Starting my 5 lug conversion.

Have drilled 914/4 hubs and was wondering about the rotors. Can I us the 914-6 rotors with the existing calipers or do I need to drill 914/4 rotors?

Also I am looking at a early 70's 911 SC rear setup, Hubs, rotors and Calipers, also has the control arms and shocks but I am pretty sire I can not use them. Know I need the 911 or 914-6 stub axles, If I get the 911 stub axles are there any modifications needed? Also do the 911 rear calipers bolt up or will there need to ne modifications I know I loose the emergency brake what are the options there.

One front question.

What is the benefit to using a 911 front suspension over a 914 front with drilled front rotors?


Thanks for your help and advice.

Irv

Lots of threads on this in the classics area . Check them out , it can turn into $$$$ quick , but you end up with a good setup depending on what way you go . Also the brake setup depends on how you want to drive it , engine HP is a factor also. Good luck , and most (if not all ) states require an emergency ( mechanical ) brake setup to br street legal. If you are to race the car , not necessary . Wheels dictate narrow body , not a lot of options , or flares , bigger selction of wheels.

Jack / Jaxdream

Will be flared car, for street use.

Granted there are many threads on this topic. I have no direct links handy. A search should find a wealth of information.

Here is a "cliffs notes" version:

Rear: If you drill 914-4 hubs, you can keep your current CV joints and this is the least expensive route. If you want 911 hubs in the rear, you need 914-6 stub axles to mate with 914 CV joints. If you use 911 stub axles, you will need to figure out CV joints and how they will fit on the drive shafts. Can be done, many threads on it and many different ways to go.

Front: The advantages of 911 front end start with the calipers. Larger calipers are available for the vented rotors. 911SC parts are what I recommend. The rotors, pads, bearings, etc are all available at any car parts store and are less expensive than the 914-4 counterparts. The drawback is weight. This setup will weigh more than the stock setup. Another advantage is that you will be using parts you don't need to modify each time you change rotors.



On a budget, I would recommend a 911 SC front end, and find the parts you want for the rear. I went with 911 hubs and stubs to get larger CV joints. I had to make custom axle shafts and source transmission output flanges to use stock 911 CV joints (still available new).


I do have a pair of real 914-6 stub axles, that I would trade for a 914-6 oil tank....


Just my $0.02

Good luck with your project.

Hey Irv!

I do believe the 911 front will have larger diameter torsion bars. Many have blazed the trail here with front and rear conversions. I'm heading out now but if you don't find what you need when I come back I'll see what I can find. Search is sometimes helpful but I always seem to get about a 1/3 of what I'm hunting for.

I would like to know the answer regarding the rear rotors. Is it possible and/or worth it to find a machinist to drill the 4 lug rotors to 5 or just bite the bullet and buy the 914-6 rotors.

Thanks All.

Easier to use 914-6 rotors. About $40 more than -4 rotors but you know they will be done right.

How about the 5-lug Question and Answer Thread?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105728



Either/Or but, these days I recommend the 914-4 rotors machined to 5x130. This is because you need to machine 4mm off the diameter of the very expensive 914-6 rear rotor so... if you have to machine both. Use the less expensive one. Plus, it will still bolt to your drilled 914-4 hubs. The 914-6 rotor will not.



No such animal but, I think I get your drift. If you go with the rear calipers you won't have a handbrake. You could get the handbrake off those arms and modify that to work but, in the end, you'll be in it for about the same amount you would if you found some Ferrari 308 rear calipers.



Modifications? No. You'll just need a pair of Sway-a-Way axles in the 914 Length with the 911 28 spline count. One of my favorite combos because the axles are only $308.00 and they allow the (BIG 911) CV's to float for better torque distribution. And... no adapters to worry about etc.

Try This Thread:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=91963



They will bolt up with 4.5 - 5mm spacers under the mounting ears.



Not me. Those are the heaviest calipers ever made for a 911 and they're basic "off the shelf" european sedan issue (Mercedes, BMW etc.) Our cars are some of the lightest production cars they've ever made. I wouldn't add all of the un/semi-sprung weight to a 914.

I recommend the more nimble 911T strut and the lightest caliper available which is the Brembo aluminum caliper. It has the same piston size as the SC's A-Caliper and the same pad size. It bolts to the 3" spacing and has the same 48mm pistons. Same stopping power minus 10lbs. of assembly line, garden variety caliper. I recently purchased two pairs of these struts in our classifed section for amazing prices.

Check Here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=104276

On a budget or off, I would definately go with the T-Struts and the Brembos.

The rear stuff depends on if you just want to go 5-lug or, if you'll be putting some power to those CV's... read those links.

I probably need to expound upon this one.

The "rotor mounting holes" (2 M6 screws) are in different loactions. The -4 rotor will match the -4 hub. The -6 rear rotor will match the 911 hub, which is what 914-6 models used.

They will both (a modified -4 rotor or a modified -6 rotor) fit but, the -4 mounting holes will work with the -4 hub. The -6 rotor will not. You will need to hold the rotor tight with open ended lug nuts while you set your handbrake venting clearance. After that, the mounting holes don't matter.

Forgot this one... vented rotors.

Drilled rotors are designed to vent gases that can build up under the pad , they don't really cool a rotor. A vented rotor will run much cooler.

That said... 914's generally don't have brake fade issues unless it's operator error.

Thanks Eric that's the information I needed.

Do you still rebuild the 914 rear calipers,as I am doing this I should hace these working as go as possiavle.

I think I understand that...

Yes, we are. Click on the banner in my signature. Happy to help.

E.