Hi All,
I was thinking of using a hi-temp marine paint in the engine compartment. A friend suggested using Por15 instead. Which would be a better application???

Por 15 would be fine. The engine bay doesnt get that hot(I dont think). At least use it on any rust, and the battery tray area.
Just cheap insurance for any rust prone area's.

Andrew

Im in orange county and I need some por 15. Has anyone looked into the cheapest places to get it? I dont really mind paying the S+H, whatevers the cheapest to my door.

I have a quick question on this stuff that's not totally clear from the FAQ on POR15.com...

I have bad paint and surfuce rust around the brake reservoir that I need to take care of....

It sounds like I need to use a wire brush or something to get down to just about bare metal before I paint on the POR15. Correct? Can I then sand it down pretty smooth before I top coat it with matching paint?

If there is also brake fluid/residue down there, you need to clean that off, use brake cleaner, if not and the rust isn't too bad, you can por 15 right over it all, may not be pretty but it'll hold up.

I just finished painting on the POR-15 on my engine bay yesterday. The PO had glued the sound pad back on the firewall and it was awful. POR-15's stripper removed the glue and showed surface rust under the paint had started. I also had rust in the wells under the realy panel on the left side around where the engine lid release cable exits and the around and below the battery on top of where the fuel pump. I strip all this, wire brushed it, and went over all the engine compartment with a grey scuff pad. Used their metal prep and then the silver type rust paint as they advertised it had more fill properties. I was a little leary of the brushing on but fiqured I could wet sand and top coat with semi-gloss black as I want most of the attention on the new six and not the hole it lives in. The stuff worked great as desribed. Brushing technigue took some mastering but it turned out good. The silver looks almost to good to top coat but still going semi gloss black. I bought the product through the company and they were great to deal with. Now thinking about spraying the new 911 SC front suspension with the silver POR-15 instead of powder coating. Would be much cheaper. Anyone have any feedback on that idea?

Very Cool!!! I bought the six pack at http://www.prp-porstore.com/.
Should delivery in a few days. I'll take some pics before and after.

Sounds like a great idea. I wouldn't use regular Por-15 though since it's UV senstive. I would finish it off with one of the Por-15 paints or Chassis top-coat, or their Stirling Silver product if you want silver.

The techs at POR-15 said that I woudln't even have to top coat the engine compartment because it wasn't going to be hit with direct UV rays. I figure if I could get by with it there with no top coat surely the suspension would be safe. Besides, if I'm getting direct sun light to the suspension, UV rays are going to be least of the my worries.

So what happens to Por15 when UV hits it? Does it just turn color or does it degrade?

A friend painted his tailgate on his old truck with POR15 gloss black over 2 years ago and it still looks good, its suppost to fade and lose its shine.
I've used it on several car frames and suspension parts with great success. it adheres best to a clean rusty surface there is no need to remove the rust, just wire brush the loose stuff off, it will never return to the painted area.

The picture is the front frame rails on a 67 Chevelle I restored, they where wire brushed and painted with POR 15 chassis black

Do you guys spray it with a touch up gun? Will brushing work? Im thinking it will be a major pain to spray in the engine bay, and brushing will be much easier. Finish isnt that much of a concern for me, as long as it looks pretty good. And, has anyone used gloss black versus semi-gloss black? Im thinking sg would look better, but if its more difficult to spread I might have to settle for gloss.

POR15 acts much more like a paint than other rust inhibitors. If the color isn't ideal for your application you could also try SEM's Rust Mort. It's a fvorite in body/resoration shops. It's available at paint suppliers and is every bit as pricy. The great thing about this stuff is it actually chemically bonds to the rusty metal and is meant to be topcoated, whereas POR15 can be left alone. Ideally, you apply the inhibitor, seal that with some primer sealer and finally topcoat it with the color of choice. At any rate the temp. in the engine bay should be fine for a good paint, even for the hottest running porsches.

Just brush it on its self leveling, the frame rails in my picture were brushed.
PS buy cheap brushes that you can just throw away don't get it on your hands, floor. or anyplace you don't want it forever....

The chassis black is shiney...see pic...

brushing it on works fine, and ditto that last one....wear gloves and dont get it on anything that you dont want it on....because it's a pain to get off....ask me how i know...