The bolt connecting the right rear trunk hinge sheared off..... I can either attempt to drill out the broken bolt (sunk rather deep) or install the J West "rear Trunk Pivot Kit".

Has anyone used this kit?

The cost to me would be about double what it would cost me to purchase a good drill kit to remove the broken bolt..... although no guarantee I will be able to remove the broken bolt without causing damage ( it would be my first time extracting a broken bolt).

Please let me know your experience.

Cheers!

The JWest kit is good, and yes a lot of people here have used it.
I enjoy fabrication and welding, so I repaired my own.
Depends on what kind of repairs you like to do.

Rand -

Thank you for the opinion.

I would like nothing more than to tackle this repair - I have pulled the motor myself, etc. But my skills are linited..... this is a repair that I want to have a high success rate completing. A smooth-moving rear trunk is essential. Un-smooth rear hinge would drive me mad each time I open the trunk.

Knowing that the kit has been used successfully by fellow-members, I will go this route and get my car functioning ASAP and back on the road.

Cheers!

If the hinge is not torn away from the body, there are two things I would do (and have done)

1.) Buy a drill, center punch and extractor. Pull the remaining portion of the bolt out. If any portion is sticking out, you might be able to cut a slot in it with a screwdriver and turn it out.

2.) Ditch the lousy torsion bars and buy a gas shock kit from Camp914 or ??. This eliminates the stress on the mounts from the torsion bars and makes a really smooth opening trunk.

Just my opinion ....................

Don't forget to use plenty of PB Blaster.

I had this problem also but decided to fix it. The pivot bolt had broken at some time so some shop, drilled and tapped what was left of the bolt and of all things tapped it to some domestic threaded POS small bolt. How it ever lasted as long it did is amazing. Anyway, i drilled it a couple of times to try and save the original threads and then used an extractor. It actually worked quite well and took out the paper thin (by now) original bolt. Threaded in the new bolt and it seems to be fine. Original threads were not damaged and still sharp. I do think i got lucky!!!!

You could also carefuly weld a nut onto what's left of the stud. The heat will help break things free. Seems like I've used this trick a lot lately to free stuck fasteners.

I had the pivot point tear off and the hinge for the engine compartment lid. Welded both back and went with the Camp 914 rear shock program and threw the torsion bars in storage. Everything is back to normal and the rear lid closes perfect.


Vysoc

when I bought my 914, the left pivot was already detached, so the JWest kit was one of teh first things I bought...oh how the list has grown!

I recently replace the right side as the engine was already out, and it was starting to rust off of the car anyways...just a matter of time until it snapped. I'm very happy with the kit. Since yours is in place, you can get the location of the pivot center point, then you just line up the JWest part and drill some holes...very easy, and it has some adjustment in it, so you can get your trunk just right.

The total pain in the butt is getting the torsion bars on / off...be careful or you will break fingers. there are threads on this site about building tools to help. I had a large box wrench that I used for this, made it a doable job,...but still challenging.

To remove torsion bars, I wrap them with rope in two places about 5" apart. I then use a grinding wheel to cut through them between the rope wraps ... never had a problem.

Thanks to all. I will attempt to extract the broken bolt. If that works out, I will replace bolt and add Camp shocks.

Sounds like a plan!

Cheers!

That's a great idea! I noticed my bolt has sheared off the passenger side. The pivots had been replaced (or just rewelded) at some point in the cars history. Welding is fun fire...fire...fire

I give the F up!

I'm been gearing up to tackle the broken hinge problem for A LONG TIME.
I cannot get the stupid bar off of the roller. trunk down, half way, up, etc. I've tried the box wrench idea to slip it on (actually using a brake flare wrench) push down and around... I cannot get that thing to budge and I'm putting all my weight into it.
I tried the 'just pry it off the wheel and let it fly' method and all I end up doing is bending tools and denting my sheet metal.

I've got the battery out, but the trunk lid still on. I don't think I should need to remove that.

I'm not opposed to just cutting the things etc but I've heard horror stories about skin, glass, drywall, etc getting busted. I understand people suggest going to the gas shocks but I can't even get the f-ing torsion bar off the roller!

Any bright ideas?

Nevermind! I got it off by prying between the roller and the hinge. The bar came with the roller.

Only put three nicks in my paint (with a towel) ARG!!!