Ok, I'm all wired up, fuel lines are all new front to back, exhaust is on. It will not run straight up when starting. However, it will run with some squirts of starter fluid. Here is what I've checked so far:

1. coil is getting power
2. coil lead snaps when grounded and turning over car
3. spark plugs snap when turning over
4. noid light on injectors show it pulsing (used a rigged instrument light..isn't very bright but it does glow on pulsing)
5. fuel pump is getting power and running
6. fuel has made it at least through the 911 fuel filter in the back as when I slightly loosened the connector I got a good spray of fuel in the face!
7. if I use a few squirts of starter fluid it does run

So, it almost appears as if fuel isn't making it through the injectors? I do not smell fuel out of the exhaust. This engnine sat for 5 years after being pulled from an excellent running 911. My next guess is the fuel injectors may be clogged if any fuel was left in the system when it was yanked out? If so, I've not looked into what it takes to remove 911 3.2l injectors...a lot of work?

I'm so close!

btw...i will post exactly how I plumbed the fuel lines from the tank to the engine and where every wire went once it's fully running on it's own.

My 993 injectors were gummed up badly after only a year sitting up. I took them out and cleaned them in a gasoline bath overnight and then put a nine volt battery to them while tapping the base gently... ok, maybe not so gently on my wooden workbench. Don't leave it on there too long, it's more voltage than they actually use as I recall. A six volt battery would probably be better.

When I got a good buzz out of each of them, I installed them and they worked well enough to get the engine started, but the idle didn't smooth out for about 3-4 minutes after the computer adjusted. When it did smooth out it was perfect.

A year later I took them in for a professional cleaning (Bosch certified- Caterpillar dealer) at a fuel injector place nearby. $18 per injector got them cleaned, had the spray patterns and flow rates documented, and got new o-rings in the process.

Assuming there isn't another issue that's my most likely suspect.

Good luck

Could also be the fuel pressure regulator. It might be stuck open, so your fuel pressure is low.

Send those injectors to Mr Injector for cleaning! 5 years is far too long!! Small money very well spent !!

http://www.mrinjector.us/

Thanks all...any instructions on how to remove the injectors before I go back out into the garage and start studying how they are secured/connected?

There is a c-clip like thing that you slide off to remove the injector. And, yes, 3 of mine were stuck after sitting a couple years.

Another possibility is that the inlet and outlet lines are right next to each other - possibly switched.

I would check your fuel pressure first! It might save some stress later! What fuel pump did you install? As I recall those motors take a high fuel pressure!

I didn't reverse the inlet/outlet. The inlet is the factory rubber hose with the curved piece that attaches to the top of the fuel filter. The outlet (return) I plummed a new line direct (used an AN adapter and new line to the return line (also an AN adapter)). I used the 911 fuel pump that came with the motor. Not sure what the pressure is (don't have a pressure gauge) but when I cracked the inlet hose on the top of the fuel filter I got a strong spray of gas from the built up pressure.

Do you have to remove the fuel rails to be able to pull the injectors out?

just went to check on a few other items and thought I'd just turn it over after sitting overnight. It wants to run...the engine slightly "catches" like it's getting teased with a little bit of fuel.....just not enough to sustain itself.

When I pulled my injectors for cleaning, I had to move the fuel rails out of the way and remove the injectors.

So just to clarify you say it runs with a few squirts of starting fluid.

But once you stop with the starting fluid the engine stops.

Or do you just need starting fluid to start it.

Also agree that is way to long on the injectors to sit and do nothing.

yes..it runs straight up with starting fluid. Without starting fluid it will not run. However, when you are starting it (without starter fluid) you can hear the engine catching but just won't take off on it's own.

It does sound like injectors buttt.........

Do you have any vacuum leaks on the throttle body or intake. They are alot of ports on both. Some open holes would prevent it from "natural" starting

Yes unbolt the injector rails from the manifolds (they are shallow 12 point socket heads if I recall), then pull the rail/injectors out of the manifold together as an assembly. Then as was mentioned above, remove the retaining clip off each injector/rail interface ........ then pull the injector straight out and package them for shipment!!! I believe Mr. Injector also replaces the o-rings (included in the cleaning price). When you get them back, they will be ready to install !!

Yes all holes were plugged with vacuum plugs. It's sure smelling like clogged injectors. I should have had them cleaned while the engine was out but I got anxious to get it in and running! I'll have to go out and see what now is all entailed in unbolting the rails from the manifold..from the fuel lines...etc. More fun!

Thought I'd share a few pics at least:

1. top side of engine. And yes the fresh air blower fits and doesn't hit the engine lid. I used the 911 motor with the 914 plastic housing (bolts right on and is smaller then the 911 counterpart). I extended the MAF with a 5" silicone intake hose and fitted the stock air box.
Click to view attachment

2. bottom side of engine. About the only thing noteworthy here are the new aluminum collapsable oil return tubes (no leaking and they sure are of high quality!). GHL headers with heat (pain in the ass to get to most of the nuts) and the GHL 2 in 2 out muffler.
Click to view attachment

Now..to just get it to run on gasoline vs starter fluid!

Looks good !! Is that a factory stock 914-6 muffler to trans mount?

Doesn't look like a stock muffler but looks great!!

Thanks...the muffler hanger is stock, the muffler is a stainless 2 in 2 out from GHL. I have one of the outlets capped for now until I do some more body mods (gt flares, redu of the valences/rockers for the flares...at that time I'll do the 2nd cut out in the valence). Here is another pic of the muffler:
Click to view attachment

Jim,

Beautiful job!!!! You are ever so close so go back over the fundamentals such as any air leaks on the entire air inlet system, vacuum leaks are all capped, fuel pressure (check valve at the pump), injectors, etc.

A bad DME has been known to cause starting problems similar to yours. I remember reading somewhere that a bad DME caused this problem after checking everything out in detail. It is frustrating but solvable. Even go over the wiring changes you have made to ensure the component are functioning correctly.

You can measure the fuel pressure at a port at the end of the fuel rails, BUT be care since there is a ball valve behind the cap cover. DO NOT LOOSE THIS BALL; hard to find replacement and it will not seal without it (fuel pressure???)

It does sound like possible fuel injectors. If you determine it to be a DME problem, I have an extra one that I can send you once we verify the correct part numbers. No cost of DME.

Keep going, Tiger!!! You are almost there.

I have been traveling so i have not been keeping up with developments. I will be picking up the pieces of my car and working on it for the next week or so. We will be traveling after that for the next two to three weeks.

Steve Hurt

My suggestion to you after numerous 3.2 conversions is to swap the two connectors for the flywheel sensors.

I hope that it is this simple for you. I can't count the number of times that this has been the cause of no-start after re-installing these engines.

Try it and see. It really can't hurt.

It sounds like you do have fuel in your fuel rails. The next easy test would be to see if you have spark. You could hook a timing light up to any spark plug wire and see if it flashes. If not, you have no spark. If this is the case, check for voltage at the coil, make sure you have a rotor inside the distributor.

I would also check the gang of ground wires bolted onto the intake manifold. I read once upon a time that this was a potential source of sour running 3.2's.

As always, check the DME relay. One test is to turn on ignition and feel the air bypass valve (yellow can that lets air past the throttle plate to stabilize idle). When the key is on, the can should vibrate.


Good luck with it.

Per John's suggestion I switched the two sensor plugs...that did nothing. The engine turned over with no firing going on. However, when I switch them back I do get some firing..just not enough to sustain itself. I checked the air bypass valve and it does vibrate when the ignition is on. I have spark at the plugs (checked it the old fashion way on pulling a wire and having it spark to a ground point). Noid light in an injector plug does pulse on and off. And it does run on starter fluid. I do not smell fuel at the exhaust...so it is obviously not getting much.....so, the injectors are coming out...ugh!

Ok...before I dove into removing the injectors I thought I'd make sure there was pressure in the rails...slightly loosened the test port (with a bag around it) and plenty of pressure. Next thing I tried grounding the injectors at terminal 14 and 15 to see if I could hear/feel the injectors clicking...no clicking. Put the noid back on and they are getting power as it pulses. So, looks like they are stuck...so I was alittle more aggressive with some light tapping on each injector for about 30 seconds per with it turned off. Then I took the fuse out of the fuel pump and had my son turn it over while I again tapped each injector. I put the fuel pump fuse back in...turned the key and it fired right up! It's been running for about 15 minutes!

So, I'm going to put some techron in it and flush that through some more and address full blown cleaning of the injectors alittle later (after I get the interior back in and the temp/pressure gauges hooked up.

IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!And, by the way, that GHL 2 in 2 out muffler sounds wicked!

I second the kudos to the GHL exhaust, I have a GHL on my 911SC and it is by far the best upgrade I have made to that car, it took it from a 911 to a BEAST.

Vysoc

What an excellent report on an otherwise perfect day in the High Country of Arizona!!! I knew you would get it in a short time frame!! Congratulations and the car simply looks great.

Steve Hurt

Here is a pic of the GHL muffler...I do need to have the other side of the valence cut out...but you get the idea:
Click to view attachment

Awesome job on gettin her started.

Seafoam is also a great thing to run through. In fact you should be some seafoam in and drive over here so I can check it out.

Looks sweet. Congrats on getting it started.

Hope you removed the bungee cord wrapped around the driver side drive shaft.

Congrats, but you still might want to pull the injectors and send them in for cleaning and flow match. After I did that, my 3.2 ran even better, started easier, and idled smoother. Well worth the $ and piece of mind. Plus, one of mine was sticking open and flooding it out in between runs. That may remain a possibility on yours I'd bet.

How about a sound file of that muffler?

Congrats on getting it running!

Just in time for spring.

Happy motoring.

Awesome job Jim! Looks fantastic! BTW what lift is that?

abn....the lift is DANMAR. It is a free-standing 4 lift that runs off of 110 power. Nice thing about the design is it comes with these large coasters that you can attach to each end...lower the lift and the weight of the lift raises it so you can wheel it around (vehicle cannot be on it).