Ok....so Project Rusty begins in earnest today....I will start a thread as soon as work is completed this weekend...and yes I have pictures of what is possibly the most rusted 914 on the planet....more on that later....

Im working on removing the front suspension as a complete unit....

So far:

Removed master cylinder.
Removed Cover that hides the suspension crossmember.
Removed Fuel Tank.
Removed "clamp on steering column under gas tank".
Removed brake lines that go to front calipers from body brackets.


So all I have to do now is:

1) Remove bolts (4 ea) on torsion bars up front (is it necessary to remove the front valance?).

2) Remove the suspension crossmember bolts (2 ea).

3) Remove two upper strut mount nuts (I know about the tabs that lock the nuts, any easy way to bend these back out of the way?).

4) Remove the 8mm allen bolts surrounding the upper strut mount.

Is there anything else Im forgetting? This is alot of fun...but I should own some stock in PB Blaster...you'll see what I mean when I start posting pics...

Thanks guys, again for all your help.

Steve

The tabs on the strut washers are not that hard to bend down. Though I wound up using a hammer and the screwdriver to do it. I had a friend use a pipe wrench to hold the washer while I broke the nut loose.

Don't forget the steering rack! You either have to separate the ball joints, or remove the tie rods, or unbolt the rack from the body and from the steering column.

--DD

Is the clamp on the top side under the gas tank the only thing that holds the rack to the steering column?

Steve

i wouldnt remove the allens on the top of the strut mount unless your going to do afull alignment afterwards.if you just remove the large nut the strut will come right out. and yes you have to remove the front valence to get to the allens holding on the front torsion bar covers. good luck.

Depends on the front valence. I just did mine without removing it.

Is the clamp on the top side under the gas tank the only thing that holds the rack to the steering column? Already have that removed....

Is there anything under the plastic column cover (the plastic thing that has
"accordian'ed" on one end)?

IF there is not anything else under that cover....Im ready to drop the front suspension

Im hoping I dont have to pull the column yet?

Steve

You need to go inside the car and remove the u-joints from the steering shaft and from the rack shaft.
Both need to be removed and then remove the shaft from the car.
It makes sense when you see it.

Rich

If you pulled the tank and removed the 2 bolts that go through the donut that connects to the top of the steering rack you are good to go on that. You don't need to remove the tierod ends because the rack is bolted to the bottom of the steel crossmember ( 2 -17mm headed bolts )along with the tierods connected to the strut arms and struts.I agree that you dont need to remove the allen bolts on top of struts , remove the nut that's there as mentioned earlier, unless you are stripping the tub, then remove the allen bolts . Take a large screw driver to loosen the whole shubang and get out of the way , gravity works and when you least expect it !!!
You didn't say if you are going to repair the rust , is that your goal ?? Good luck and watch out .

Jack / Jaxdream

Dangit....

I was hoping that I wouldnt have to climb in the car and undo anything steering related yet.....So I have to get those u-joints loose and then it should drop....?

Im gonna wait till I have some help because the car is up on a rotissaire now so climbing in and out is gonna be fun and if everything comes down at once ill need help to get it out from under the car too....

Thanks for your help...

Steve

Pull the plastic accordian cover up off the rack unbolt the bolts , these are what connects the steering column to the rack , then you shoold be able to get the suspension out. The are two bolts that hold the rack to the crossmember you colud remove them to give you some wiggle room on the plastic cover , which has a bearing on it for the shaft that comes off the rack that is what that clamp holds under the fuel tank. If that don't do it then remove the bolt that goes through the first u-joint inside close to the firewall.
Try that .

Jack / Jaxdream

There should be three each up front. 2 17mm on the sides of each front mount and one 7 or 8mm cap/cheesehead under the cover. Depending upon the valance, it may need to be removed to get at that cheesehead. If it's stock, yes.



There should be 2 large 19mm bolts and two more 17mm on the body tabs.



As mentioned earlier, just remove the strut mounts (22 or 24mm depending). Leave the others and your upper bushings will remain in the car.




It can be a pain because you're yanking the R&P with the suspension. Because of the angle with the splines etc. it will act like it doesn't want to come out. You may want to simply remove those 2 17mm bolts on the rack and pull it seperately.

Phase One Complete...

Thanks EVERYONE.....Wooo Hooo...Front Suspension is out.....

I had to buy a 20mm Impact Socket...but otherwise Done and Done....

One last question before I move to Phase Two "Dash, Wire Harnesses and Steering Column Removal"...

I dont have dial calipers handy....so does anyone know the spline count and diameter of the 914 rack and pinion?

Thanks again everybody....as they say....Moving on...

Steve

Alright... I'll bite. What is the 20mm for?

(shocks?)

As weird as this seems....20mm is what actually fit my suspension crossmember....it was enough to make me mad, see most socket or wrench sets stop at 19mm and start again at 21mm....so now I have a shiny new 6 point 20mm impact socket....but its ok...maybe my car is the only one that way....it figures...and thank god for Grainger...LOL

Im kind of enjoying getting back to the car building days...Just hate it when I dont have the right tools and have to wait to finish, but ill get there even if it is slower than I want. Im an old school hot rod guy and "Rusty" is my first real all metric project....

You guys dont know how much I appreciate everyones help...

Steve