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7391420
Just curious,

If G-forbid, my 4 blows up one day....

what would it cost to slap a 6 in there? I wouldn't do this my self, but if I wanted a 3.0 sc motor or a 3.2, nothing to wild, just a reliable daily...

I'd definitly up-grade the brakes...

what would this run? 5-6K more.....
JmuRiz
If it 'only' ran about $5k I think most people here would have a 6. From the estimates I have heard a complete 6 conversion is more in the $10k range. Do a search on conversions, I think someone was asking about it a month or so ago. People that have done it and have the receipts please pipe up. I know do redo all my brakes (5-bolt and upgrade), suspension and tranny rebuild was more like $5k...so now I'm ready for an engine upgrade, just can't afford it yet. My 2.0 is runnin just fine anyway clap56.gif
TheCabinetmaker
This has been discussed here many times. If you do a search, you'll find this among others

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...conversion+cost
theol00
I just purchased a good running engine including Webers - and ordered the parts to install the engine in the car (motor mounts, headers, tin, oiltank, 911 tach, linkages, adaptors, clutch and cluch parts and so on - (not including brakes and 5 lug wheel conversion parts) - so far only the parts are over $5K
JmuRiz
theol00: That actually sounds pretty good! If you can install it yourself or with the help of a club member near you, you are doing it for a nice price. You can do a lot cheaper 5-bolt/brake mod than I did BTW, don't let my prices scare you off from suspension and brake upgrades! Post some pics, BTW what size engine/carbs?
theol00
Nathan - thanks for your comment - I got a slightly hopped up 911E spec 2.2 ltr (160 to165 hp) motor with 40 IDTP Webers - the base car is a very clean 1970 914 . I got a set of 15x6 Fuchs Wheels and still working on the brakes and suspension parts. I will take some pics and publish them within the next few days.
I choose the 2.2 motor because it offers potential migration to a 2.4 or even 2.7 with up to 200 + horsies without too much trouble. The price was right and the motor comes from a very good Porsche racing shop that I trust. In the end I hope to have a car that I can drive on the street, vintage race and time trial without having to trailer it.
I really don't like the hussle of having to deal with trailers and tow vehicles and I think a car up to 200 hp is eminently streetable.

smilie_flagge6.gif smilie_flagge24.gif
treemn
The cost is relative to how much of the work you can do yourself. After a couple years of collecting parts I finished
up with a fresh 3.0 with Motronic & heat for 5K.Already had
5 bolt/brake upgrade. Best time to buy your parts is Dec. 26
through April 15!
Jeff
anthony
Wow, you must have scored some good deals on the parts. Brad's parts list he's posted many times is about $4K just for the conversion parts plus the cost of the engine plus any labor for installation you can't do yourself.

So what is the going rate on a low mileage 3L or 3.2L motor these days?
ppickerell
I have been seeing ads for these guys on Craigslist searching for 914's. They seem to have many motors floating around.

www.born2bfast.com
Brad Roberts
Yes. I tell people 10k. The price of oil tanks and lines keep going up. I dont use the aftermarket tanks.. so you wont get anything out of me that isnt factory. I dont use the cross bar mounts...and I typically wont install anything less than a 3.0. Call me what you will.. but spending money on a anemic 2.0-2.4 6cyl engine is a waste of time unless you are class limited by engine size. You wont get much more out of 2.0-2.4 6cyl than you would out a nicely prepped 2.4 4 cyl engine (besides the cool factor of having a 6cyl laugh.gif )

You can take your time and battle Ebay people and collect parts over time.. but you might only save 500-800$ over a 2 year period.


B
treemn
"Wow, you must have scored some good deals on the parts."
As we have all heard before, buy someone elses' project. I just bought their parts. At this point I doubt you'll find a "low mile"
3.0,the newest is ~22 years old & pretty much guaranteed to
be a leaker regardless of how it runs.Mine was a 100K oil caked refugee from a 3.6 conversion -cost me $2500.The top end rebuild parts were covered by the sale of the 4.

Jeff
theol00
Brad - Interesting opinion on the displacement - a stock 2.4 911 S delivers 190 hp and is a reliable fast motor - I am not sure if you get the same hp and reliablility out of a 4 - $10K on a complete conversion incl brakes and wheels is in the ballpark.
Brad Roberts
Finding a stock 2.4S engine in good shape is harder to find than a 3.0 in decent shape. I agree the 2.4S engine is sweet but torque sells people. The push in the seat is hard to get from a RPM motor.

B
theol00
I agree on the push and the torque - just love to hear that old chainsaw whine!
treemn
Brad-
Any update on the c/f oil tank?

Jeff
IronHillRestorations
QUOTE(treemn @ May 6 2004, 04:11 PM)
I finishedup with a fresh 3.0 with Motronic & heat for 5K.

I didn't know you could put Motronic on a 3.0! Shows you how far out in the woods I live!

$10k, yea if that's all you have to do to the car. Most of the time you get into ALA. ALA= As Long As. Which means as long as we're doing the conversion, lets put in a chassis stiffening kit, and the Brad Mayeur chassis kit, oh and since we don't want all that new HP to end up as inside wheel spin let's totally rebuild the tranny with a limited slip, and paint the engine bay, and move the fuel pump, and a rear lid strut kit, and powder coat all that stuff that we were going to just paint, and on and on.

The job I just finished, which had alot more than the list above, was a little over $18k all said and done; parts and labor, and the guy got a decent deal on the engine $3200 for a 2.7 build up on a 2.4S (with real RS pistons and solex cams).

PK cool.gif
siverson
QUOTE
$10k, yea if that's all you have to do to the car. Most of the time you get into ALA. ALA= As Long As. Which means as long as we're doing the conversion, lets put in a chassis stiffening kit, and the Brad Mayeur chassis kit, oh and since we don't want all that new HP to end up as inside wheel spin let's totally rebuild the tranny with a limited slip, and paint the engine bay, and move the fuel pump, and a rear lid strut kit, and powder coat all that stuff that we were going to just paint, and on and on. The job I just finished, which had alot more than the list above, was a little over $18k all said and done; parts and labor, and the guy got a decent deal on the engine $3200 for a 2.7 build up on a 2.4S (with real RS pistons and solex cams).


Exactly, and that's why I don't see why it makes sense to do anything smaller than a 3.6. The 3.6 is such a newer/nicer motor than the 3.0s or 3.2s, and it's just $2k-$3k more. $18k for a nice 2.7, or $21k for a nice 3.6 - and those two engines are worlds apart.

Now I'm just pissed I didn't use 3.8 piston/cylinders on my rebuild. smile.gif Ha! See what this does to you!

-Steve
campbellcj
QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ May 6 2004, 07:25 PM)
Finding a stock 2.4S engine in good shape is harder to find than a 3.0 in decent shape. I agree the 2.4S engine is sweet but torque sells people. The push in the seat is hard to get from a RPM motor.

B

YUP.

a REAL 2.4S with MFI and in perfect shape is big bucks now; more in fact than most of the 3.x motors. I have seen $8500 asking prices. The R-Gruppe and KlubSport crazes have really driven prices up for the early S and MFI stuff.

My car will probably be getting something between a 2.5 and 3.0 race build at some point when I am "ready" to bump classes, skill and budget wise.

The early small motors are TONS of fun, reliable (esp compared to hotrodded 914-4's), and sound exquisite, but when it comes down to it, compared to even our modern daily-driver type cars, they are really not "fast".
Joe Bob
I'm about 8K into a conversion total....but I got the chassis CHEAP..... already five lugged, Carrera braked, chassis stiffened, and such.....the motor is a 2.0 "S" with a rated 180 hp......

I build my own lines using AN conversion fittings and aircraft braided hose. This will be my fourth conversion.....the last three have been been with abandoned projects.....WAY cheaper than doing it all with MY money...... mueba.gif
Brad Roberts
I love the RPM motors.. but ....

Perry,

You'll stop using the BM kits when you see our new ones...they are AWESOME and they go INSIDE the car on the actual frame rail and NOT on the outside cover of the frame rail. They are 3 pieces and wrap all the way around tying everything together (and it all fits under your carpet).



B
iiibdsiil
I am starting to see that I didn't pay too much for my car. It would have cost me the same, if not more to build myself. And I would have had to go through the headaches of making it work, and getting all the pieces together.

What is a 3.2 going for these days? Complete with ecu.

- Brett Smith
Brad Roberts
Common price for a 3.2 with brain/harness is around 5500$-6000$ Most of them with over 125k miles on them need top end rebuilds. They are notorius for smoking at startup with bad valve guides.


B
JmuRiz
QUOTE
You'll stop using the BM kits when you see our new ones...they are AWESOME and they go INSIDE the car on the actual frame rail and NOT on the outside cover of the frame rail. They are 3 pieces and wrap all the way around tying everything together (and it all fits under your carpet).


Ok Brad, you can't go talking about something and not give us some pictures/info/impressions on how it is. biggrin.gif I want to know, nice to get an idea in your head of what you want before you actually go out and get it. So your Long-stiff kit and the wheel well kit...that'd tighten things up a lot right?
seanery
there are pics of it floating around here. Can't remember where.
pcar_914_6
I'd guess between $18,000 and $25,000 based on the following stuff.

- 3.6L engine (naturally aspirated) with headers, SuperTrapps and K&N
- rebuilt 901 with synthetic hypoid
- Huge oil cooler and -12 / -16AN Aeroquip plumbing with sheet metal work
- 15 gallon fuel cell, -8AN Aeroquip plumbing and appropriate pumps/filters
- Big brakes, 911 front struts and rotors
- 23mm master cylinder / Adjustable proportioning valve
- Proper seats and safety gear
- 11# Halon fire-suppression system (Three nozzles)

I'm sure I forgot something but that's the idea. Fun perpetual project!

Later,
Ron
pcar_914_6
Sorry.. only one image at a time heh?
#2
Brad Roberts
Hum.. havent heard from the CF guy in quite some time.. I'll call him.

I'll start another thread this weekend showing the NEW stiff pieces. I need to shoot pics of them in a bare tub.

B
ber914
Brad

I am currently redoing a 914-6 conversion that I have just bought. The engine and box both need to be rebuilt. I am trying to decide between rebuilding the existing motor which is an original 914-6 with 2.7 RS pistons and sleeves giving a low compression 2.5 motor or putting in a 3.0 carrera motor with the Webers from the existing motor which makes for an easy instalation. This would also leave lots on the table for future power upgrades - 3.2 high comp p/c, twin plug, cams e.t.c.
Does the gearbox not prove to be problematic when using it with higher displacement motors and the resultant higher torques? What should I look at doing to help with this while I have the box apart for new synchros, dogs and sliders?

Robert
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