

I think I have decided on the 9530 for a stock 2.0L with dual Weber IDF 40s.
The only thing stopping me from ordering is that I am not positive which rockers I have in the engine that came out.

Next I just need to know what venturi to start with for this setup.
They currently have 28s in them.

On another site I read that we should go 4-5mm smaller than our intake valves. The biggest you can put in a 40 is a 36.

Which one 28 or 36? (or somewhere in between)...

Stu

Stu,

I just paid for a set of 1.8 heads so I'm tapped out financially for a month or two. You had better place your order without me so I don't hold your motor up.

back when we used to run a 2.0/4 race motor I think we ran 32's in it for venturi's. Your going to loose some low end response and it won't be as fun on the street that way. But a tad bit better for high rpm, and as a race motor its a compromise really.

I'm sure others will have good suggestions to add
the bigger those venturi's are the more stumble your going to pick up at lower rpm. You might be able to get away with 34's, but that might be too much also. I doubt that 36's would run for crap below 4500rpm
if your redline was 8, that might not matter... but without special springs and gearing I doubt your going to be bumping your redline up like that.

brant

I have read people getting good daily driver results on a 2.0 with a webcam #86 running dual carbs. One example was a white bug type 4 in some other thread that got 130HP to the rear wheels, with great gas mileage and no overheating issues.

I am goin with a bit larger web cam myself ........ but I will also be running a 71mm counterweighted crank, big valve 2.0 heads, dual springs, HD push rods, 9:1 compression ..... etc ..... etc ...... I will report my results after final engine dyno tuning ...