Ok got the car on 4 jackstands, and have the jack under the back to correctly close in the door gaps. Got them perfect, so now what?
How much cross brace and from what points? Seem like just door bars is not enough should I not cross diagonal across the cabin as well?
Pics appreciated.
Full Version: Ok door Gaps are correct, Now what?
QUOTE(texag09 @ Mar 28 2011, 05:00 PM) 
Ok got the car on 4 jackstands, and have the jack under the back to correctly close in the door gaps. Got them perfect, so now what?
How much cross brace and from what points? Seem like just door bars is not enough should I not cross diagonal across the cabin as well?
Pics appreciated.
What technique did you use to close the Gap? I have the same issue . I am off a bit.
Look at this thread for braces....
www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=47726
And/or buy them from Chris @ tangerineracing.com (Post #10 in the thread above shows what they look like).
www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=47726
And/or buy them from Chris @ tangerineracing.com (Post #10 in the thread above shows what they look like).
Well I might have gone a little crazy with welder and angle iron, but i dont think its going to move.
To close the door gap i placed two jack stands on the front donuts and two jack stands on the suspension consoles in the back. I placed my jack under the transmision mounts and placed a 2x4 across and jacked it up to apply a little pressure then heated the longs under the door and adjusted till it was even.
Now I have welded up supports and remeasured. Didnt trust just the door bars so i cross braced down to the longs. (might have got a little weld crazy its been a while and imissed welding. )
To close the door gap i placed two jack stands on the front donuts and two jack stands on the suspension consoles in the back. I placed my jack under the transmision mounts and placed a 2x4 across and jacked it up to apply a little pressure then heated the longs under the door and adjusted till it was even.
Now I have welded up supports and remeasured. Didnt trust just the door bars so i cross braced down to the longs. (might have got a little weld crazy its been a while and imissed welding. )
You installing the Engman kit across the lower back wall and the inside longs ??? You will have to remove some of your bracing won't you ???
Jack / Jaxdream
Jack / Jaxdream
Should have specified, the hell hole kit not the longs kit. (but with the longs kit I believe you are corect)
For some reason I do not trust repairing the longs in the hell hole area with just door bars. Not that it cant and hasnt been done, but better safe than sorry, I wanted to tie it in to the longs with a large bearing surface and also lateraly cross brace just to be sure. More time now less later. Plus I am still waiting on my CV joint tool to remove the motor.
Here is the list in order.
1. outside and bottom of pasneger long
2. Engman Hell Hole Kit
3. Bottom of firewall and / Rear floor pan
Then I plan on driving the car for about 12 months as i collect funds for a roll cage and big iv motor. At that point I might install the longs kit with the roll bar but might be redundant as the roll bar should stiffen the car fairly well.
For some reason I do not trust repairing the longs in the hell hole area with just door bars. Not that it cant and hasnt been done, but better safe than sorry, I wanted to tie it in to the longs with a large bearing surface and also lateraly cross brace just to be sure. More time now less later. Plus I am still waiting on my CV joint tool to remove the motor.
Here is the list in order.
1. outside and bottom of pasneger long
2. Engman Hell Hole Kit
3. Bottom of firewall and / Rear floor pan
Then I plan on driving the car for about 12 months as i collect funds for a roll cage and big iv motor. At that point I might install the longs kit with the roll bar but might be redundant as the roll bar should stiffen the car fairly well.
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