Does the bushing have to be pressed in and out or can it be done with a hammer.

I don't want to screw up the PERFECT shift rod that Eric Shea sent to me!

And THANK YOU again Eric. I'll post a picture when I get the bushing in and the rod installed.

Man, my car is really going to be fast with that power coated shift rod!

Told ya! That's a factory installed shift rod.

The ring in the firewall? Warm in in a cup of water in the microwave, then press it in by hand. If you get most of it in by hand, you can use a hammer to finish the job.

The front coupler is held on with what looks to me like a pin. This pin is what allows the coupler to rotate to the correct angle so that the coupler can slip on the rod that comes out of the fire wall. I need to get that pin out so I can put the front coupler on the new rod I have.

As to the rubber cover for the front, I don't think I've going to run it. Maybe I should as dirt isn't a good thing for shift mechanisms?

I will run the plastic box that covers the rear coupler.

The pin in the universal joint at the firewall is an interference fit into the forward shift rod. Here is one method for removal. Remove the rearward shift rod from the joint(loosen the setscrews), then remove the forward shift rod by unbolting at the shift lever in the car. Take a block of wood and drill a hole slightly larger in diameter than the pin's diameter and about as deep as the length of the pin. Place the shift rod and universal joint casing on its side over this hole and using a drift gently tap the pin out of the shift rod. Don't be too rough or you'll break the joint casting, which means a new joint. Once the pin is out, clean everything and put in new bushings. Place on the shift rod and drive the pin back in, gently. You should be good to go.

Me think you have front and back rods inverted.

At least for late model side shift.

aft rod has the coupler. the pin is pretty much held in place with the two plastic bushings and a slight interference fit of the pin in the rod end.

the forward rod inside the tunnel is a straight rod and will pull right out the back if you disconnect the shift handle.

Joe, Thanks. You are correct. As you stated, the universal joint is pinned to the rear rod, not the front rod. It slips on the front rod and is held by a tapered set screw.

When I wrote my earlier description I took a moment to look at the gearshift linkage illustration in the Haynes manual. I had even replaced the bushings in my universal joint not so long ago. And I still screwed up my instructions!

Thanks for the information.

I got that pin out, much as you described - and it came out unharmed. The front U joint and pin are now on my shiny new shift rod.

Thanks again Eric.